Here is a link to how to make the special tool I used: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/suspension-handling/134369210-diy-subaru-ball-joint-removal-tool-around-18-1-lug-nut.html
With this tool I think you can normally do it on the car… unless you have a bolt break…
){kind=link}
Thanks for taking the time to make this video; about to start on the replacement of my 2006 Outback(both lower arms that have new ball joints in them); hopefully I won't have the problems you had (123,000 miles) but it's good to know what the procedure would be if so.
Why not just buy a new Outback?
Would it be easier to take the control arm off? The you would have access to use your tool?
What is the torque spec for a 02 WRX ball joint castle nut? TIA
FYI the assembly you removed is the knuckle. The hub you left installed on the knuckle, that's the part with the bearing, the wheel studs, etc that the CV axle goes through.
My mechanic had this same problem doing the joints on my 03 Outback. First side the head snapped off. Second side he just torched the heck out of it to start and because it was in better shape and made a better seal the ball joint itself exploded and shot out of the knuckle. Be careful torching! But it did break the bolt free perfectly easy. On the first side he had to drill and replaced with a through-bolt with a nut on the end.
Been there done that! Multiple times. Three I think.
One time, I drilled it out, then as I was trying to hammer out the last chunks of the bolt, the clamp itself split. Turned out a crack had been forming for a long time and it was only held together by a small section of good metal. Had to replace the whole hub using one from a junk car.
Another time I drilled it out and saved the threads, no huge deal just a lot of work.
Last time I drilled it out, but the threads didn't survive, so I just drilled the hole a bit larger, used a through bolt with a washer and nut, and ground a flat spot on the other side of the ball joint clamp. This is actually a really good solution in the end, just sucks to have to do it. I also knicked my brand new ball joint boot when I was grinding, that was a pisser. Patched it using a piece of old boot and super glue and it has held up for two years so far.
Now every time I change them, I grease the hell out of everything, I never seize the hell out of the bolt, and I actually pack the bolt head, end of the bolt, and the entire ball joint clamp split full of heavy grease so it can never rust to hell.
I love Subaru, but I really would have loved a slightly different ball joint clamp design.
If you've damaged the threads and have to put a bolt and nut on, what size bolt do you need. I know it should be at least a grade 8 with a lock nut, but I don't know the size and length of bolt that you need. Thanks!
I think the reason this bolt rusts in place and breaks is due to the design. The head of the bolt seals a flat on the casting, but that isn't good enough. The split allows salt dissolved road splash to enter the through hole from this place. Add capillary action and it completely rusts the bolt and hole.Better design would be through hole all the way and a nut& bolt.
Howabout the axle pulling out of the transaxle when pickle bar separating the BJ from the casting? Pulling off and dropping one of the donut wheels in the dirt? This, after the whole break bolt and drill out routine…Fun times. Helps to have a puppy to supervise. And by that I mean licking my face whenever my hands were occupied. Rag stealer, too. For the record, I did heat the casting with an oxy-acet torch, anticipating trouble. Broke too easily, like butter. We wouldn't be doing this if we didn't love a challenge, eh?
This just happened to me on a forester yesterday. I was able to drill it out on the car but what a bear! You sorted it out very well.
Keep up the good fight.
You're a better man than I, Gunga Din.
I use a dremel tool with a carbide metal bit on it for removing the "tang" on axle nuts. You can have a person in the car hit the brakes if you have the car in the air already to loosen the nut. Might have to turn car on to get enough brake pressure.
Not looking forward to doing this but I have a busted joint on the sti. I had my share of drilling caliper bolts… Nice video that shows things go wrong for other people hehe. Would hearing the back bolt area help? Anything that would melt?
You loosened the steering knuckle from the strut, and pried the joint apart with the separator fork?
I don't think you needed to put the wheel back on and lower the vehicle to the ground to get that axle nut off. All I do is put a thick and heavy allen key into one of the slots in the rotor. As you turn the nut, it wedges against the brake assembly; it usually works like a charm.
did you tap the dimple out of the wheel nut first ?
on drilling out that bolt, once you've drilled a hole through it what then? How to drill out more without destroying thread? do you have to rethread hole?
I have to say, I wasn't totally impressed with your camera work but all of that was thrown out the window when you fucked up so hard. But then you totally saved the day and drilled out the bolt. I would have basically started crying at that point. And that tool! Swoon. Loved it. Even though it all went to shit, you made it look reasonably doable. Giving you the thumbs up man 🙂 Good video. Felt your struggle.
Don't forget to mark the camber bolt on shock, above the hub, this will keep everything in line when putting it back together.
Im in the process of doing this for my Forester. I got the BJ's out and new ones in. Now im having trouble getting the steering knuckle lifted enough to get the BJ lug into the control arm. I cant make the knuckle budge what so ever by just lifting it. When I try to jack up from the rotor it just moves it backwards. Any ideas?
We have all had simple jobs that turn into a nightmare , but fair play man , you sorted it out very well . Good vid!!
love the MacGyver tool ,if anything this video could just have saved me 4 hours of my life one day . thanks
to get the axle nut off you could have someone step on the brake while you get the nut off
You can rent an axle puller from Autozone to push axle out of the hub in order to avoid pulling apart CV joint boot.
A couple things – you can stick a screw driver in the disc brake vents before the caliper to keep it from rotating while you get the axle nut off. Also, your ball joint came out pretty easy. I used a similar tool and it stripped the threads off the balljoint stud because the balljoint was so rusty. I had to heat up the balljoint housing with a torch while pulling it out.
Awesome job!