In the U.S. 1979 – 1985 Toyota 4×4 trucks had Birfield joints in the front axles. (Also Toyota Land Cruisers and Suzkui Samurais had similar setups.) The sto…
In the U.S. 1979 – 1985 Toyota 4×4 trucks had Birfield joints in the front axles. (Also Toyota Land Cruisers and Suzkui Samurais had similar setups.) The sto…
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My first set of Longfields lasted almost a whole month, but warranty works
out. I’m currently on my 3rd set with 37 13 boggers. That being said while
waiting for my replacement short side, I did install a stocker and it
lasted almost an hour in the snow, almost.
Hey thanks pete thats just what i needed to know i ve got a diahatsu hijet
4×4 which i needed to get the cv end off you are a bloody rippa mate thanks
.
Thanks for the information.Thats very helpful.Keep posting videos their
very helpful…
love the tube idea!! Much better than beating the hell out of the start
with the a drift
Yup, it’s a one-time use kinda deal. Sometimes you get really lucky and it
pops off in one piece but most of the time it just shears. The factory
service manual tells you to drive the birf off with a brass drift on the
inner star which has the same effect. They are cheap and easy to get from
Toyota. You can also eliminate the circlip by putting a tack weld or two
down on the splines of the inner axle shaft near the carrier.
Thanks man, nice tip. I just took my axle apart to rebuild for a SAS on my
88′. Ill add this info into my ever expanding knowledge of all things
toyota pickup, lol.
Thanks from the Czech republic 🙂
@analog56x I ran 37 goodyear MTR’s for years on a couple of my rigs.
Longfields are the only way to go.
The wire clip inside the birf keeps the inner axle from walking into the
differential (it traps the inner axle from moving around. The birf is held
in place by the lockring on the end of the stub in the locking hub.). I’d
have to look at it, but I would guess you’re inner shaft is walking into
your side gear splines possibly disengaging? I’m not sure if can walk far
enough in to do that or not, just an idea…
nice video dude 🙂 i need to get a set of longs before i get my tires haha!
im planning on running 37’s on my 94 4runner 🙂
@WheeliePete yea 🙂 i like the warranty haha! if you break one, just call
Bobby, and he’ll send you a new one 🙂
@analog56x Bobby’s the man! longfieldsuperaxles(dot)com His inner hub gears
are nice too.
Toyota part # for the circlip is: 90520-27091 you can get them cheap
online. Just google the part #.
20 years of working on these. Removed hundreds of shafts. Never had one not
come apart. The short shaft side is the harder of the two because there is
less weight on the inner axle shaft, but they’ve always come off with
enough slamming. Sometimes you really have to beat the $&% out of them
though. I suppose the splines could have started to strip the inner star
and have jammed up, but that is pretty unlikely, usually the bell explodes
before splines let go on a stock birfield.
If your on the trail a good way to pull them apart is hitch receiver I blew
my short side birfield and had spare long side shafts and birfields
reciever got me fixed up
I’m gonna have to replace my birfield soon and had a question,is it typical
for the inner clip to break like that? If so do you know who will supply me
with just the clip?
Martacks as they are called are tack welds that will keep the inner axle
shaft from walking into the differential (which is exactly what the circlip
does by retaining the inner axle shaft inside the birf.) If you’re
replacing your birfields, just pony up the cash and get some Longfields and
never worry about it again.
@WheeliePete steering is accurate. I built a Keith black 22r same case set
up as ur buddy, 5.29 locked in both, it just likes to eat them. Rather than
breaking the birfs themselves it rips the joint out of them. At least I
don’t pay for them anymore lol.
awesome information thanks.I have a question maybe someone can help me.I
have a fj80 and when I step on the throttle it hits really hard on the
front differential.I took that front differential apart and nothing is
broken the only thing that I found was that the Birfield driver side axle
came apart without me trying to take apart from the clip.If that clip is
broken would that be making it to hit hard on the front differential?Thanks
guys
I am using a 2″ OD diameter pipe, ID 1.75″, 3 ft long. Fixed to the end
pipe I have a smaller coupler that fits up into the outer CV joint and
rests onto the Inner bearing. The tube and union combo weighs close to 15
pounds. The weight with the axle is close to 25 lbs. I’ve tried slamming
the CV joint down into the tube as well as slam both down together from
about a foot+ off the ground. Nothing. Direct hammering and brass drift
hasn’t worked either. I will try pressing it off next
Not to be a dick, but do you have your steering stops set up correctly?
Steering stops are CRITICAL, even with Longs, if you exceed the working
angle, or, more importantly, fail to balance the stops left to
leading/trailing you place insane loads on the joint and the inners. I have
a buddy that ran longs with 39″ iroks, full coil, 3RZ, 2.28+4.7 t-case
crawler buggy for years in rock/sand/snow with an ABUSIVE right foot and
they held up. What engine you running? You might just need D-60’s?
How is it whenever i have a one-of-a-kind problem / project with my old
yota, you already have a video covering how to do it?! Preciate the info
Pete. Btw…you kind of remind me of Wilson from the old Home Improvement
show…your face is never revealed! haha
should say….balance the stops left to right, leading/trailing…
@WheeliePete yea, i dont know about upgrading all that stuff haha, cause
the next weak link would be either the carrier, or the manual locking hub
body 😛
Be aware that this techniques doesn’t always work. I spent close to $50 to
build a tube similar to the tool shown in the video. I’ve slammed the axle
in the tube at least 20 times to no avail. After this, I directly pounded
on the shaft and tried using a drift punch. No GO! Be prepared that your
axle may not come out!
thanks mate great info thanks for posting
@analog56x But that’s why they make V6 carriers and extra pin kits for the
locking hub body…lol… eventually it gets back to the R&P for the weak
link and you can just carry a spare third… 😉 Of course the best
solution is just a D60.
thanks man. very helful
thanks man, damn life saver!
That is really strange. How much spacer you running? You might want to
limit the turning radius a few more degrees. If the inner is failing it’s
usually because of hyperextension. Those inners get pretty exposed as they
reach their max working angle No way the 22R is overpowering it. 😉 The
dangerous part is to break one and still be driving and have the grenaded
pieces lock up the joint in a turn (in 2wd) which locks out the steering.
That happened to me once…scary!