This is a video I made to help people with replacing a camshaft synchronizer, this is the first real how to video I’ve made, comment with questions at the en…
This is a video I made to help people with replacing a camshaft synchronizer, this is the first real how to video I’ve made, comment with questions at the en…
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Thanks got the part at Advanced for $38.50… My father and I are going to
replace it this weekend!!
Thanks for the video, I followed your instructions and had the job done in
less than an hour and much cheaper than a dealership. Kudos!
I took it out again next morning and put it in again. no oil light “on”
yeah. What else i noted is my camshaft synchronizer had a grease fitting on
the side. the new one i got didn’t have the grease fitting but it did have
a hole in same place as the original one to have a fitting screwed in but
it was blocked off from screwing into it.
Thanks for posting this. I just did this on our ’00 this morning. Hardest
part was finding a store that had a 5.5mm socket for the cam sensor bolts,
as I had misplaced mine. Car runs great and is now quiet as a mouse.
I am just wondering if I should replace the sensor also?
i put in camshaft synchronizer today. all went well for awhile. the timing
is good. but now the oil light is on. i ran for a minute or two and turned
off. when taking old one out. i looked in hole and saw what looked the oil
pump shaft sitting straight up as should. does the shaft move out of its
place when pulling out synchronizer? What could have happened. what do i
look for
Nice video. Will save me >$300!
that’s awesome
Did mine this morning, did it just as you did and it went without a hitch.
1.5 hours total and saved a bunch of money. Thanks for the share
sorry, I never replied, I guess by now you have got this taken care
of….but the wire harness, you just don’t need to be scared of breaking
the plastic, there is just no easy way
glad I could help
Many thanks for posting this video. I just swapped out my synchronizer and
the information you provided saved me a heap of time. In addition to the
squeaking, I was having significant acceleration problems and replacing
this part solved the problem. It runs like a new car. Thanks again!
quick question im having trouble getting the wiring harness pulled back as
far as you have it. Also do I have to remove that radiator hose that blocks
the bolt that holds the camshaft sync assemble down thats below the cp
sensor? My cars in pieces in the parking garage at school trying to fix it.
I was getting low oil pressure at idle since the cam sync drives the oil
pump.
thanks man great vid, i have a bad cps on my 03 sable. helped save me a lot
of money much appreciated.
The only additional suggestion I would make is taking pictures with a
digital camera of the position of the inside rotating cam on the camshaft
synchronizer before, and after, removal. Since the inside cam and outside
chassis rotate during removal and installation, pictures on a digital
camera are essential without the installation kit or tool. My wiring
harness had a plastic tray, and your suggestion of tieing it back was very
helpful!
Great Job, clear explination. I have the same trouble with my 06 Taurus.
Will do the job this weekend. Thanks so much for the help!
Thank you for this video,, HELPED ME ALOT!!
@thorfoxxx you install it in line with the engine, arrow on tool pointing
toward driver fender then rotate, but I’m not sure about the degrees on a
ranger, if it;s the exact same engine as the 02 taurus then it’s probably
the same when you look at your engine size on autozone website do you
select the Vin U engine?
yes it s the same, i have done this on both 02, and 03 should be the same
on any engine with this part in it, sorry it took so long for me to
respond, you comments had been flagged as spam so I never saw them until
today
Great video, Ima try it the same way to see if the check engines light goes
off once I replace camshaft
glad I could help you!!
the new part I ordered actually came with the alignment tool but I didn’t
use it because I wasn’t putting the engine in TDC
mine started doing this two days ago. then today i went to start the car
and it would shut off after 30 seconds of running. ive got the part on
order but im worried about it shutting off
Thanks for the video. It really helped with the replacement. However, I
wish that you had shown us what you do to get the wire harness out of the
way as it took a bit of trial and error to figure out something to do.
