In today’s quick video, I show you guys the difference between the newer plastic timing chain tensioners and the older cast iron design. I explain why I always choose to retrofit the plastic with the steel anytime I have the timing cover off. Thanks for watching! Please Subscribe!
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Melling BT402 Stock Replacement Timing Chain Tensioner LH side
Check it out here! https://amzn.to/3gQ43NP
Melling BT403 Stock Replacement Timing Chain Tensioner RH side
Check it out here! https://amzn.to/3mQSycs
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Advanced Level Auto, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Advanced Level Auto assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Advanced Level Auto recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Advanced Level Auto, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Advanced Level Auto.
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Plastic tensioners, plastic parts of all sorts that weren’t meant to ever be put inside eternal combustion engines. I wonder these modern marvel fell relentlessly to the point where it’s just not worth it.
I found some closeout Melling parts and got all of it here for about $100. And what I've found is the Melling tensioner arms are really no better quality than some cheap Chinese arms that I ordered in a kit just because I got some other pieces that I already knew were just as good as factory for $.04 on the dollar. The only difference is the color of the nylon. Melling was the factory supplier on my year make and model. It's just unfortunate Ford used the plastic tensioners from ~02 up (except for 03). I got those in the closeout kit. They're much nicer quality than the plastic tensioners. I've read several times the difference between the "Ford" and the Melling is Melling machines off the factory part numbers. I can see the factory numbers on my Melling tensioners. Just another couple seconds on the machine and they would have been gone. Unless you have VVT or there's hundreds of thousands of miles (in excess of 300,000) you probably won't need to replace the chains. You will not be getting as good quality if you listen to bad advice and change them anyway. The rubber gaskets are the same as the guides. There's about 6 levels of prices but one level of quality. The most difficult part of this whole job will be getting your harmonic balancer bolt out. That and working anyway even though you smacked your hand good with the pry bar.
Interesting ford tech makeuloco recommends the plastic ones because he says the ratcheting part can stretch the chain
What state do you work out of?
Would this be ideal for the crown victoria police interceptor?
Can you use the Melling timing chains, guides, and phasers though?
Old style cast iron stretched my chains before 50k
Replaced with an updated plastic tensioner and engine is so much quieter, no more chain slapping around it won't have to be replaced in 50k.
Thanks so much!!!
Rockauto has a deal going atm where you can get the timing chains, tensioners guide, guides, and the cast iron tensioners for about $120. It's for some closeout event. Mine arrived yesterday.
Anybody done an old style chain guides conversion to rid the plastic crap?
Always cutting corners with cheaper parts that come in a new kit to save a few bucks? The Junk Parts will bite you in the Ass every time!
There is also problems with steel tensioners
Thank you for the advice.
Looks like junk
Did any Crown Vics come from the factory with iron tensioners?
Makuloco recently changed his stance on the old metal ratcheting tensioners. He now says that the newer plastic non ratcheting ones are the better design.
Would this be applicable to a 4.6l 3 valve engine as well?
The biggest way to bulletproof a modular engine is to replace all the plastic parts. They’re already an extremely tough engine, but get everything made from aluminum and cast iron, and it’d probably be the most bulletproof Ford engine in existence.
That what i used
Yeah, if you want to stretch your chains and premature wear from the Ratcheting mechanism in them.
Always steel tensoners doing my 5.4 3 valve. plastic makes no sense to me, yes pulled the oil pan on expedition (BEAR) for the broken guides.