REVIVING THIS RANGE ROVER CLASSIC ENGINE | HIGHPEAK'S RESTORATION PT.5

REVIVING THIS RANGE ROVER CLASSIC ENGINE | HIGHPEAK'S RESTORATION PT.5

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Welcome to Transformotion Vehicle Rebuilds! Follow us as we rebuild some absolutely destroyed cars!

After managing to get this vehicle started for the first time in 7 years, we now try and get to the bottom of why it’s running so poorly. Then we look at finishing the work on the wheel arch and front body mounts.

How do you think this restoration is coming along?

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@brenglover72 says:

Try disconnecting the throttle potentiometer- they wear out and can cause driveabilty issues. Using a multimeter votage should rise smoothly as the throttle is opened.Engine should still run with it unplugged but you won't get full throttle.

@Turleyswheels says:

I’d trust you guys you’ve done a great job so far and I love you’re let’s do this let’s do that in a start cheap and work up I e dear you will get there ❤

@LordBumSniffington says:

Top stuff lads. Love the distributor impression

@Thanos.m says:

It does sound like it has vacuum leaks with the high revs on startup. Ideally you'd want to plug it in diagnostics so what's really going may be worth looking at Rovergauge one of few software's that can talk to the old lucas computer

@ronniewebster205 says:

Another awesome video dudes

@user-ym1ff1vg8c says:

Keep going lads. If it was easy anyone could fix it
100% faith you'll sort it

@user-bm3uz9cg7l says:

Another brilliant vid guys
That motor is like digging up a dead body and trying to wake itup to full health. Ur so close

@jaymzb666 says:

You guys always seem to come up with a solution even when things conspire against you. Keep up the great work on the RR and the great videos

@deaks25 says:

It was starting better each and every time, so the lads are definitely making progress. It seems like one of those projects that'll look and feel like it'll never be finished then all of a sudden, you nail down the mechanical issues and get it running sweet, all the body work goes back on and the interiors being installed in a really short space of time and it's on first full test drives.

@anti-social-media says:

14CUX balances the mixture in essentially 2 ways AFM and Lambda. That AFM you fitted is complete junk they don't work I've proved it on my own RRC you need a genuine Lucas/Hitachi 3AM AFM it sounds like your running lean. Presumably this is a pre-catalytic converter car running the green tune resistor and no lambda sensors. The AFM signal is vital on this map and it won't ever run properly unless it's reading the correct AFM signal. If it was a cat tune running lambda sensors on a white tune resistor the AFM signal isn't as important as the fuel is adjusted via the lambda sensors. Do this before anything else otherwise your just going to be chasing false issues trust me. Another culprit is the TPS but fit a genuine AFM before you do anything else.

@blairoutproject says:

A needle sweep.. how have I lived so long without this function?

@colinthompson5881 says:

Great determination, old cars are so frustrating, will be worth it in the end guys, great work

@andresrojas5222 says:

There are a few things that come to mind, it could be old fuel in the system, also the ecu on those things is on a terrible location so I had seen several corrode over time because of water ingress. It could also be the temperature sensor that is acting up, check with a multimeter to find out if it’s on spec or just replace altogether. It could also be the stepper motor for the idle control or the throttle position sensor or its adjustment. Don’t believe it’s an ignition problem and would keep the old parts like the cap and rotor on hand since new parts can be crap, had seen several of them not last more than a few miles, would just clean the old with a brush and have handy.

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