It sure helps to get all that stuff out of the way. Im a mechanic and all i
do is remove the spark plug wire retainer, dont even unhook the wires, and
take that one hose off.
hmmm, the one I did in this video didn’t go back into perfect alignment, it
wasn’t off by much, only a fraction off, but there must be a threshold or
small tolerance you can be off because this car is still running fine and I
did this repair over a year ago and the first car I learned how to do this
on was done 5 years ago and still going strong as well, but as for TDC I’m
not you man, I’ll be no help for you there
Hey man so, u said AS you are removing the old cam sync out, the finger
thing inside will rotate. So when i put the NEW cam sync back in, do i move
the finger thing at the exact same location as the old one as it was pulled
off? Or the location before it moved a little when u pulled it out?
Did my 03 Taurus yesterday. Very easy swap thanks to your video. Thanks!
put in in the position it ended up in after you pulled it out, so when you
put the new one back in it will rotate back into the original position the
old one was in before you removed it, so if it started in the 1o’clock
position and you pull it out and it moves to the 3o’clock position, put the
new one in the 3o’clock so it will rotate back into the 1o’clock when the
gears line up on the inside, the one in this video didn’t end up precisely
but was very close and took several tries
@gygahurtz i might also add that when i went to turn the gear on the
synchronizer itself it felt like it was sticking too. it would turn
slightly then turn easy then it wold get alot of resistance.
@ThePigfat123 Awesome man, I also cracked the the plastic on the wiring
harness, I suppose you don’t have to remove all of that but it gave me so
much more room to work, and even thought I’ve done this before, it still
took me about 2.5 hours, By the way, I made this whole video with my cell
phone, not too bad huh?
my method doesn’t require putting #1 in TDC, this video is how to replace
it without using the TDC method. If you don’t know what position it was in
before removing it, then you will have no choice but the TDC method, which
is much more complicated as far as I’m concerned. Just take many pics of
the original before removing it so you don’t forget the position, good luck
Awesome, I am about to do this on my 98 mustang and I was nervous because I
heard about needing to line it up perfectly. Doesnt look that bad! Only
concern i still have is, ive also heard that you need to put you #1 piston
at 10 degrees ATDC? I have no idea what that means or how to do it 😮
Thanks, this is actually the first video I’ve ever made…hope it helped
you out
thank you ! good video, thanks to you i was able to fix my car.
@mxpxpunkrock1987 sorry man I can’t help you on that one, I’ve never had to
mess with the timing on any vehicle, But from what I’ve read about these
syncs the repair manual says to set the #1 cylinder in top dead center and
using an sync alignment tool you have to rotate the sync 30 degrees from
the center line of the engine in order to get the timing back to normal.
that sounds way too complicated to me, that’s why once you remove the sync
just put the new one back in the the old one came out
You did a good job for keeping this simple and to the point, understandable
to anyone in layman terms. I just replaced my synchronizer after watching
your video, but I had watched a different video prior to today as well. If
I had just watched yours, I would have been able to do it too. So good job
and thanks!
glad I could help,
Good job. I suggest using a tripod next time, but this video was helpful. I
haven’t done the job yet but atleast know where to dig for the part
Thanks man, im getting my new cam sync this tuesday, but im going to do it
a bit different, and put it in TDC.
okay, I’m not 100% sure how it works, but this part does slide onto a hex
shaped shaft attached to the oil pump, so I think as the cam gears turn the
sync, it in turn drives the pump, I’m not a professional or certified
mechanic, so sometimes I might not be able to give you the answer you need
There’s a small plastic alignment tool you can get that will hook onto the
top and help line it up for you. Check your auto parts store or google for
it. If you can’t rent it, it shouldn’t cost but a few buck to just buy one.
yes i watched alot of vids and i think yours was one of the best thanks it
helped me alot.
@ThePigfat123 also if you have trouble lining up the gears to get it in
correctly, you can take a socket with extension and put it down the hole to
rotate the oil pump shaft so you can get it to go in easier, let me know
how it turns out for you
@mysqueeker is the check engine light on?, sorry for the delay, I hadn’t
checked email in a few days
Great job my man!!! My issue is I paid to have this done in June of 2010.
It is now May 2012 and I have the same issue suddenly again. However I did
hit a 4 by 4 on the highway a couple of days before the onset of the new
sound again.