Head Installation: 4 to 6 Hours. ($800 / $2,800 / $5,300)
Website tutorial (written instructions): http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyinstructions/head_gasket.htm
In this video I installed the head on a Volvo with an inline 5 motor. This directly applies to the Volvo 850 and Volvo S70, V70 cars. You would have had the head removed for the following reasons:
– Head gasket replacement, blown head gasket, over heated motor.
– Replace bent valves.
– Replace burnt valves.
– Replace valve stem seals.
– Replace a damaged head.
Here are links to related videos:
Head removal: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtVLpXpk_U8
Cleaning and pre-install: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyoFDrbRVuE
Timing installation: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edKDOMQ11VU
How to rebuild a head yourself: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2D5EnSF4RM
Torque Valves:
– Head bolts, 15 ft lbs, 44 ft lbs, then 130 degrees.
– Cam cover bolts: 18 Nm / 13 Ft Lbs. (I was told that VADIS has this wrong).
– Throttle body bolts: 15 in lbs.
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Question! Hopefully you have an answer. I have a 1998 Volvo S70 T5 (2.3L 5cyl Turbo). Just recently the camshaft sensor went out, got chewed and grinded up. Wasn't sure why it happened but it knocked off the magnetic reader piece on the old one and did the same exact thing to the brand new one I just put in! I'm lost as to why it has now destroyed 2 camshaft sensors in a day
Oh god that looks like a lot of work. I may have to do this job and I never did it before.. Do you recommend a more experince person does it or help or just dive in and do it and learn as you go.
EXCELLENT VIDEO
is that cam cover torque correct?? Inch pounds or FOOT pounds?
I have rebuilt my Volvo 1999 v70 awd with vvt, head was re-done by a professional when I locked down my cams I used a cam lock tool. My oil pump timing mark was directly on in between the two timing marks in the valley, my two overhead cams were locked when I torqued down the cover, I reset my timing belt & my vvt that I did not touch when removed, the position of the vvt clutch was 1 and a 1/2 to the left, when I placed my timing belt all marks lined up, the crank stayed stable, I turned the crank two full revolutions clockwise, my marks re-aligned correctly. When I started the car it fired, ran for 5 seconds like it was on 1 piston then stalled. I'm going to do a compression test to see if they're all equal, does this mean my valves are okay & can you tell me how to check to see if there is fuel going through the ejectors to the cylinders, I hear my fuel pump working (I did not disconnect the fuel line at all near the intake manifold). Thank you very much, waiting on your reply from a grateful Canadian.
Thanks Robert for the awesome video's. I was able to get my timing belt changed, but found the cam seals leaking oil. Are the steps for removing the cam cover same for a 2007 Volvo S60 ? Worried because my car has VVT on the intake and exhaust cam
Hey Robert im having an issue reinstalling the cam cover. i pulled it to swap in na cams with new seals. somehow its hangin up in the back right hand corner by the engine mount. what could be causing this? I have the cams facing straight up for the moment and ive moved the sam seals alittle to make sure they where not hanging up on that
After watching your videos and reading your instructions I was able to replace a burnt head gasket on my v70(learned my lesson, no hot piping a turbo) I appreciate you taking to time to put this info up.
Robert thanks so much for the video!
I have put my hands on my Volvo many times following your videos, pcv valve, and what not, I just pulled the head took it to the machine shop and next week I'm expecting to install the head and fire up hopefully, I had all I take valves bent and I'm hoping with your amazing videos to get the car started again omgPlease let me know how to align the valves on s70 , God bless. And never quit posting your cool videos, cheers
Hi Robert how do you align the cams on the S70 1998, love your videos, thanks
I'm having trouble getting the lifters to compress. what would you recommend to compress them. only one compresses. the rest seem to stop against something instead of getting progressively harder to push as you squeeze them.
thank Robert excellent video
Hi robert, i have done a majority of the small jobs on my old vovlo s70t5 98 including oil change, pcv, heater core ect with the help of your videos. my next tasks are to be timing belt and water pump, is it worth changing the gasket and doing the top end rebuild at this time? the engine is only on 105000 miles but i feel this car has maybe had a harder life than most as the pcv was full to the brim.I read that i would need a "harmonic balance puller" to do this job but something tells me the advice came from a volvo tech, your veiw on this?
hey Robert do you have an email i have to Volvo cars and i have a few questions can you help me
Robert, I noticed you only applied anaerobic gasket sealant on the cover of the head. It's not necessary to apply between the block and head? I am about to put it back together but spring break with family has prolonged this fun task. P.S. Thanks again in advance from me and my Volvo 850 turbo brick wagon.
