Automotive technician since 1991 I show you the easy process of a head gasket replacement on a 1998 HONDA CIVIC. All other head gasket repair and replacement…
Automotive technician since 1991 I show you the easy process of a head gasket replacement on a 1998 HONDA CIVIC. All other head gasket repair and replacement…
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deibama, Cant we all just get along lol. Let the hate go, don’t let the
bitterness tear you up inside, God Bless you brother.
hello sir,i had bubbles in my rad so I pulled the head 1.6 vtec 00civic
didnt see any issues with the head gasket,no milky oil,no water in
oil,exhaust,head had a mini crack between pug and valve ,so I replaced the
head with a rebuilt one,replaced belt,pump,thermo,plugs wires,gaskest,still
bubbles in radiator about every 10secs???the issue was it was over heating
after about 10milesof driving any thoughts?Thanks
man thats gonna take alot of time..
what needs to be taking out from the head before sending it to the shop to
get it resurfaced ? besides the things you had listed.
This guy needs a TV show. Good job, fast paced yet easy to follow.
Awesome video, man. I don’t think I would ever feel confident to do it
myself, but I appreciate seeing what it takes to do this job.
OK People lets put it all on the table. I just got blamed for someones head
gasket blowing out because of the Permatex Copper Sealant I used. Remeber
when I said there was a big DEBATE on whether or not you should use the
copper deal? well here we go… I have been an Automotive Technician since
1991, I started using Permatex Copper sealant since 1994. Since then I have
used it from then till now. I have never had an issue with it and have done
many many head gasket jobs with it. I specialize in engine overhaul and
know a few mechanics that use it. I still stand by the product and will
continue to use it. I also know many mechanics do not like or use it,
therefore it all comes down to personal preference. Now, why did his head
gasket blow out after? I have know idea… But the question comes to mind,
how was the work performed? did he have the cyl head machined? ( A TRUE
FLAT SURFACE IS VERY IMPORTANT ON THE HEAD), was the warpage limit reached?
did he torque the head bolts in the proper sequence? I WILL NEVER KNOW,
even if you did a shady job or if your mechanic is trying to dig into your
wallet and blaming it on the Permatex, then you blaming me. Now should you
use the Copper Sealant? like I said in the video you DO NOT HAVE TO USE IT
because cyl head gaskets do not require it, (its optional) but I use it
because that’s what the old skool mechanics taught me, plus it has not
failed me at all during my years using it. So please do your research and
DUE DILIGENCE before you perform any task AND DO IT WITH QUALITY The
Copper is my personal preference and is based on my experience with it. I
am only out to help you all not to mislead you about anything I do in my
tutorials. Thanks for the feedback and sorry to hear about your situation
Wayne, God Bless
.
ATTN EVERY ONE: ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS CHECK YOUR BLOCK DECK WARPAGE (
BECAUSE HONDA USES AN ALUMINUM BLOCK) AND GET THE CYLINDER HEAD RESURFACED
AT A PROFESSIONAL QUALIFIED MACHINE SHOP —-ALWAYS– EVEN IF YOU USE OR DO
NOT USE THE PERMATEX COPPER SEALANT. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT YOU DO THIS STEP.
If you do not know how please watch my video on EASY CHECKING CYLINDER HEAD
DECK WARPAGE & ENGINE BLOCK (10 SPOTS)……
Hey oldskool funk got a question. I have recently had my head gasket
replaced about a year ago. But I’m seeing oil leaking from the bottom side
of distributer going in to the block. Is there a gasket there to that needs
to be replaced?
I was looking everywhere for a video on head gasket replacement. This video
is by far the best. You know exactly what you’re doing unlike other people
on youtube.
Distributor only fits 1 way. FYI so you guys don’t have to mark anything
job like this is way over my head but still neat to watch, oldskool, you’re
right up there with Eric the Car Guy, great video.
how did u take the coolant in the engine block out and what is the name of
the sealant that yo bought to put on the head gasket.. Thanks bro..I
appreciate the video
Attn: Everybody you dont need to use the hose and balloon, have someone
twist the crankshaft and then place your hand over the spark plug well and
feel for pressure. it works even faster, no balloon needed, God Bless.
