This video is in three parts: 1 – passenger side and outside/recirc acutators 2 – drivers side: http://tinyurl.com/anjxtke 3 – the issue I had: http://tinyur…
2006 Chevy Impala SS Blend Door actuator changeout – Ticking/Clacking fix
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2006, Actuator, Blend, changeout., Chevy, Door, Impala, Ticking/Clacking
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yeah did one and now right off the recirc is doing it and the driver side
is dead. no noises no nothing and no heat either.. I guess replace them
all?
GREAT VIDEO! Will probably save me several hundred dollars.
This was a fantastic effort. I’ve done this several times now and still got
ideas from the video. Is there a place I can go to download the video to
save it? I don’t trust you tube to be there the next time I have to
re-visit the under dash episode.
Is there another actuator somewhere near the blend door actuator? I changed
that one and it still makes noise.
My husband and I removed the actuator that was clicking. It seems to be the
a/c circular actuator. Because it was behind glove box and I could see
somewhat of the left side actuator. The air circulation is still working
but the heater doesn’t get hot, a/c gets cold. My husband wants to know if
it will cause problems just leaving it unplugged. Or at least leaving it
unplugged until we can get a new one.
Troy, question for you. I replaced this and the car still makes the loud
clicking noise? I just replaced the one on the passenger side just to the
right of the blower. Thank you for the video too. Helped a ton
How much does it cost to buy these actuators for an 2007 Impala LT. The
person I bought it from had a the same knocking noise. I wanna fix this
myself cause i know the dealership gone cost me
While removal of under-dash panels on driver side does not gain access to
actuator, it does provide sight line to the work. Lock tab on electrical
connector releases easily with a gentle pry from a small flat-blade
screwdriver, then lift up on screwdriver to remove connector; (nice to see
the engineer didn’t decide to make this a sadistic puzzle). Actuator
mounting screws (2) are 5mm hex-head; 7/32″ is also close enough. I used a
1/4″-drive air ratchet to remove the screws; once you feel the socket on
the screw head, press the trigger and whiz it out. Re-install will take
more skill.
Will it run your battery down because mine stays running with car of also
Troy, So what about the actuator for the back passenger seat ? Is there one
under the console yet, I do not have an Impala I have a Cadillac Sls yet
due to it being a GM vehicle I can expect some variables…whats your
thoughts on back seat act?
Are they recirc actuator the same as the door blend act? I can’t seem to
find a recirc act for my 07 impala… My driver side blows warm air and
passenger blows cold while the controls are both on max heat.
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!!!! On my 2006 monte carlo I’ve been hearing that same
noise in the same location on my passengers side and didn’t know what the
hell it was. I took the interior of the area apart and I seen the same part
that you took off and a fan as well but didn’t know which one of em that it
could be. It’s been draining my battery down because once I turn the car
off I usually hear that ticking sound for about 2 minutes. What is the
purpose of the actuator anyway???
thank you!
Troy, thanks for the video. I fixed my wife’s ’06 Impala yesterday, and she
thinks I’m a hero! Like the person below, I used a 1/4″ fingertip ratchet
for the screws. I did need to power the actuators to get the socket lined
up so it would fit on the shaft and match up with the screw mounting holes.
I used a motorcycle battery and two wires with alligator clips. By swapping
the wires on the motor leads you can get the motor to run forward or
backward. I sure didn’t want to open up the case and move gears around. I
read reviews about the AC Delco actuators are better than Dorman, for the
same price. Found mine on Amazon with free shipping.
Troy – Thanks once more for the time you took to share your fix with the
Impala community! Followed your directions and replace the 2 passenger
side actuators. My 2006 Impala lasted this long – 7 years – before the
dreaded clicking sound. I almost brought to dealer but decided to search
internet… and to my surprise found a myriad of related clicking issues.
Couple issues I encountered during the repair-
1) was removing the far right actuator (inside/outside air controller) –
more of a space issue to remove and replace those screws – of course having
the right sized tools is critical…
2) Placing the new actuator back on the “arm” and realign with the screw
holes was a challenge as the arm had to be lined up exactly due to the
notches to fit back into the actuator. And you cant really move the gear
on the actuator due to the internal gear configuration (don’t want to
strip). What I ended up doing was opening up the actuator and lining up
the external opening (where the arm connects to) with the bad actuator’s
position. Problem solved…
Took me 3 hrs to complete the job. Worth every minute! Everything works
like new! Big thanks!
