3.5 Pacifica Upper Intake Air leak This issue is very common on the 3.5 Pacificas. You will hear a hissing/whistle sound if you pop the hood. And your check …
3.5 Pacifica Upper Intake Air leak This issue is very common on the 3.5 Pacificas. You will hear a hissing/whistle sound if you pop the hood. And your check …
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Thanks for the great video! Y’all are true mechanics. Do you recall what
engine code was tripped by this leak? I have one that seems to hesitate
like it is a vacuum leak, but no code. Also, what did the whistle sound
like? No joke. I swear the neighbor’s cat is under the hood sometimes with
this one… thanks for the video!
What size screw did you use for this?
Yea first they said it was the fuel pump and replaced it but it didn’t
help, I checked the fuel lines and from the back it’s shooting fuel but
from a purge with a green cap behind the right head light under the hood
bbisn’t . when the
With the screw in there won’t it stop the linkage from moving and the
butterflies in the plenum from opening and closing?
Back again. I think we’ve gone thru enough diagnostic and car repairs. 3
times since I last commented and the engine light is still on. Anyway I can
email you directly just to get some friendly advice on what I should do?
Thanks
THANK YOU 4 THE INFO GUY’S! GOOD VIDEO!
yeah, iIm afraid it might be too worn. But i obviously cant guarantee that,
it could be a slightly different procedure than this would work for you…
the car in which we did this has been driven since it was fixed well over a
year ago still going strong. I would try the screw and clear the code and
put it back together and see if code would come back..
Would this cause the pacifica to not start and stall when it does ??? Also
acts as if its not receiving fuel? Please let me
know……zakrygreen@gmail.com
Do you know what causes the engine light to stay on.
ok I will take it apart tomorrow and see if the screw works, as bad as it
is I don’t have a cel on but the idle is certainly too high and when I pull
out on the rod it helps decrease the idle a bit. You mentioned there may be
a different procedure? I have noticed that the valve the plastic rod
connects onto sometimes sticks and will stick all the time if you open it
all the way. Do you think replacing that valve also would help at all?
Thanks Again.
gas cap will set off a Evap leak code but does not affect the cars
functionality, i.e. the idle. This issue here is different, not sure if you
watched the whole video.
What happens, if I take away the plasticrod. Which function is gonna loose?
The problem showed on this video would not cause that..Most likely dealing
with something else. Has tests been done to check for other problems..?
my pacifica evaporator sysrtem leak
Tom, great video. I gave the video to my repair shop in Derry, NH and after
adding the screw his smoke test should some improvement but still leaking
and causing check engine code. Do you know of any repair kits or if he
could replace the bearing or drill out for a new bearing, Many junk yards
will sell me the manifold but my concern is they may be worn since a common
problem Please advise . Thank you, Lou
I’m glad to hear that! It’s a money saver considering the rod is part of
the whole intake and it cost over $1400 at the dealer! The customer’s car
which we did this on has been fine for well over a year now.
I’m glad I found this. I noticed my car (same model) making a noise in the
front last week and now my check engine light is on. I hope my situation is
similiar. I’m going to forward this solution to someone who knows how to
fix cars for me. Thank you!
The screw is not on there that tight. The purpose of the screw is to make
the bigger rod work is its place, so it doesn’t have play and move in/out.
Thats what was creating the a leak/whistling sound.
sorry but I said different procedure meaning something different.. but
honestly, if you dont have a CEL on I would put the screw there to keep the
rod snug to reduce the leak and call ti a day.. and see if you have any
problems with it then. Now, you mentioned the valve sticking, is this when
your manually moving it or when it is operating?
if you remove the rod you will basically lose the function of the upper
intake. The rod is what open and closes the butterflies to let air in/stop
air flow.
you are absolutely correct about putting hands on a worn intake already.
And a junk yard may also quite a bit of money for one. The worst thing is
that he dealer only sells the intake as a whole, surprise right?
Unfortunately I do not know of any other methods, the car we did this to
has been daily driven since with no problem. This could honestly turn into
some trial and error, I mean to question his knowledge but everything has
to be a tight fit in order to end the leak.
Let me know how that works out…The owner of this car also happens to be a
friend of ours, and his car comes back for oil changes regularly, we have
not had a problem with that fix, definitely better than spending 2k+ on an
intake and labor.
I just did this it worked!!! Awesome!!! Instead of using a drill we have a
little hand held torch heated a nail using vice, and used pliar to melt a
hole than used a very small self tapping screw! Same year and
everything………. location Boone Iowa!
obviously only tests could confirm what it is but since they have replaced
the fuel pump it seems like its going to be some other electrical problem.
And at the fuel rail, fuel does does not always have a high pressure which
would cause it to shoot out.. Remove the injectors and crank the car and
see if they are injecting proper fuel, this may not be a fuel problem after
all.
Just realized you’ve been getting a lot of responses. Take your time. I
appreciate any feedback by this point.
could be a throttle body issue… gets stuck and needs cleaned, or may need
replaced. Also, if gas cap isn’t on correctly, will set off engine lite
issues
I understand now however when it’s running (Intake is still on car) I can
pull out on the rod which helps quiet the whistling substantially but I
still hear a slight whistling or hissing “from the same area” and still
gets much louder for a couple seconds right after I shut the car off. Could
it be that mine is too worn out for a screw to completely stop the vacuum
leak? Thanks much!
My father in law is going to check it out again. I sent him a link to view
the video as reference. He told me it was probably something else but I’m
leaving my car the weekend so he can check it out. I hope my problem is
just as the video above. The code that came on was P0456. The light is
still on and the noise seems to be louder than last week. I’ll check back
with you. I appreciate you getting back. – Rona
Manually moving it. Unfortunately just reducing the leak isn’t getting my
idle down therefore I get a pretty good clunk when I shift it into gear and
it goes down the road 20-25 mph on it’s own. Again I appreciate your
replies!