A bad camshaft synchro was driving me nuts with it’s chirping and recently was causing some bucking/missing from the engine at high rpms. There was a TSB on …
Ford Ranger Camshaft Synchro Replacement
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Do the 4.0 have the same problem to
thanks man this video helped me it took me like 2 hours but it was good when i started the car on time and all
Great video and thanks for posting. I searched for info on this and decided to check here found your video and it was perfect. I replaced mine last night, runs great…again, thanks
you may have twisted the synchronizer after you seated the teeth like I did and tweaked the timing.If you recall, loosen hold down and twist it back a bit in the opposite direction. Essentially changing the timing mixture. good luck
thanks for vid. it helped. FYI for others: once synchronizer is set DO NOT move synchronizer or fuel mixture is thrown off. I did this. Luckily I realized it and was able to loosen hold down bolt give it a little twist back and I was good. Good Luck
just replaced the camshaft position sensor on my bone stock 2000 3.0 flex fuel… it now misses on cold startups and high rpms and it only seems to do it on the higher gears could i have messed up the synchronizatoin when replacing the sensor or faulty wiring?? help please
02 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0l flex
dont have an engine light on or do i hear any chirping under the hood, but i do have the problem of it bucking and hesitating above 3000 RPM(very frustrating)… what i need to know is if i actualy need to replace the cam syncro or just the cam sensor? info would be much appreciated
Great video!!
96 Ford ranger super cab.
I had a P0340 & P0401 code, watched this video and replaced the camshaft synchronizer.
69.00 autozone, only parts place in town that stocked it.
Check the casting for high spots and grind and sand smooth, or it will get stuck, as mine did!
I removed the hood to get over the work area.
Use air compressor to clean motor off before pulling the synchronizer.
Lubricate o’ring before installing.
Road tested, runs like new. (250K miles)
THANKS!!!!!
Wish I could get you to replace mine or teach me how. I’m a lady ranger driver, and I am having this exact same problem. It seems that I just replaced this two or three years ago, but I have a 2001 ranger and gettin’ pretty old with nearly 140,000 miles.
i just replaced my synchronizer on my 03 ranger today but that tooth isnt in the exact same spot as the original was it got shifted slightly left will that have a major affect/effect?
Ford garage wants $632.00 to do this on my Ranger. When they gave me the quote I said,”No Thank.”
Thank you so much for posting this video! I just replaced the part in my ford ranger and it worked perfectly! Only cost me $58
what year is the ranger you are working on, i have a 2002 3.0 and cant seem to find it
@conagraman- i figured it out lol.
For anyone wondering -the “step up” or “no step” is: at the bottom of the synchronizer’s shaft if it is a “step up” you will see two machined sides which sort of square off two of the sides- the other two sides are round. The “no step” version does not have the machined sides it just looks like a round shaft. Here is the funny part – you won’t know which one you need till you pull yours out and lok at it HAHAHA FuKK u ford! LOL
-hope that helps someone
@qwikslvr74 great video! thank you for posting!! i have a question about this no one seems to be able to answer. i have a 03 ford ranger and i am going to replace my camshaft synchro. there are two options one with a “step on” and the other “no step” do you know what the heck the difference is?
Thank you sooo much for taking the time to show people like me how to do this, I’ve got a 03 taurus and the hard part on this one is the big wiring harness that runs right above it. After talking to a mechanic who said they tend to granade when they go, I figured time was of the essense. I bought a new one at napa and oiled it up just like you did. Worked like a champ and oh so quiet now, thanks again.
what yr is ur truck mine is a 95 and I feel a little intimidated about it, urs seems to be alot easier to get to..
you need to speak up on your video you speak to soft i can hear nothing
Thanks for the great video. I changed the syncro and sensor in my 2003 ranger @ 97,000 miles in under 2 hrs thanks to your explanation. Turns out one of my u-joints was making the squeaking/vibrating, but my new syncro should be good for another 8 years! Thanks
I did this a few years ago in my 2001 Sable. Now I have a 2001 Ranger and am going to do the same. Looks easier in the Ranger, less junk in the way to deal with. As with my Sable I plan to replace the sensor as well for good measure. The Vulcan is a pretty solid engine, but this seems to be its achilles heal. Glad it’s not too terribly expensive and easy to do. RockAuto.com sells the synchro for 100 bucks and the sensor for 20. Motorcraft on the former, ACDelco on the latter.
