How to test and replace the variable valve timing solenoid on a late model Subaru.
P0028 – Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance Bank 2
P0082 – Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low Bank 2
P0083 – Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High Bank 2
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#vvtsolenoid #p0028 #p0082
I just changed both left and right today.. took me 40 mins both solenoids
You can import the VVT for 20$
Just the VVT….. solenoid valve
No need to replace the whole housing
Vvt is so easy but every you tube video makes it seem a mission for the left side
No ways.. in SA we hone out where you can't get socket in… ot takes 20 minutes for the left.. no need to pull the whole motor.. and right side takes 5 minutes.. import the solenoids and do it yourself… its so simple
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New to you're channel i only have 1 volt at both vvt connecters on 2006 Subaru outback
Ok I need help pleaseeee ok here's the problem I did every thing u said for testing the voltage..it all came back correct on driver's side vvt and passenger side vvt both harness connectors read correctly on the meter….but every time I clear the p0083 code it comes on immediately??? Why is this??
I replaced both solenoids left and right.. I even replaced both oil pressure sensors.and the code p0083 keeps coming back. after I cleared the codes on my scanner why is this??
STOP ! I just thru a p0028 code on my 09 2.5 lego. Checked all the vids. Did ohm test and 0 on the solenoid. Saw that the effen engineers decided that you would have to take all the timing covers etc off to get at it. there is a bracket in the way so you can't get a socket on the solenoid 10mm. Fuck that. I took my dremmel with a metal cutting wheel and cut the nob on the bracket off. Easy to get a socket on it now. Good luck bros. J R
I think my harness is bad, as I have replaced both of the solenoids and still getting an intermittent code corresponding to this solenoid, before I got throw a harness at it, this solenoid isn't triggered by a relay is it?
READ THIS FIRST!!!! what he's showing is how to remove the housing, if you just need to remove the solenoid there's a 10mm right behind it, you can see it very easily. All you need to do is unscrew it and wiggle the solenoid out, it has O-rings so it'll be a little tough but you don't need to pull the housing to replace the solenoid
Im confused, I think there was too much work to do something simple, because theres a single bolt in the picture of the new part, thats shows it holds the solenoid in the body that you took all the work to take off? Picture doesnt show all of that. i guess ill find out when I get the parts and go at it. now I could see one of those oil passages could be clogged?