We refurbish and upgrade the heater box, blower motor and heater matrix of our classic jaguar.
Heater core: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193746963786
Ducting: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09H4MC8JW
Music by: Bensound
License code: 26UE7ES1TOQFMEBQ
License code: M6XDVSIBE4ENU4RX
){kind=link}
A question was asked how the heater controls are connected up, I've added a picture to my Instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/DE2q3PIoUcI/?igsh=MTd1dmZqM2hhajdzag==
MC Wilkinsons sell an uprated heater kit for the Jaguar Mk2 – C21991 – £425.00, but it only increases airflow by 20%, which is not enough if you are carrying passengers.
I think your original idea of using a Ford Mondeo heater fan would give the sort of airflow that a Jaguar Mk2 needs.
Alternatively, the front windscreen and rear window can be replaced with new Jaguar Mk2 heated glass.
The front and rear glass can be obtained from Uroglas Ltd, made to modern standards.
Pilkingtons used to do the heated rear windows for the Mk2, but they never did a heated front windscreen.
I think the wiring is aready in the loom for the rear heated window, but you just need to add a Lucas Relay (12V 20 Amp 6RA) (~£30) and period dashboard pull-switch (£70), for which there is already a milled out position on the back of the woodwork where you need to drill a couple of holes.
Double up on the wiring and relay if you're fitting a heated front windscreen, and run it through the same rear window switch.
However, I have fitted heated front windscreens in the past, and I have found that the fine heating wires burn out and leave unheated strips on the screen, or even a misted half screen if they are made in two sections, left and right. The rear screens tend to survive better because they use thicker heating wires.
The inner cables linked to the heater control levers can be remade from piano wire, available in various gauges from B&Q or Home Depot.
Thanks for another entertaining and informative video 🙂
Greetings from Ferntree gully Australia. Thanks for your videos.
do. you really have to put that awefull, dreadfull, annoying background, repetitive background noise, turn it off, unwatchable and unlistenable awefull dreadful annoying irritating intrusive
I did this about 20 years ago with an uprated heater motor and matrix from David Manners, with the same result. I then used closed cell foam as seals for the heater box rather than the poor normal seals, this along with blocking off the rear heater pipes made much more difference than the motor and matrix and cost pennies!
Great work. And I thought my 72 XJ6 had a primitive system. Love what your doing. Cheers.
Nice video and I like like how you upgraded the heater's fan system to actually blow hot air through the heater matrix and out the vents.
Modern cars' AC/heating systems actually run the AC at the same time as the heater is turned on in order to remove the humidity from the air being heated to demist the windows better than just the heater by itself can.
One thing I should mention Vic, at 1.40 you mentioned the flap at the bottom of the heater controlling recirculation or external air feed. That actually controls demist, or cabin and demist(optimistic!) The control for the flap in front of the windscreen is connected to an inner one which draws air from the cabin. So to get maximum heat it is important to close the external vent. Virtually impossible to see inner vent unless you take out the dash. I discovered it when I had to un-seize the one on my car!
By keeping it simple and close to original the car will keep its value. But in the end it your car. Well done.
one front quarter and one rear quarter window open to get crossflow …
P.S. , I also blocked off the vents to the rear.
Good video, thanks.
The story is that Sir William Lyons always drove in an overcoat and gloves, and therefore wasn’t that bothered about heaters in his cars! However, I still miss my Daimler 250 V8
I just did mine. New brushes , new seals and new matrix . Great heat now but like yours it's misting up a bit.
Hi Vic, I'm just restoring a Mark2 2.4, that I bought for very little money in a poor condition. I really enjoy your videos as I already learned a lot watching your channel. Unfortunately some parts of my jag were damaged or lost, so that I couldn't figure out, how they are supposed to be. And here's my question: how did you connect the cable that operates the flap for the airflow? There's just a little double angled lever coming out of the heater box, that doesn't look, as if the cable could connect to it. I'd be pleased if you are willing to help me. Best regards, Björn ( Lüneburg/Germany)
Great video thanks Vic.
Motor definitely sounded rough Vic. On load with the fan correctly adjusted, the original motor will draw about 5.5 amps at 14 volts.
Remove them alltogether is more like old school freedom. Mine is a 1960 so thank God I don't need them
Modern inertia reel belts in the front wouldn't go amiss