That’s great to hear it’s running better. It’s hard to find anything not made in China nowadays…unfortunately. But, 45 bucks, that’s a hell of alot cheaper than the ford unit I paid for. Can’t beat that price!!
Decided on the 45 dollar napa-Bulkamp unit. Poped it in and now my truck has never run so great as it run’s now,also year’s ago it would ping but the mazda ferk’s never fixed it.No more cherp.I looked closely to find origin of manufacture,turn’s out China-Dam it! but it’s new.Thank’s,I’m as happy as a” pig-in- she- I- t- it “!
yea the two offered by autozone were cheap looking rebuild’s,they looked shot peened ,I made the mistake of buying their upper and lower ball joint’s a while back an now they feel like they’re already worn out.What a waste of my labor an time.
Do some research on brands. Maybe do a google search or search some forums on the brand/make of the replacement. I read some bad reviews on one of the units sold at Advance Auto. I believe it was the Cardone part. I remember reading that they didn’t last, and wore out quickly. Napa would probably be the best bet for a quality part. I opted for the ford part, but did pay the price….
You tube provides alot of useful information,besides the ordinary crap,just got to dig in and search.autozone offer’s one for 69.00 bucks, tomorrow I’ll check the Napa store and compare.
You’re welcome. I am very glad you found the video useful. Youtube is a great tool, I’ve learned much from watching different videos. Thanks for watching and for the kind comment.
Great instruction’s.The hayne’s book discussed all that unnescessary crap,I thoght the problem was with the alt bearing’s wasted 125 bucks,changed the sepentine belt with a gate’s and belt noise was illiminated but there was still that cherp sound,grabbed the sensor w/engine running an sure enough this squeak could be felt as well as increased. thank’s to you and you tube I’am on my way to a total cure.THANK’s
I would like to say thanks for posting this video. I have been fighting with a squeak for the last couple weeks…the cam sync was it..
As a side note for installing the new one. It did not appear to me that it was the gear teeth engaging which needed to be lined up, but the hex fitting at the bottom of the shaft. This allows ultimately only 6 positions available, so a little more difficult to get wrong. How ever can be tricky because the shaft needs to rotate as you push it down. Thanks again!
I got my camshaft synchronizer from partsgeek for 34 bucks. for a 2003 ford taurus v6 3.0
or, you can align the #1 piston top dead center, and find one of those alignment tools to get it right. I think you can get one on loan (they might charge a rental fee) from an auto parts store such as autozone or advance auto.
if its idles badly, then you might be off by just one tooth. try taking the syncro back out, rotating the “tooth” one direction slightly and replace it. If the idle is better, then you are on the right track. if it gets worse, take it back out and go the other direction with it. Hope this helps a little.
please help when u took the picks of the syncro was it on top dead center thats the issu im having i took it off not knowing it had to back in the same way now its on but bad idle pls reply as soon as you can thank you
thanks for the reply. I cant find information about the 4.0s on any forum. Some say that the 4.0 shouldn’t have this problem, but I am. Guess I need to take it to the shop. I don’t even have a code reader..
mine is the 3.0L. The 4.0’s may have the same problems, but I haven’t looked into it.
Is your truck a 4.0 or 3.0? I have the same issue but everyone seems to be talking about the 3.0.
dang I just bought mine for $72 after tax dealers really take you
Great video. Was wondering what the part number was for the synchro?