Very helpful I have a 70 something chrysler 10hp. I know NOW that its 74 or
newer because it has a 6 spline impeller. Thanks. I have to replace the
starter the one I have looks in bad shape. Do you know where I can look for
one that I can just bolt on.
Question. I did everything you described in this vid on a mid 70’s 6hp
Chrysler outboard. When putting the two halves back together something has
happened to the gear shift linkage. The prop spins in neutral and reverse,
and the lever won’t shift into forward. Any idea what happened and how to
remedy it? 🙂 Thanks!
I got this lower end back together the other day and ran it. I think what
was throwing me off in the measurements, was the mold flashing on the
impeller. After I got the pump assembled with the impeller greased, the
effort to turn the drive shaft increased reasonably between housing bolts 1
turn loose and tight. I also have posted videos of this engine running, the
MSD CD box conversion, and a how to for setting the timing on the
Magnapower ignitions.
It’s hard to get the details across in the space allowed. The issue I see
is the impellers mercury is supplying for some chrysler/force apps are
taller than the housing by .010 – .020. Or about the gasket thickness
that’s not originally used. You could speculate that mercury screwed up or
a revised spec calls for a gasket. In any case I see where many good
engines are going to get cooked because of this. I am going to make a
gasket so the clearance is about 0 to a few thou.
not to change the subject, but has the ice melted off yet?..lake at 5400
are ice free but the lakes at 8000 feet at still frz..like the video..glade
you mentions the small hole in housing….
Well when you get time take a look at the water pump. some time’s the
cooling passages can get blocked with salt or mud. And if that is the case
then you will need to pull the power head and cylinder head and clean out
the passages.
I have a warning about leaving the gasket out between the housing and wear
plate. On my 76 105 at first it pumped weak. Took out the impeller, found
no gasket. The phenolic core of the impeller was rubbing hard enough on the
wear plate to melt it. The top and bottom of the impeller was worn, like
burned. The tips of the vanes looked normal. I measured the housing and the
new impeller and found without the gasket there is .015″ of crush on the
impeller. In this case you must have a proper gasket.
Did you take the pin out of the shift rod? If the paint has changed colors
you have severely over heated the engine. Before you get to heavy into it
do a compression check and see if its junk or not.
I have a 1978 115hp model 115b8b I like to know how do I remove the lower
half I removed 7 bolts but it doesn’t come sliding off? my engine went from
white to brown and and the rubber hose on side of engine is dark brown but
seeing through it u could see the water spitting up not steady stream so I
wanna replace water pump. Am I going to have issues that I need to sand
down housing too or what do I need to do special for this engine?? and how
do I get it off.
Ben, I am having a problem with my 9.9 Sea King making a thunking noise, it
seems like a cylinder might be missing, but I am thinking maybe loose
chunks of rubber might be grabbing the drive shaft… any comment?
Great video. If you have the time this year, I would love to see your
procedure on how to change / replace the seals in the lower unit gears on
some of the 1950’s & 60’s Johnson and Evinrude motors (5 to 18 HP range). I
have a 1958 model and some water is getting mixed with the lube inside
during normal use. Thanks!
Um well my Chrysler part’s book show’s no gasket between the housing and
wear plate for the 105 hp motor,but show’s a gasket under the wear plate.
In this video the water pump job was demonstrated on a 9.9-15hp motor! and
there is no gasket used in any Chrysler water pumps 4.4-35hp motor’s. It
sound’s like in the case of your motor that the housing is not deep enuff
for the impeller, or was run out of the water.
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Very helpful I have a 70 something chrysler 10hp. I know NOW that its 74 or
newer because it has a 6 spline impeller. Thanks. I have to replace the
starter the one I have looks in bad shape. Do you know where I can look for
one that I can just bolt on.
i have a 9.9 chrysler 1973or72 out board there is three little holes
above the propeller that leaks oil should that happen
Very helpful, Thanks
Question. I did everything you described in this vid on a mid 70’s 6hp
Chrysler outboard. When putting the two halves back together something has
happened to the gear shift linkage. The prop spins in neutral and reverse,
and the lever won’t shift into forward. Any idea what happened and how to
remedy it? 🙂 Thanks!
