1999 Chevy S-10 4×4 4.3L Water Pump Change

1999 Chevy S-10 4×4 4.3L Water Pump Change

Video of the replacement of my water pump on my 1999 Chevrolet S-10 with a 4.3L engine. Old pump was worn out and weeping, replaced it with a re-manufactured…

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mandingocell says:

very helpfull video

rounddancefan1 says:

I have a 2000 bravado same motor 4.3L Vortec, I just bought it, well
everything was ok, we recently went threw a car wash & ever since the belt
has been noisy, I replaced a idler pully top pully, but still it is so
noisy, the sound seems to be coming from the A/C pump, the belt looks
fairly new,, we also took the belt off and started it with the belt off, it
was ok, but soon as the belt went back on, it start making noise, also once
in awhile we smell coolant inside the bravada and hear water slushing
around inside the dash. thinking about replacing the water pump & taking
off the A/C unit & put a idler pully the way your is set up. Oh also
thinking about replacing heater core.

David G says:

This video help me to replace the water pump on my 1997 K1500 4.3. Not
quite the same but close enough. One whack (or two) on the fan nut didn’t
do it for me. I kept at it for 5 minutes and grabbed the belt to help it
stop moving but finally got it. The hardest part was getting the bolts
started on the replacement pump, it’s tight and down low on the 4.3. TYVM.

mikevmpr3 says:

i have a fan attached and am having problems removing it. what do i do?

Shockern003 says:

how long did this take you?

benekaiwi1 says:

No my s10 is a bit newer than yours. My s10 is a 2003 zr2. You need a
special tool to remove the fan.

spelunkerd says:

I hope you like Alberta, Ben. I live in Lethbridge. If you live in Calgary
you’ll want that fan to keep the engine cool in city traffic. Summers at
high latitude have long days, but here on the prairies we get our share of
hot days as well. What’s your day job?

FergusAndRex says:

@TeDuaMalakie The EGR motor is front and center on the engine…if it had
teeth, it would bite you as its almost pointed right at you on the front
center top of the motor. As for the knock sensor, probably hiding under the
exhaust manifold screwed into the block, probably not far from a freeze
plug. Thanks for the question.

benekaiwi1 says:

Wtf. Fan shroud to water pump? You skipped the fan clutch and fan removal.
Not very helpful eh.

TeDuaMalakie says:

hello, i would like to see if you know where both the knock sensor and EGR
sensor are located in your car !as long as i have the same engine of yours
in my 98 blazer but i’m really having hard times to locate where those 2
sensors are really hiding . thank you .

SnoopofAbenberg says:

Thanks for the info.

AutumnsList says:

to loosen the belt you would go to the left, but if you push it to the
right it will actually tighten up the belt even more. now place a huge
wrench on the shaft nut and smack it to the left with a little sledge
hammer while holding the belt tool to the right (two people make this
easier, but i did it with just myself). Note: I also put cardboard on both
sides of the wrench so it wouldn’t damage anything. I also hit the wrench
to the right a couple times, which always seems to help. good luck.

walshmonster2005 says:

I had to do that on my 4.3 V6 a couple years ago! Great running engine!

Tom Sloan says:

u sould of painted that pump . it will rust . i just pump one on my S10 4.3

Ricky Sharpe says:

Radiator could have a leak. Hoses could not be securely placed.

Turbo231 says:

@kolbpilot Not sure…my truck never came with AC, so its just the factory
idler pulley.

Turbo231 says:

True…however the stuff in the video is “mixes with anything”.

Mario Fontalvo says:

Nasty hit your radiator core took there when pulling out the water pump!

VE9REJ says:

Good Vid dude , Man I miss my old s10

Turbo231 says:

Make sure the system has no air bubbles impeding flow, make sure your
system didn’t kick up some debris that slowed down the radiator, make sure
everything is somewhat clean on the outside too. There should be plenty of
cooling capacity on the S-10.

Turbo231 says:

@kolbpilot I would do the auxiliary fan…they can be had for about 100
bucks, you’d only need a manual on/off switch if you are pretty much the
only driver, but mechanical fans are loud and annoying. This truck is an
eastern seaboard truck and did fine, but with no AC and not a lot of hot
city driving, it was no issue. My 1991 S-10 2.8 also had the fan removed,
but it had AC and I used a cheap fan to pull air across the condenser, it
was more then enough.

TeDuaMalakie says:

@Turbo231 paused this video on 1:31 ,right there ..i know what u talking
about ! apparently we have slightly different engines, mine does not have
anything right there except the thermostat hose,i do not even have any
device looks like that installed on my engine. my engine is 4.3 vortec 4X4
, its weird tho.. . anyway thank you , i have annoyed you enough so far !
🙂

Veikra says:

@TeDuaMalakie on my 1500 i didnt feel any difference in power but it’s a
LOT quieter when accelerating and it warms up faster in the winter.

Turbo231 says:

Yes…and they aren’t even nuts…they’re bolts. Oh well. Nugget for the
“best of” videos. :p

ducklandwikeno says:

Oh I meant the raditaitor dran plug.

Auszug21 says:

i despise factory clamps with a passion!.

Turbo231 says:

Probably 2 hours…hard to say, never did it before and shooting video
while working takes up a lot of time.

Turbo231 says:

@Veikra Agreed. Got tired of it sounding like a 747 sitting on the tarmac
on a cold winter day.

jeffinpickering says:

Good video; nice work. Add: bolts should be checked/re-tightened once
warmed up to temp. One other thing folks may find is that the system may
have to be burped more than once to get all the air out; a good idea is to
get the passenger front higher than the driver’s front when burping.

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