Hey guys and welcome back to the channel.
I received many questions through the years for how to diagnose the reason behind a suspension noise, usually a visual inspection is enough to point to a failed component.
However sometimes a bad looking bushing may not be the cause of the noise although its changing is warranted.
U will have to differentiate between the two common suspension noises, a metal banging or squeaking, squeaking is mostly produced by rubber parts.
In this video will focus on the diagnoses of rubber parts.
Enjoy the video.
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Which is a socket (I saw somewhere that it is 15mm) for a screw that is tightened to 40Nm + 30 degrees, I suspect that this screw has loosened because I have a clicking sound when accelerating and braking.And the Clicking is heard only then, it is not there when driving and when going over bumps.
Are there any videos or pictures on how to swap in the powerflex bushings into these?
The rear bushing control arm sleeve have 2 fixing bolts holes, and one of them, the rear one, is larger and eccentric than the front one, you can adjust the wheel camber/toe using the play of the rear bolt in his hole right ?
Any videos/xp on front sway bar bushings?
Traced the cause of clank noises: A mechanic dropped my subframe when he did my clutch, but guess he didn't secure the bolts on bushing braces and the front left brace popped open bushing gone
Mechanic ghosting me
Love your videos man, they helped me with several issues, inspired me to not be scared to DIY my car.
On another note, got a pre-facelift v6 aero CV, and for the love of god i can't identify what causes metallic clinging noises from the front, driving over mad roads. Sounds a bit like hitting two small spanners against each other 😀
My steering wheel shakes a lot above 100km/h to about 130 and after that it's only vibrations. I have replaced one of the outer tie rod ends and the problem is still there. I have new tires which have been balanced aswell. What could the problem be?
كل الاحترام والتقدير يسلم ايديك على هالمعلومات القيمه
5:56 exactly so!! Furthermore one can go crazy carring out the wheel alignment……………….
Thanks for a very good clip. I will replace the entire control arm.
Excelente tutorial! El proceso lo aplicaré para mi Chevrolet Vectra V6 2004, ya que son similares las piezas que usted utiliza. Saludos desde México.
How do you know when to change the bushings? to me the old one looked ok
Thanks for doing videos on the V6….not many out there.
Just did axels and now when I use the brakes I'm getting kind of pop noise. When I had the lower control arm out of the hub the ball joint seemed very loose, could that make a pop noise? I replaced front struts as complete units but cheap ones from eBay about a year ago, not sure if something is bad with them.
Have you considered upgrading to poly bushings?
Can’t wait to see how you get the swaybar out. That was the worst part when I replaced the steering rack. I tried to replace the bushings when it was out but the replacements were too thick and I couldn’t get them down to thread my bolts in so I greased up the old ones and reused (they had been crunching in cold weather for years!!!). Also, the bolts on the bar are very hard to get to. Interested to see what tools you use.
Another quality video Marcus. Great work
I'll be doing that soon. Also I have high pitch clicking noise (like pitching a guitar string) when turning the wheel, reversing-stopping-going, I'm not sure if it's these bushings, might be the cv joints.
Edit: good video, of course. 🙂