This video shows where a timing belt is broken on a 2006 Forenza after 40000 miles. There is valve damage which will be addressed in later videos. In the vi…
This video shows where a timing belt is broken on a 2006 Forenza after 40000 miles. There is valve damage which will be addressed in later videos. In the vi…
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@Tony, yep, I agree, but they are here to stay as far as the interference
engines. Thanks for the comment.
I will never buy another car that does not have a timing chain. I currently
own a Hyundai Elantra and a Sonata. Good cars but the maintanance costs
pertaining to the timing belts are too high as are the risks with
interferance engines.
Yes, that is correct Nivicoman. Cheaper always wins.
I wish the automakers would get away from using belts for the cam drive. It
does cost a bit to get it changed if you don’t do it yourself. Bigger cost
if it isn’t changed of course but I guess bottom line for the automakers is
cost of a belt vs chain. Cheaper wins every time.
Thanks Jamar for the comment on the videos as I appreciate it. Yes, with
two valves bent, (they would be open even if you can’t see it) and four
open valves, then that car is not going to start. Time for the machine shop
or another reconditioned head. Good luck on your repair.
Hi Jamar, it depends on how bad the valves are bent. If they are bent a
little, maybe it will start, but it won’t run worth a crap. If the valves
are bent more, then it won’t start at all.
I have been watching your videos and they are really well made I’m working
on my girl friends car. The timing belt broke while she was driving. I
installed the new belt and thaw car would not start. I double checked the
timing which was good. I removed the head by following your video and found
2 bent valves and 4 open ones. Would this have prevented the car from
starting? Any help would be appreciated
Hey is the engine valves on the forenza are bent will the car start
Glad to hear that everything went well for you Brad. Good luck on that
P0507 code. I wrote you a reply to that one.
I hope you are doing well my the timing belt you helped me do on my
daughters 2005 Suzuki is doing great.
idle relearn procedure. Go to my last video of where we’re done and I show
the idle relearn procedure there. Good luck on your repair Brad.
Hi Brad, glad to hear that you got your daughter’s car timing belt changed.
After I put everything back together I didn’t get any check any light or
code. On the P0507, it’s saying that the idle speed is higher than what the
PCM wants. With that code, you want to look around for any vacuum leaks by
looking for the obvious split hoses, hoses off, etc. If you don’t have a
smoke machine, you could use some propane or brake cleaner. Be careful,
they’re flammable. Afterwards, you could do a cont)…
But I was wondering if you have had the check engine light come on with the
code p0507?
and explain about using blue-thread locker on this bolt. My recommendation
is at 30,000 miles to check the belt for frays, check the idlers, tensioner
and its adjustment and look for coolant and oil leaks. Finally, at 60,000
miles or shortly before preferably, replace the belt, idlers, tensioner and
water pump. You can get all these items for about $110. Small investment in
my opinion for the damage that could happen. Thanks everyone for watching
the videos and hope you have enjoyed them!
Hi Darrin, the chances of the belt jumping are very good when a belt gets a
lot of miles on them. When there is no compression from the cylinders, you
will know it the first time you hear it. The engine will spin over very
rapidly because of no compression. It’s very easy to check the timing as I
show in the video. There’s not much to take off for this step. If it’s off
and it probably is, align the marks and see what happens. The worst case
scenario is that when the belt jumped, it bent…cont
Hi mshdity. Thanks for the compliment on the videos. I assume that when the
idler bearing went bad that the engine stop running and that possibly the
belt jumped time. In that event, you probably have a good chance of bent
valves. I don’t know of a way to do this test without the valves being back
in time which means you have to put the belt and idlers on there. You can
just replace the one idler, throw the belt on and then do the test. Not
that hard to do. Good luck on your repair.
some of the valves. At that point, you can follow along with the other
videos showing where I’m pulling the head and sending it out to a machinist
for repair. I sure do wish you luck and hope there wasn’t any damage. Oh,
one more thing. If there is no damage to the valves, be sure to change the
water pump, two idlers and tensioner. According to Gates (belt
manufacturer), you lose 50% of the life of the belt when these components
are not changed. Thanks for watching!
part 2. the car has 320,000 km’s or around 198,800 mi what would recomend
Hi, I must compliment you on the great videos and the detail in which it is
presented. You sure make a phenomenal teacher. I have a 2004 Forenza. The
bearings on one of the idler pulleys went bad, and we had to tow the car
home. Is there a way to do a leak down test to check for bent rods without
replacing the belt and pulleys? I have ordered the belt, but thought I
could save some time by starting to strip the engine and getting it to the
shop in the meantime. Thank you!
Sorry on the price of the head work. The price was $371.00. This includes a
complete valve job where all valves were replaced, valve guides were
replaced since several were split when the valves bent, some aluminum
welding was done to fill in some minor pockets on the deck and .005″ was
removed from the deck. This does not include any parts as this is only the
labor to fix the head. So, folks be sure to replace that belt or you will
have extensive damage which means quite a bit of money.
If the belt broke can I just put on a new one or is there valve damage if
so do I just replace the head and put on a new belt
Yes, but be sure to cut yourself a piece of plywood to place on the jack to
distribute the load across the oil pan. Don’t just put the jack underneath
the pan or you could bend it.
Great video – my belt didn’t beak but is well past the need of replacement.
What are the chances of the belt jumping because the car basically died it
was like a switch was turned off. I removed all of the spark plugs and
there seems to be no compression with the spark plugs re installed and
engine turning over it sounds weird like nothing is there. The belt still
seems tight.
Your video 8 was intriguing enough that I decided to go back to the
beginning and watch the series from the start. Too bad the belt seems to
have broken after another mechanic worked on it — there’s added complexity
when you know somebody was there before. The usual rule of thumb (to
replace parts as they were) doesn’t necessarily apply.
Hi Bendpak7000, I wish I knew the answer to that. The idlers had a slight
amount of bearing wear and the tensioner bearing was good along with the
water pump bearing. I really didn’t see anything that would cause the belt
to get torn up like it did. The dealership had supposedly changed the belt,
but who knows, maybe they didn’t. Or if they did, maybe the adjustment
wasn’t correct. Which is why I think you should do a check on the tensioner
adjustment after 30,000 miles. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the reply I ripped everything apart and sure enough timing marks
di not line up. belt didn’t jump all by itself I found 3 pieces of metel
almost like a pulley shield 1 piece enbeded itself around the timing pulley
at the crank so I guess the piece of metel through the belt off and it did,
I cleaned the metel off the pulley and re aligned all the timing marks and
it still turns over rapidly oh and the piece of metel was a shield off the
water pump pulley so I assume I have bent valves
I’m over here in GSO, NC and trust me, the prices are the same everywhere.
Just take your time and you’ll be fine with the job. It’s one of the
easiest timing belt changes out there.
Hi Bill! The best place that I found the cheapest parts was at RockAuto dot
com. I bought the head gasket kit, head bolts, valves, valve guides, water
pump, tensioner, idlers and timing belt from these guys. For the specialty
items like cam bolts, crank bolt I bought that from an online Suzuki
dealer. If you’re just changing the belt, pump, tensioner and idlers, be
sure to get the kit which includes everything. The one that I used was from
Gates which came from RockAuto. Hope that helps you out!