Replacing front control arm, bushings, and ball joints on my 2004 Volvo S80. We also fixed the clicking sound caused by the axle spline. Thanks to my good fr…
Replacing front control arm, bushings, and ball joints on my 2004 Volvo S80. We also fixed the clicking sound caused by the axle spline. Thanks to my good fr…
You must be logged in to post a comment.
){kind=link}
After doing this with my old man in the garage on jack stands I will say
this is not the easiest of jobs. #1 I did not realize but make sure when
you jack the car up you have each side up evenly. Otherwise you will be DIY
dummies like us and not realize the tension on the sway bar end link is
going to mess everything up for you. We actually ended up pulling out the
CV axle knuckle and killing the sway bar end link which probably needed
replacing anyways after 170k. Luckily we found someone who could help give
us the breakdown on how to get it back in.
Again I will say make sure each side is jacked up evenly. Make sure you
have the torque settings for putting everything back to specifications. I
will we didn’t on the bolts going into the control arm. Because you have to
use hand tools to get to them in order to avoid jacking up the engine. I
HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the sway bar extension link atleast removing one
side. All the video’s on youtube regarding these models do not show that
you basically have to pulls back the rotor in order and pop out the end of
the CV axle. Then with a pry bar attached to rope stepping on by foot to
get tension had to lower down reattached the CV axle then slowly move the
ball joint cap into place.
If you are going to do this in a garage on jack stands. Lots of shops
recommend always doing ball joints when you do new control arms. I will
have to agree, I couldn’t imagine the nightmare of having to fit the
control arm back on the ball joint and thread it right. Most the shops that
don’t I can’t say for sure but are usually the ones that won’t tell you
because they want to call you up and get the markup on the part.
We attached the Ball joint to the new control arm before attaching. Like I
said we have to pry it down and let it slowly back into place. Some people
recommend hammering the top of the ball joint back into the socket. We may
have done it wrong but again used the pry bar and rope to press down by one
person so the 2 ball joint bolts could be threaded correctly and pulled up.
After finishing we put the tires on so weight of the car would press them
down. Drove around the block and took off each tire again and tightened
with torque wrench to recommended pounds we found.
This job took us 2 days and about 10 hours. Cost us for a freelance
mechanic to come show us how to put back in the CV Knuckle we pulled out by
not having the car jacked up level and really not taking off at least one
side of the sway bar extension link. Also hammering out the old ball joint
was very tough.
Sorry for the long post but if I can help anyone avoid some of our mistakes
and make it easier want to pass on what I learned at least. Lastly I must
say I am not a mechanic 2 years ago I couldn’t tell you anything about
cars. But you-tube video’s, and blogs with people giving advice like this
has allowed me to do so many things it is unreal.
What do you mean by using air hammer to push the ball join in? My air
hammer only comes with a couple of chisel attachments. Wouldn’t that damage
ball joint?
ghatid, I installed a pair of brand new after market control arms which
came with new bushings already pressed in. I have mixed feeling about the
after market parts. It’s cost effective but I have already used the
warranty once and replaced the whole unit once within a year. I have never
try pressing bushings in and out before which you would have to do if you
want to keep the Volvo control arm. If I have to do it all over again, I
would pay the extra and use OEM Volvo parts.
What’s with so many people thinking you need to grease the axle splines ?,
do you think the axle should move ? no!, if it does then you haven’t
torqued the axle nut down correctly, 35nm and 90degrees… no grease!
I was thinking of doing this for my S80 (dealer says the bushings are
torn). What is your stance on re-using the old control arm and just
replacing the bushings? Thanks for the video, it’s great!
geez you like to do it the hard way…way too many steps no need to remove
the axle bolt or brake assemblies from the steering knuckle…
They sell attachments for air hammer that’s not shape like a chisel, but an
old dull chisel could work too. You are using the air hammer to push the
backing plate (metal) of the ball joints upward. This will help set/sit the
ball joints in place, then you can bolt it on. Most people push the ball
joints up at hard and far as they could by hand then rely on the bolts to
tighten and further driving the ball joins up. The will very likely stripe
the bolts and get you into more mess. Good luck.
just loosen the two inner bolts, put a jack onder the control arm to
support it, loosen the ball joint nut, smack the control arm near the ball
joint a few times until it pops loose…lower the control arm with the jack
after removing the ball joint nut.remove two inner bolts…attach new CA,
two inner bolts first…use the jack to raise the CA install the ball joint
nut..torque as needed…way too many unneeded steps here..
Thanks for posting! If I dont have an air hammer, should I avoid trying to
remove and replace the ball joint? (get it done by a pro?) Also, why not
disconnect the link from the strut to get better maneuverability? And …
more importantly … haha … what is the song used in this clip?
Nice video. We Volvo owners need more videos like yours and mine to help
other owners. Thanks for sharing.
I just did another of the same install for a friend and had a hard time
with the BJ nut just spinning with the BJ when I tried to tighten it. The
trick, jack the car up, place jack stands for safety, use another jack
place it directly under the control arm, then release the floor jack to
drop the weight of the car onto the jack under the control arm. This set
the BJ perfectly in place then I was able to tighten the nut with an impact
wrench in seconds. No need to even hold the bolt with Allen k
Excellent work! Much appreciated!
outstanding video! thanks. i ran into a problem where the ball joint nut
was seized to the bolt – i used my BFH and got it off but the BJ stayed up
in the knuckle. i wasn’t planning on replacing the joint so can i just put
the new control arm on and tighten it down or do i need to get that joint
out first? thanks!