Robert, in your infinite experiences with these P80s,
how often is is just a head gasket?
how often is it a head gasket and head?
how often is the block warped?
Just curious… Hope all is good, brother!
Hi there:)
In my audi a4 b6 2001y 1.8t i need to clean lifters.
When i drain oil and clean spring Inside lifter the next step should be to add oil inside lifter or engine refill it automaticly???
And when I put back lifters again into engine I should wait 30-60 min before start engine? (I hear that it can damage engine if I didnt wait 30 or more minutes) waiting for answer:)
Great job Robert!
Brother, you have taken me from, I haven't even changed my own oil to almost done reassembling my engine after doing some valve work and replacing the head gasket, so much thanks. I took apart more hoses and electrical plugs than was required to accommodate the lack of tools i started with. I dont know where a lot of the extra pieces go, I've been looking through your videos and am having trouble finding one that talks about the peripheral parts. My Haynes manual doesn't have many pictures and I've been on matthewsvolvosite a good amount looking. Any suggestions? Thanks again, ~Mike
Just noting: 135° is actually halfway between 90 and 180.
Compass heading of perfect SE.
The heater hose/ ptc fix is still working wonders, btw.
I have burnt ~1 qt in 6000 miles and she just ticked to over 282k miles.
Love the vids and am considering replacing my gal's 5 speed N/A head gasket.
My only prior twin cam head experience was on the 1988 16v GTi.. she still fires right up.
Hi I have a 1999 Volvo v70r 2.3t and i had the exhaust valves out of cylinder 2 burn up so i had to take the head off but i'm now finally putting it back together but i was wondering if the timing procedure is the same for my car as the procedure shown in this video that you made.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6TL52R81V0&t=1330s
Hello Robert and thank you for wonderful movies! Have any questions shown you can help? Fixes a Volvo B5204T5 engine that has had registry breakdowns due to faulty water pump. How should I check to make sure all settings of camshafts / crankshaft / VVT unit? What is firing order of this engine? Maybe you have a movie with explanations for this? Have a good day Robert!Regards. Arne from Norway.
Hello Robert and thank you for wonderful movies! Regards. Arne from Norway.
hi robert
do you recommend buying a 1998 v70 with 350 000 km ?
the car is good shape
You are a great teacher Robert. Thanks for sharing with everyone!
Thanks for all the excellent videos Robert. I'm an experienced backyard mechanic and use the videos for any tips and as a recon if you will for the job I'm about to do.
Bought a $300 850 T5 wagon not running a couple of months ago, suspected blown head gasket. Sure enough my diagnosis was confirmed when I got the car home and put the compression tester on the engine. Fortunately, no obvious failures, just a tired old gasket someone had been nursing with head gasket in a bottle.
Just treated the old girl to a machined head, all new gaskets and seals on the top end and all new timing components.
Now I have an oil cooler line to replace and the exhaust manifold has to come off to be machined, it's to warped to seal and I plain forgot to check if it was flat before I bolted it to the head. The engine did fire up and run very well, just sounded like a tractor.
You guys in the states are lucky when working on the back of the head and exhaust, your brake booster is on the other side of the firewall. On right hand drive cars, the booster and master cylinder is right in the middle of the cam cover! I resort to removing the front two cross member bolts and rotating the cross member down at the front about six inches or so. Provides just enough clearance to get the manifold out from behind the head.
Wow Robert… I love the quality of your work! I've got a 95 940 Turbo wagon with 210K on it and it still purrs like a kitten. It's time for a timing belt change and at the same time, I'm gonna replace water pump and belt tensioner and replace the cam seals and maybe crank seals up front. Do you have any vids on this motor? 2.3L fuel injected 8V Turbo Single over head… I guess it's what's called the red block engine. Thanks my friend.
how many braker bars you destroyed hulk cheater bar you know you dont need one lol