Thanks, I’ve been trying to figure out how to get to my driver’s side
actuator for the last 6 months. I tried your contortionist position and it
worked relatively well. Luckily no reversal issues. I swear they designed
this car so the average DIYer is forced to take it to the dealer. Anybody
figure out how to get the serpentine belt off, they should post it.
Anyhow, thanks again.
Good explen helps seve mony tanks
Thanks so much bro for taking your time to explain everything.
thanks this vid Helped me save $400 in labor
Yes, they are inexpensive enough that it would be a good idea to, you never
know when the others that you didn’t change may fail. I changed one and
then a month or so later another one failed.
Are all three of these blend door actuators the same part number? I want to
make sure I get the right own, take the glovebox out and get to work on
replacing it (I’ll recreate it touch both actuators behind the glovebox to
determine which one needs to be replaced.)
Ive got a 2010 impala and had the same problem. Expensive fix the first
time at the auto shop. You’re video has saved me a lot of hassle and money.
Thanks Troy g
I just fixed mines toady, I lost one of the bolts though : (
what city are you in?
Thanks for posting this, that click was driving me crazy…it was a pretty
easy fix but a little cramp. Now its back to normal, thanks.
This is so helpful, going to save me a bunch of money! To you and everyone
else that post vidoes like this, a huge THANK YOU!
Does this fix the problems with cold and hot air blowing out the vents. If
i put the selections on heat the passenger side blows hot when im driving
but goes back ice cold when i stop and the driver side continues to be cold
even when im driving it never switches to heat. I know its not heater core
or improper fluid levels could it be what u replaced cause my car doesnt
click or pop.
what an AMAZING VIDEO! you rock bro all other vids suck big time!
You could always try your local dealership but I’m not sure what they will
charge. Got mine from Amazon for $25 plus shipping. Another good source is
gmpartsdirect which is currently charging the same.
5.5mm or 7/32″
Not sure – the easiest thing to do is drop the glovebox which gives you
access to the passenger side and outside air actuators and then run the
fan. If you can’t tell by ear which one is clicking you should be able to
feel it
No, you may have a comfort issue depending on what actuator it is. If it’s
the outside/recirc actuator and it’s stuck in recirc you may not notice it.
If it is stuck on outside and you are in the north that may change your
mind come winter time.
I can’t thank you enough for this video. I started talking to the dealer
about this because my back has given me so much trouble I didn’t want to
work under the dash. They made it sound like a mystery and it would cost
$300 and up depending on which one even though I gave them specific
symptoms. I had the passenger blend actuator out in 15 min and back in in 5
min. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
Awesome video!! Everyone else made it seems so hard. Thank you.
I think it would be wiser to get the part from the dealer… Then do it
yourself to save the hassel
I normally dont post information. But you did a great job with this video.
I ran out to my car and took out the driver’s side actuator in 10 minutes.
It has been bugging me for a year. The dealer told me the dash needed to
come out and so does the repair manuals. No way am I spending big repair
money for such a cheap part. I know now to look for the Korea part when
replacing, also. Absolutely awesome. Thanks so much!!
To be honest I am not 100% sure. I did some googling around when I was
getting ready to change mine and saw several references to doing that
calibration procedure. I’m guessing if you don’t when you operate the
controls it may not know to drive the motors to either full heat or full
cool after you change out the actuators.
Is disconnecting the battery necessary for this job? Or it really doesn’t
matter if you do or not? Looking to change mine today.
Hey man which one do I change if it only clicks in outside air mode????
Please
where did you find the outside/recirc actuator, i need to buy one??
Great video I had to do this on mine
Troy I want to thank u for posting this. someone changed one for me on
driver side and he took down the entire dash. But few months after that it
started acting up again I think he put on wrong or something cause I had to
run temp control backwards, but anyway I had a friend to replace two and
this helped us sooooo much only took down glove box and under steering
wheel …..Everything is good now ….But if the one behind the passenger
goes out how do u recommend replacing that one.
Very good video. Very informative. That is crazy the motor was wired
backwards.
The furthest to the right hand side of the vehicle
Yes, all three are the same
I was very disappointed with the motor being wired backwards. Hopefully
that’s been straightened out…