I Perform a slight risky repair on this 200,000 mile 2013 Toyota Highlander.
This rear wiper issue is a common problem on this generation highlander and in this video we happen to run into the worst case scenario of this repair.
towards the end of the video we tackle the sway bar links and take a quick peek underneath this vehicle.
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0:00 Intro
0:45 Concern and Diagnosis
2:53 Wiper Repair
34:23 Sway Bar Links
40:00 Brining Out an Old Friend
47:55 Important Note on Sway Bar Links
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17 minutes into watching; NICE GOING TOYOTA!!!
mfg. needs no rust bolt in the future,
Have you ever tried to use an induction heater on the wiper to break the rust bond? I live in the rust belt, and heat is always a life saver.
i would have masked off the area ahmed. those sparks do damage glass. i worked at a bodyshop for years and saw this, and i even damaged the glass grinding near it.
We just got a 2013 Highlander and love it. 106k miles. Clean car. Only downside is 19 mpg. But otherwise, love it!
I have a 2013 just like this one, 197K km. My rear wiper stopped working last spring. Same issue as you demonstrated, except on mine the motor was still working. The wiper wasn't seized, but just very hard to turn on its shaft. As you shown, it was impossible to take it off. I gave it a good workout by hand, sprayed penetrating oil and let the glass open overnight hoping the oil will go down along the shaft somehow. It's back working for now, but now I know exactly what's involved if I eventually have to tackle this job. Thanks!
Has anyone ever tried drilling out the spindle considering the large hole in the glass the drill bit wouldn't come into contact .
I would have soaked it with rust penetration oil .
I have yet to actually use the rear wiper.
Best fix…Rain X, I haven't used wipers in over a decade
looks like crap gm, ford and chrysler would do. nice going toyota. your quality is getting just as bad as the mentioned car makers.
dear AMD honestly I'm a huge fan of this channel can you make a video on how to clean a fuel tank 2011 highlander
This guy washes his car too much. All the fasteners are rusty – it never gets a chance to dry!
Will a penetrating oil help.
You could apply some anti seize copper grease on the shaft to prevent corrosion.
If I owned a rust belt car, I'd rust proof everything.
It's a shame some owners are so ignorant to this major issue.
Great job! What about a little grease on that pivot shaft?
I’ve encountered this once but not to the extent of having to replace the motor on a bmw x3. I had to replace the wiper arm and it was a pain but I got it off eventually. So after I did I made sure to put some copper anti-grease to the bolt. The issue is there’s aluminum and steel coming in contact and galvanic corrosion will rust/weld this two dissimilar metals together.
Every car I’ve had since I’d put the anti seize on the post from day one.
Also, I think you should invest in an oscillating cutter. Much better for this kind of surgery compared to the dremel.
That rubber cover for the shaft will not work! Had one on my 2003 Matrix and crap still got in and seized everything up!
So why not cover with anti-seize or even silicone spray while assembling?
I have the same generation Highlander. It’s been largely maintenance free. Thank goodness I don’t live in rusty-land
Why couldn't you drill it out?
There is a little popular trick about this from breaking the glass and it's called lube every year with PB anticease spray or WD 40 heavy suty then silicon paste the inner cylinder exposed in place. You will be even replacing the whole tbing without a hassle and risk of breaking the rear glass.
skill issue
I've watched a few videos where it doesn't appear you believe in using lubricant to loosen the seized parts. It seems if you did it is likely these parts could be removed and require less replacements and/or dramatic cutting. Try PB Blaster, or something similar vs taking the laborious and expensive (for your customers) route.
I want the Landcruiser in the background
If that was oiled regularly it would have been fine.