Amazon affiliate links below to products and tools I use in the video (or talk about) below. (I wasn’t sponsored to make this video by any product or company, but if you go to Amazon from one of these links and end up making a purchase, I’ll get a commission from Amazon on the sale. No extra cost to you.) -Pete
Vacuum caps: https://amzn.to/2JU6MYg (Toyota hard lines are generally 3/16″ (4.75mm) in diameter. You should be able to just go to a local auto parts store and get some, but if you can’t, this assorted pack on Amazon should get the job done.)
Flare nut wrenches: https://amzn.to/2HN7QLV (You may want to look around and get a bigger set that will have the larger sizes you will need to work on the power steering high pressure lines also. Just thinking ahead.)
Mity-Vac testing and bleeding system: https://amzn.to/2HPbtAG
Multi-pack of wire detailing brushes: https://amzn.to/2U7OYxG (You can’t have enough of these laying around the shop.)
Toyota FSM = Toyota Factory Service Manual
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Great job Pete – well sorted and planned out.
Good video.
I was bleeding the clutch on my 94 pickup for hours before noticing that my clutch fork had cracked. Perfect timing for a new clutch and rear main seal!
I had to replace both the master and slave clutch cylinders. Once things warmup I could not shift, there was no external leakage and no drop in fluid. But we later found out that the fluid leak from one region to another internally.
Great video! I had to do this two years ago on my 84 along with the master. If your short solid line to your slave is buggered or you just want to get rid of it, you can eliminate the hard line by using a braided stainless rear break line straight from the firewall to the slave.