DIY Ferrari Headers 3 – Ferrari engined Alfa 105 Alfarrari build part 52

DIY Ferrari Headers 3 – Ferrari engined Alfa 105 Alfarrari build part 52

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Comments

@Ryan-wf7sh says:

Well done Jeff! Amazing work. Maybe consider coating the engine/suspension mounts in a separate heat resistant coating? Surely paint will get cooked being that close.

@keithwatkins7469 says:

https://twitter.com/Snugbucket/status/1286390757746601984?s=20 – JEFF! – I saw this on Twitter and thought you should see it for some design & style ideas. K

@MagPel1 says:

You guys who love following this build. Give me tips on other builds/channels to watch that's in the same vain as this.

@keithwatkins7469 says:

Jeff , at times I was struggling to recognise the difference between your work and Aaron's – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKHRIFJ0lYo

@errolfeistl1705 says:

Hi Jeff, not sure if you've already got a plan in mind for joining the headers to the rest of the exhaust system, but i recommend having a look at "Vibrant Double Slip Joint Tubing Adapter". If you cut the collector back a bit you may have enough clearance to fit those…

Also, if you are getting the extractors HPC coated, i suggest bolting the headers to your mounting plate first. The heat used can cause the extractors to warp a little (especially as you are using individual flanges for each cylinder as opposed to a long common flange). I had a set of headers very similar to yours coated and they warped a fair bit. It was possible to straighten them, but it did mark the new coating :(.

And finally, with regards to heat shielding i personally recommend using thin gauge stainless steel sheet which you can form and weld to a specific shape. Stainless has poor heat transfer, meaning it works well as a heat shield.

Just another tip while i remember, when welding in captive nuts i like using serated stainless nuts as i find they dont rust like mild steel and you don't need to worry about soaking them in vinegar first. Also, get yourself a countersunk screw kit (search ebay for kit aak19). They ensure your captive nuts are always centred in the hole and your threads won't bind against the edges. If you just use a normal bolt the nut tends to slide to the side during welding making removal of the bolt a pain.

Loving the project so far, I'll try and post more useful tips as i think of them. I've been doing similar projects for 15 years so picked up a few handy hints.

Also, for anyone doing a set of headers out of stainless, dont bother back purging. Instead, use a product called solar flux. There is a distributor in Melbourne selling it for about $80 a tin (which lasts ages) and stops the caking issue on the inside. Makes the process considerably easier and cheaper.

@rivenmotors7981 says:

Really enjoyed your presentation on this one Jeff. You seemed more at ease with everything and having fun. Mrs. Jeff carry on with your awesome info bits!

@aceadman says:

You are a man of seemingly infinite patience and creativity. It is very cool to watch. Thanks again.

@lawrenceirvine8759 says:

Heat Shields! Brother Jeff instead of using heat wrap which keeps all the heat in the pipe, wrap each tube with heavy ( and I mean heavy) gauge copper wire. The copper will act as a heat sink. Thats how you stop nice chrome headers from turning blue.

@davidkatz9014 says:

I love the project. Priceless.

@filipd.8505 says:

That coating and heatshield around mount bushings is wise idea. Some time ago I installed polyurethane engine mounts into my corvette and after few track-days I had my engine sitting on crossmember and bushings were dripping around.

@marceloho1984 says:

9:16 when soldering, these things happen.

@gedification says:

I luv my 33’s! I’ve had 3 of them (out of my 11 Alfa’s). I’m glad Mrs. Jeff finally got to them! Luv ya work Jeff.

@richardmaccarthy6039 says:

You guys are enjoyable to watch and so talented and persistent

@garrytustian1874 says:

Great to see the Headers are finished at this stage, you must be able to take out that engine in your sleep now?

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