I am trying to become a mechanic i am only 18 years old and i gotta say
this helped a lot from a “do it yourself” stand point and it helped because
i drive a honda with a d series engine like the one in the video and my
head gasket blew and i took it to the machine shop learned a few tricks
from them and also taught myself with a lil help from “oldskool funk” to
change my own head gasket my dad wanted to help and i said if it was cool
if he watched and told me if i was doing anything wrong and i took
everything i saw in these videos and he was impressed and now im rolling
again in my civic with my pops and my friends low n slow with the dropped
civics haha.
I like this dude man lol
Hey brother in Christ. I have a question. I got a head that has been
resurface and ready to be out on my civic. I will be removing my old head
and be putting the new head on. My question is how do I know that it will
be on compression side.vjuat like my old head was when I removed it. The
new head does not have a cam pully so I will be using the old pulley. Is
there any way I turn the cam to set it like my old head came out. Thanks
God Bless
Love your balloon trick for figuring out whether the engine is on
compression stroke or exhaust stroke! Great!
Attention everyone: If you’re going to replace your head gasket, DO NOT add
silicone using the gasket maker. Oldskoolfunk, you caused me mayhem on my
car by instructing that. The silicone came off the gasket while I was on
the road and my car almost overheated because the coolant flooded the
engine. You just lost your credibility, man.
Hi can you do a video Honda Passport 96?
head gasket change with a street twist. I like it homie lol
Thank u
Just a small but simple question. whats the easiest way to take off the
bolts around the engine? some of them are rusted or tightly wrenched on
there from previous work, but I don’t exactly want to put brute force on
them for fear of slipping or something and damaging a critical component.
Is there a trick of the trade that may put my mind at ease or make the
bolts easier to take off?
hey Mr oldskool funk, these videos are soo kool. and well xplaned. but the
very best of all is wheN you honor CHRIST and cuote, on GOD’S WORD WITH
GOD ALL THINGS ARE POSIBLE.. FROM YOUR LAST VIDEO., OK MAY GOD BLESS YOU AS
WELL KEEP THE FAITH. BROTHER. JESUS IS COMING SOON
bro good video man one of the best iv seen
I too have used the Copper Gasket Maker for years with no problems here. I
prefer it because if while you are scraping off the old gasket and grime
with a razor edge same as suggested in video, you can introduce hairline
scratches during the process, especially on aluminum soft metal surfaces.
So I have always used the Copper Gasket Maker to fill any very small
imperfections in the surface. When you torque down the head bolts following
the correct tightening pattern to tighten it down evenly, the head gasket
is designed to sandwich and fill the tiny imperfections, however I like
using the Copper Gasket Maker because I know that I wont have to dig into
it again if an imperfection ( scratch ) in the block mating surface to the
head gasket is deeper than the head gasket material can form into. Many
people dont know that under the tightening process of the head the gasket
compresses and fills imperfections. BUT it will not fill for warpage in the
head or block surface. So do not skip resurfacing the head!!! So, if you
know what you are doing like myself and Wayne, you will be successful, but
if this is a first time go at it and you make a mistake or skip an
important process, or decide to add your own method of removing the old
gasket material like one person I saw take a wire brush on a power drill to
the surfaces, you are really going to go down the path of failure very
quickly and it will either be expensive to repair it or as was the case of
the guy with the wire brush on the power drill, he couldnt afford to fix
the damages and he ended up sending it to the junk yard instead. He messed
it up BAD and asked me for advice on how to fix the damages. I said look
around for another engine to drop into it, you cant replace all that
missing metal!!! I found this video because while I know how to do the
job, done about 25 of them in last 20 years on a variety of vehicles, the
one thing I learned early on was that its best to check with someone who
has done a specific job first to see if there are any tricks or stuff to
watch out for when working on a specific engine that you may not have tore
into before. YOUTUBE has been perfect at that among advice for other stuff
like oil furnace repair etc. And so I watched the video to see what methods
Wayne used. I never marked the distributor before with paint as for I just
pull it off and set it off to the side and no one messes with it etc.
However if you have a kid that might come around and grab the shaft and
twirl it, you will definitely want to mark it with paint to know your
timing is correct when reinstalling it for firing order. One piece of info
I didnt see was the VTEC solenoid and block to head attachment to reroute
oil to the rocker arms to drive the pins in under oil pressure to enable
the higher HP output when the solenoid is triggered by the cars computer
and the secondary rockers lock and ride the different duration of the SOHC.
Maybe this is the DX model and not the EX? or was removed off camera since
Wayne was tight for time when filming this?
Good job bro appreciate the upload keep it up.
do i need to drain my coolant and oil?