Subaru 2.5L Spark Plug Replacement

Subaru 2.5L Spark Plug Replacement

Subaru 2.5L Spark Plug Replacement. How to do it like a pro. Step by step. This video includes solutions and how to remove oil from plug wells.

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ColoradoStreaming says:

Dont get a cold air intake on a N/A impreza. I have one and looked into it in depth and there is a piece of plastic called the resonater that causes the air to flow smoothly past the O2 sensor. If you remove this it will cause your car to run rich. Just get a K&N drop in filter, you will notice a decent change, maybe not real HP gain but it will be more responsive. Subaru’s are known for going through oil but its not critical.

leafy greens says:

I’ve heard people say that if you let a Subaru run even like half a quart low on oil it will cause stuff to break. Also, people said i that stuff would break if I put on an aftermarket K&N cold air intake without getting the ECU re-tuned for it. Are either of those statements true?

shopken1 says:

If you do a lot of dirt roads/rougher surfaces I would choose the Subaru. The Honda Fit is very low maintenance and a much lower cost per mile vehicle in both repair and fuel economy. The Subaru technology is “Old school” and the design well known. A competent tech should not be hard to find. Look for a guy that is through, intelligent and cares about what he produces and how his product performs and lasts.

jesserowlingsify says:

are you kidding man? if you buy the right subaru, it’ll go forever. don’t be silly.

leafy greens says:

I am trying to decide between a 2007 subaru impreza wagon and a 2008 honda fit. I like the AWD and extra interior space of the subaru, but I’m a bit leery about the engine reliability and difficulty/cost of repair. What would you recommend? And how had/expensive is it to find parts and mechanics to repair on Subaru’s?

shopken1 says:

Use OEM parts not aftermarket crap- They fit and last.

shopken1 says:

Dont remember the year of this car- I work on hundreds. Pretty much the same issue on all Subaru engines where the plug wells are sealed from the inside of the valve covers. Seals have been changed through the years and improved- but still an issue.

leafy greens says:

Is this leak a problem in pretty much every model year of Impreza/outback or just certain years? Also, which year is the car in the video? Thanks for the video. Very helpful.

Sethcha Koy says:

Working on Boxer engine seems very tedious.

JessuP977 says:

What year is this.? Looks like a 2.2, not a 2.5.??

shopken1 says:

The customers $ sets how far repairs go. It can take from 15-30k for the plug wells to fill again to a point of misfire significance. For some car owners this gives them the time they need to save the money needed for the oem upgraded plug well seals, bolt seals and gaskets, oem wires. Some need valve adj at the same time. Engineering shortcomings become apparent when compared to newer designs virtually do not leak oil for the life of the engine. Subaru’s leak oil/need repairs periodically

henchicken1 says:

every subaru ive ben in smells like burning oil!

shopken1 says:

After the compression washer on the plug is flattened out- the plug will get suddenly very solid feeling while turning. The threads are going to be damaged as the plug steel thermocycles against the aluminum threads of the cylinder head holding the plug in place. Steel and aluminum expand at different rates and wear out the plug holes. Quality plugs have nickle or cadmium plating that is somewhat self lubricating, but anti-seize treating the plug threads is always best (helps heat transfer also)

shopken1 says:

Most folks will cross thread or fight the angles. Most require the removal of splash shields and plates that make removal from the top much faster.

shopken1 says:

After 36 years as a pro mechanic observing thousands of cars and trucks where brake clean has been used extensively,I can assure you- brake clean is a safe and effective contact cleaner (for the parts anyway) leaving no residue. If you have observed corrosion on surfaces after using the compound it was most likely due to the fact that it removes all waxes, oils and other surface protecting coatings. It makes a fantastic paint prep degreaser allowing paint to stick like glue and no fish eyes.

ragalyisp says:

Seems like my level of being anal lol. I wouldnt spray brakleen in there though. That stuff is nasty and corrosive

iceclimber2001 says:

I assume the $250-350 includes labor. The parts, even if you replace the cords and plugs are easily under $100. Gasket set was $30, wires $40?, then anti-seize and dielectric added a few bucks.

John Levy says:

I agree, excellent demonstration, I am getting ready to replace plugs and also noticed oil around the area..

Mark Stablein says:

This method is the best from above but it’s been my experience that if you’re able to lift the car off the ground you have much better access to the plugs and you don’t need to remove anything as they are right there.

JerryFfVT says:

Thanks for the other tips and such, this is a well made video with extra information I would not have thought about. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.

longlive289s says:

thanks….this helps a lot. kinda had to laugh at the “squirter bottle” tho

shopken1 says:

@jboydmv90 – These spark plugs have a compression gasket on the base. Typically the plug is seated by hand pressure and 1/4-1/2 turn on a wrench to achieve the factory specifycation applied torque to compress the seal. If unsure if a plug is correctly installed; use a torque wrench @ 15lbs-25lbs. Tips; -Dont remove a plug with oil in the hole! -Antisieze treat the threads (not on the insulator tip) for best heat transfer and thread preservation -dont over tighen! -gap the plug

shopken1 says:

– It should be for the entire job, and on some engines; a valve adjustment as well. It is a fairly simple proceedure. Allow more time if you are doing it yourself and where you want to adjust the valves on pallet or shem type adjustment. Most shops have an assortment of different sizes on hand where the typical owner must measure and buy the correct shems. (I will do a video soon on valve adjustments)

Gator says:

$250 to 350,,?? Just for the parts or a garage fixing the problem…I have a2005 and saw some oil in the plug well entrances today while replacing the plugs. Cleaned it all up but the issue is still there…Seems like a BIG job to do on my own..

jboydmv90 says:

How do you know when the spark plug is too tight???

shopken1 says:

– I dont recall the exact year of this car- 2000-2003? it does not matter although for proceedure on the 2.5L

shopken1 says:

– With Subaru gaskets and seals (recommended) est- $250-350. Most leak after engine has been too hot or gets a few miles on it (thermocycles breaks down the seals/gaskets over time) Newer materials used for construction of cam, crank and oil pump seals greatly reduce past oil leaks on other Subaru models. Newer materials available for older Subarus to reduce oil leak service intervals. Make sure estimates include cleaning off oil residue from parts and undercarrage etc.

Rolando Loeb says:

i didnt know about that leaked oil problem… its expensive to fix

shopken1 says:

– I have used that for years. Its great for cleaning out bolt holes when doing headgaskets etc. Poly tubes of different sizes are also great when hooked up to a shop vac. Removal of aluminum chips when threading plug holes or vacuuming out coolant from cylinders etc.

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