Edit: parts are now about $60 on eBay, more info below.
Make sure to RESET/CLEAR YOUR CODES after install or it’ll still show the code and be slow.
First gen (2007-2012) Acura RDX will sometimes pop P2263 and an SH-AWD error. There are different causes. Your dealer will tell you to install a new $7000+ turbocharger to fix it, because they don’t sell the individual parts on the Mitsubishi made turbo that break down. You can often buy the parts and fix it yourself.
The most common cause is the VGT actuator wearing down. Some people call it the waste gate but that’s not correct. It’s made of a metal that is too soft. You can order the piece custom made from a machine shop for about $300 and replace it yourself, without removing anything from your car but the intercooler shroud. You’ll need a couple 10mm wrenches, a couple screwdrivers, some wire (to prevent losing pieces), and some patience.
More info on this, and other P2263 causes and fixes, here:
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-problems-fixes-160/p2263-turbo-problems-861782/
Replacement parts:
My VGT Actuator was purchased from Southeastern Enterprises, lrt350@gmail.com or 905-320-5191 (owner is Darren Gauryletz). He’s a Canadian fabricator that makes the part from scratch from a slightly harder grade metal than OEM, so it shouldn’t wear like the original. Mine was $300, prices are dropping though.
Others have had luck using Ebay for about $60. Search for “Acura RDX Turbo Variable Flow Actuator Eye Bolt.” I’m not sure if the threading fits all RDXs. Make sure it’s good metal (mine is 4140 and threading is m6x1.0 left hand). Too soft and it’ll wear again; too hard maybe it’ll damage/wear the linkage.
OEM part (will likely wear down): search for “49389-18470 U.S.A.”
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Just finished this repair today. I highly recommend removing the heat shield (3 – 10mm bolts) that sits just below this area as it gives you access to the retainer that holds/inserts into the hole of the actuator part that you are replacing. It is spring loaded and when pulled back assists in attaching the new part. Hope this helps.
Good video, thanks
Does the old made a rattling sound?
Removing the 5 bolts and couple hoses on the intercooler, and pulling it out of the way would make this decades easier…
I couldn’t get the clip on do y’all think I’ll be fine?
I am also getting the same error on my car. But I don't know how to fix it I am looking for someone who can help me.
I live in Worcester, MA please let me know if anyone can help in fixing this error of my car.
Como. Se llama. La pieza
Thank you much
Our 2010 RDX with 190K miles has a P2263 code, check emission error, SH-AWD error, and CEL lights on. I have been driving with the code for a few months and finally replaced the actuator last weekend ($17 on eBay). Took 2 hours and I had to give up on the C-clip, as I couldn't get it in. I felt the actuator is tight enough w/o the C-clip, plus it's very easy to re-tighten, if ever needed. The code and CEL are gone. Thanks for the video, still useful 4 years later.
Found this in 2023, and I can verify it works! My 2010 RDX only has 100k on it but was throwing the code, Acura only suggests turbo replacement since they don’t actually make the turbo. Found this part on Amazon for $20, took me an hour to replace. Thanks for the video and helpful tips.
Thanks for the video. Your solution seems to work.
I just did this today. Car runs better but still have check emission and sh-awd lights on.
I just got an RDX and it has this exact issue – so glad I don’t need a new turbo!
Awesome work bruv! I think mine is the same issue, I checked this morning and gave it a good wiggle, it's for sure loose and I can see a small gap
Wish I read more comments before attempting this tonight. I removed the intercooler after starting to get frustrated. That itself is not a big job, 3 bolts, 5 hoses, and an electrical clip.
I used, for lack of a better word, a grabber (push button on the end with metal grippy fingers on the other end) a lot. It helped me get the new part and clip positioned correctly for installation. I used fishing line for holding the clip and new part, however the old parts did just fall to the floor since I didn’t bother to toe them up. Don’t know how I could’ve. The wrench I dropped did need to get fished out.
Other worthy mentions would be how I used a 12mm wrench on its side about at the halfway mark on the linkage to pry it back enough to get the part on. This took maybe 30 mins to finally get the new part on there. Once I figured this out got it 2nd try.
It’s really tight in there. If you have huge hands it’s gonna be tough. My hands are too big for this kind of work, and they’re only a large glove lol. Good luck.
Great video and comments here. Just finished this repair. Took me about 8 hrs across 3 sessions. Patience is key, it’s easy to get frustrated with the limited access and light. Study closely the intake runner on the backside in relation to the actuator arm travel; I found there was a sweet spot where the eye bolt would slip behind and the angled corners on helped with clearance. Get a small bright flashlight.
Here’s what worked for me. I’d definitely remove the turbo heatshield first thing in retrospect. I wired the actuator arm to finagle the eye bolt off and on, but limit it’s travel to the top 1/3 or so. That was the sweet spot for me removing and installing the eye bolt. Wire the new eye bolt and C clip. I dropped them countless times.
Feel around on the back for the C clip and rotate it with your finger or small screw driver where the tall spot (check some pictures) is on the left side of the eye bolt. I slipped a small screw driver between the clip and eye bolt and pried it off. I hadn’t wired it and at the time I didn’t care.
The eye bolt slipped off and pushed out horizontally to the right with the threads on the right, while wiggling the actuator arm up and down.
I slid the new eye bolt in from the right side with the threaded post pointed roughly 2-3 oclock while moving the actuator arm to find the right gap between the lever and the intake runner behind. It’s tight but mine eventually went. Doing it one handed was tough. Patience. I greased my eye bolt as well which made it tough to hold.
Replacing the C clip was tough. What eventually worked for me was using needle nose vice grips to hold the clip on edge and push it on from the left at about 10 oclock angle. I had to reuse the original clip. The new one was just too stiff to push on all the way.
As far as repositioning the barrel and lock nuts, loosening the lock nut made about 2.5 rotations to the bottom. The barrel nut about 8.5 rotations up to free the eye bolt. When I reinstalled, I used the wire on the lever to pull up to meet the barrel nut. After starting the barrel nut to hold the whole thing in place, I turned the lock nut 2.5 turns up and then turned the barrel nut down to meet it. Luckily when the barrel nut met the lock nut, the factory marking was in the same place as before (at least that is what I’m telling myself).