A fairly simple process that will take about an hour. I got a replacement driveshaft here: http://www.wholesaleimportparts.com/
Tools:
12mm Socket
14mm Socket
6″ extension
12mm wrench (ratcheting preferred)
Jack and Jack Stands
Anti-Seize (optional)
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Just put a cat in your video and that should Garner at least 100 likes. So if you have 100 likes for the cat then you only have 2 likes and 8 (dislikes) for the video itself. 😀
I bought a new drive shaft, however the part to put into the tranny is not going in is there a reason for this?
do you happen to know if this is the same for an 06 Forester?
this video suck show the actual work
So happy that it's possible to do this w/o removing the exhaust like the service manual says. I'm sure it's a similar job on a 97 Leg OB.
The '03 Forester is somewhat easier from my experience. Two exhaust flange spring loaded bolts to remove. Drop the rubber exhaust hanger off and the entire exhaust system drops out of the way. Then it's merely the rear shaft guard (6 bolts), the 2 on the centre bearing housing and the 4 uni bolts at the rear diff. If you're getting the dead support knock and don't have a way of buying a new shaft for the '03(the bearing is non-serviceable), remove the shaft, drill four small holes in the rubber support and load it up with Sikoflex. Leave the shaft off with the 2 shaft sections supported so that the centre housing sits with no stress in any direction. This will help as a temporary fix until you find a new shaft. HTH
Great video! Awesome cat, LOL!
Thanks for the Video… Great info.
I'll add a few comments having done this repair myself as well. On the 2005-2009 Subaru Legacy (and I assume the Outback as well) it's an even easier job. Just 8 bolts and 5 exhaust hangers. Can be accomplished solo but easier if you have a 2 people. Expect to spend at least 2 hours on it if you've never done this before.
Applicable to the following transmissions:
If you have a 4spd automatic trans (the 4EAT) you'll need either part# 27111-AG01A or 27111-AG05A. BOTH of these driveshafts fit the 2005-2009 4EAT.
You will need:
Jackstands, chocks, at least one jack, a pair of ramps if you have them, an impact ratchet or gun is nice if you have one, 12/14/17 mm sockets, a ratchet (I used 1/2") and an extension wouldn't hurt.
REMOVAL
1. Put the front on ramps and the rear on jackstands. Engage the parking brake.
2. Remove only the two rear 14mm bolts of the front-most heatshield. Absolutely no reason to remove the other two. Bend the shield downward so that it wraps around the exhaust enough to allow you to access the two bolts holding the center driveshaft carrier. Do not remove the entire shield..it's unnecessary.
3. Remove the two 17mm bolts attaching the carrier to the underbody.
4. There is no rear metal cover blocking the driveshaft as there was on the Impreza in the video so you can skip that step if it isn't present.
5. Remove the lower two 12mm bolts where the driveshaft connects to the rear differential. [NOTE: the bolts each have a lockwasher and nut…don't lose them.] Take the parking brake off and rotate the shaft 180 degrees. Re-engage the parking brake back and remove the remaining two 12mm bolts. The shaft will now be sitting atop the exhaust.
6. At the rear of the vehicle pop all 4 exhaust hangers out of their rubber brackets. About 2 feet forward pop the 5th hanger out of its bracket if it isn't already broken off due to rust. [NOTE: to save time you can have a buddy work on step 6 while you're doing steps 2-5.]
7. Lower the exhaust downward at the rear just enough to slide the driveshaft straight out the back under the diff.
INSTALL
1. slide the new driveshaft in from the rear until it seats fully in the trans. Watch that center carrier bracket during this process and make sure it's facing upward as you maneuver it into place.
2. Attach the two 17mm carrier bolts. [NOTE: I could not find torque specs, but you'll get a feel for when these are tight as the rubber bushings compress.]
3. Bend the heat shield back into place and attach the two 14mm bolts. Again, I couldn't find torque specs.
4. Attach the lowest two 12mm bolts/washers/nuts at the rear of the driveshaft only until snug.
5. Disengage the parking brake and rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees. Re-engage the parking brake.
6. Attach the remaining two 12mm bolts and tighten fully. NOTE: I could not fit a torque wrench using an combination of sockets and extensions because the differential housing is in the way. So just tighten as best you can. I believe the spec on these bolts is only around 25-28 ft-lbs anyway.
7. Disengage the parking brake one last time and rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees. Re-engage the parking brake. Now fully tighten the first two 12mm bolts.
8. Finish up by inserting the 5 exhaust hanger points back into their brackets.
Voila. Done. I found a used driveshaft on eBay for $140 shipped out of an ~85k mile parts car. Seller (an online used parts dealer out of NY) provided full money back guarantee and even a 6 month warranty on the part (pretty damn good). Arrived with the staked in joints in excellent condition. It beats paying close to $400 new on eBay and some $700+ from Subaru.
Good luck!
Here's a question. I couldn't get it changed right away because my backup vehicle was broken, and now when I took off, it was moving the shifter lever and stuff. Got the heat shield off so far and the u joint is definitely messed up. Do you know why it would mess up my shifter? (automatic transmission)
I replaced my driveshaft. Center bearing was shot and caused shaking at certain speeds. The shaking isnt as intense but is still present. Any ideas on what it may be? Is it possible I was sent a faulty driveshaft?
Did you have any trouble getting the drive shaft around the exhaust? Also, which side (the tranny or engine) did you pull the shaft out through?