There is a mistake in this video. It should be checked with the 4 wires lugs (coil leads) around the edges of which the screws were removed. That should be continuity with very low resistance. Also, that should be no continuity between the coil leads and ground. This video was corrected accordingly with the following video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMCxEd0pahs
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Hi from New Zealand, video is just great, followed all the steps and alternator is like new. very quiet after replacing both bearings $43, large bearing was generating terrible noise in my Starlet 1200 turbo. Big thanks and all the best for 2017. Neville
i was wondering if you could help me. at 5:20 in the video you check the diode with ohms. why don't you check this with the diode setting on your multimeter? i've got the same multimeter and for me to get a reading i have to dial my multimeter to 2000k ohm then i get a reading of 500 – 600 sometimes its 1120. its all over the shop. when i check it with the diode setting i get 1120. that seems like quite a bit of resistance, is my rectifier alright? what are the limits for it?
great video! land cruisers have the same alternator only the pully and the plug on the regulator is different
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ALTERNATOR-Regulator-Brush-Holder-Fits-TOYOTA-Camry-Celica-MR2-1990-1993-/301222343054?hash=item462240318e:g:QQAAAOSw3ydVlH02
Sorry. The "check stator windings" at 3:50 is completely wrong. You are checking the continuity of three ground bolts to the case ground. You should be checking the 4 wire lugs around the edges. The screws that you removed at 2:50.
Thanks a lot for sharing. Very helpful!!!