I got this lower end back together the other day and ran it. I think what
was throwing me off in the measurements, was the mold flashing on the
impeller. After I got the pump assembled with the impeller greased, the
effort to turn the drive shaft increased reasonably between housing bolts 1
turn loose and tight. I also have posted videos of this engine running, the
MSD CD box conversion, and a how to for setting the timing on the
Magnapower ignitions.
It’s hard to get the details across in the space allowed. The issue I see
is the impellers mercury is supplying for some chrysler/force apps are
taller than the housing by .010 – .020. Or about the gasket thickness
that’s not originally used. You could speculate that mercury screwed up or
a revised spec calls for a gasket. In any case I see where many good
engines are going to get cooked because of this. I am going to make a
gasket so the clearance is about 0 to a few thou.
For what ????
That makes sense, where can you purchase that stuff?
Nope there is still 4 feet of ice up north, going to be 4 more week’s at
least….
Hi sorry but i do not have any experience with the big motor’s i will see
what i can find out.
not to change the subject, but has the ice melted off yet?..lake at 5400
are ice free but the lakes at 8000 feet at still frz..like the video..glade
you mentions the small hole in housing….
Yes i do to the splines.
Well when you get time take a look at the water pump. some time’s the
cooling passages can get blocked with salt or mud. And if that is the case
then you will need to pull the power head and cylinder head and clean out
the passages.
I have a warning about leaving the gasket out between the housing and wear
plate. On my 76 105 at first it pumped weak. Took out the impeller, found
no gasket. The phenolic core of the impeller was rubbing hard enough on the
wear plate to melt it. The top and bottom of the impeller was worn, like
burned. The tips of the vanes looked normal. I measured the housing and the
new impeller and found without the gasket there is .015″ of crush on the
impeller. In this case you must have a proper gasket.
Did you take the pin out of the shift rod? If the paint has changed colors
you have severely over heated the engine. Before you get to heavy into it
do a compression check and see if its junk or not.
I have a 1978 115hp model 115b8b I like to know how do I remove the lower
half I removed 7 bolts but it doesn’t come sliding off? my engine went from
white to brown and and the rubber hose on side of engine is dark brown but
seeing through it u could see the water spitting up not steady stream so I
wanna replace water pump. Am I going to have issues that I need to sand
down housing too or what do I need to do special for this engine?? and how
do I get it off.
Could this be the problem with my west bend getting to hot but still
cooling well as far as I can see?
Ben, I am having a problem with my 9.9 Sea King making a thunking noise, it
seems like a cylinder might be missing, but I am thinking maybe loose
chunks of rubber might be grabbing the drive shaft… any comment?
Well let me know if it works.
Had no time to take à l
Sorry but no! use the liquid stuff,with a cork gasket there will be a gap
in the water pump and that is a NO/NO..
Great video. If you have the time this year, I would love to see your
procedure on how to change / replace the seals in the lower unit gears on
some of the 1950’s & 60’s Johnson and Evinrude motors (5 to 18 HP range). I
have a 1958 model and some water is getting mixed with the lube inside
during normal use. Thanks!
It might be, have you looked at the water pump? is your motor used in fresh
or salt water?
Well i do have a 9.5 Johnson that need’s seal’s ,so i will try to make a
video but it will be a long video.
Instead of using the liquid gasket stuff, in place will gaskets made of
cork work?
how much do i need to take off of the housing? how many 1000th’s need to
come off? very helpful video. thank you
NO more how to vid’s i am done! Just kidding :>)
Well that will depend on how much it is warped, start with .0002 and go
from there.
Cool, thanks!
Will cork gaskets work?
thanks for this great video- great tips
You can quit right after you do the Tillotson carb rebuild.
Sorry for that hate my iPhone sometimes . But had no time to look at it
yet, as far as I now he is only used in fresh water .
Um well my Chrysler part’s book show’s no gasket between the housing and
wear plate for the 105 hp motor,but show’s a gasket under the wear plate.
In this video the water pump job was demonstrated on a 9.9-15hp motor! and
there is no gasket used in any Chrysler water pumps 4.4-35hp motor’s. It
sound’s like in the case of your motor that the housing is not deep enuff
for the impeller, or was run out of the water.
All of your videos are really great and helpful! Thank you.
Any auto part’s store.
More “How To” vids!