Car Fix DIY Videos

@juancarloslozano3374 says:

I'm doing a oil can catch instsllation on my '02 9-3 2.0 SE, a video on that topic could be usefull. Cheers!

@stretchy1260 says:

Hey…. this looks like a great mod, but…i'm not dumb or anything but i lost the plot after you plugged the Throttle..? do you just leave that hose or remove it from the controller..? and do i plug the controller..? the video is proberbly really straight forward but just not seeing it… can you explain a bit more.. sorry… i am from Brum.!

@360hackern says:

Can i do this even if i have deleted and blocked the bov?

@ivans2r800 says:

That is not the only thing to do. Need to reset ECU. Extract de fuse N 7 wait for 10. Seca. And put it on again.

@robertgriggs9757 says:

So first time hearing of this I have a 18psi blow off valve I wonder how it will work with that? I will let you guys know.

@xortxtreamoffroadtrucks5652 says:

Do you plug the controller as well ?

@Turb0peppe says:

If you have a 9-5 Biopower this should NOT be done as it fuckes up the adaptation
In a gasoline only car it works tho

@jasonmorahan7450 says:

Okay you do need those hoses connected and the bypass valve working to specification, which becomes fairly obvious if you know what the thing actually does. It's not quite so much to make the car quieter and smoother in town driving, it's to stop you running up the back of someone in traffic. What it does is when you throttle and spool the turbo, the boost pressure builds and when you let off the throttle the boost is still present and has to go somewhere so it forces the throttle valve open, even though your foot is off the pedal. A correctly working bypass valve is designed to send the boost somewhere else when you shut the throttle. The bypass valve opens via the controller as soon as it gets the signal from the throttle body, sending the residual boost from the spooled turbo out the bypass instead of into the manifold to hold the throttle valve open even though your foot is off the pedal.

That's basically all it does. Stops you from running up the back of someone in stop/start traffic with a boost-sticky throttle. You may not notice this in casual driving but in stop/start traffic if you spool and sudden stop you'll get a sticky throttle lag which causes collisions if you're not quick to compensate. It is only designed to function when there is positive boost and the throttle snaps shut, otherwise it doesn't do anything. It doesn't influence acceleration or spooling, it doesn't limit maximum boost, it doesn't do anything else except that one thing.
However a byproduct of a functioning bypass valve is preserving the turbo and some other components and the original factory turbos don't have a very long life between overhauls so they could use the help.
If you disconnect the hoses it no longer functions. That is just bad results all round. Bad for the motor, bad for avoiding traffic collisions, doesn't improve performance in any way. All you did was break something the engine needs and so now requires fixing. Also I think it makes the T7 engine controller have a brain fart and messes with engine management when it isn't functioning correctly. If it seems to run differently when you go disconnecting the hoses, maybe you put into limp mode which, no doesn't mean it doesn't go good but does mean none of the engine management functions designed to improve VE and preserve engine components are going to be working.

Listen, don't do urban myth home mods. Save a couple of months wages, it's really not expensive, I just bought a factory ecopower 2.3T (220hp) so swapped in an Aero turbo, bigger intercooler and a Saab licensed Hirsch 305hp tune. Instant sleeper, the whole thing was cheap and easy and every factory component still functions perfectly. It'll even pass an emissions test and inspection by any authorities as a dealer optioned package and if it was a brand new car it wouldn't even void the warranty. Trust me 305hp/310ft-lbs is no joke for a daily streeter.
Do that, don't do these disconnecting factory equipment in the driveway mods.

My other car is the actual project car, in the avatar the Mercedes 190E with a 285hp N/A iron block six which started out at 160hp. What a lot of people do with the old Bosch Jetronic on those is bridge or remove a resistor that governs the ignition advance for local fuel grade, the urban myth is that it limits advance and bridging or deleting it unlocks more ignition advance for better throttle response. It's total placebo and in fact simply places the injection system into workshop test mode, not intended for regular driving. What you need to do is either piggyback a standalone ECU with a Jetronic interface module like Franken-CIS or else convert the engine to full EFI and tune it properly for the mods you want to do, like I had to. There's no other way to actually modify the factory ignition curve correctly but people still think this driveway mod will do that.

There's lots of urban myths about simple driveway mods for more power and they're all myths, most either hurt your engine or hurt your wallet when a cop sees them and none of them actually improve performance in any qualitive way. If you are going to do it, just know that what you're doing is simply giving yourself a learning experience but not really achieving much else.

@dstreetzgarage4431 says:

Hey nice video I will definitely try it in the near future but hey im really stuck right now I need all 6 front subframe bolts for 99 og 9-3 thats in good shape I can't find any here in the scrap yard if you can find them for me it will be a blessing I also want to talk about maybe a car club hmu

@philliparthur8672 says:

Good video and I was wondering if this would work on my 2007 saab 9-3? Anyway Happy Valentine's Day and hope to hear back from you.