How to Prepare Your Subaru Engine for Reinstallation

How to Prepare Your Subaru Engine for Reinstallation

Amazon has this Permatex Right Stuff like I used in the video HERE→http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBM6PE/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=211189&creative=3…

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Dale Fluegel says:

I find it interesting the different opinions on cars. I had a terrible
experience with a Subaru and two toyotas and one honda, so I think those
cars a crap. Owned two ford and two vws and I had great experience, drove
them into the ground, so I just said I will stay with those brands.
Although i would like to have a bmw someday

Rogue Jester says:

Just wondering brain I have a 2000 Subaru Legacy Mt had a 2.5 in it and
timing belt broke piston cracked/ chipped and found a 2.0 pretty cheap and
low miles that fits that year what all would i need to replace to do the
swap or would you recommend doing a complete rebuild on the motor that I
have that way i know what i have.

jay rosii says:

Hey brian, What happens if I drive the cam plug all the way in, will it
leak?

Scott Wrona says:

Just drop in a bottle of fix everything cheap.. I laughed too hard at that.

Dale Fluegel says:

You are absolutely right subarus and toyotas rust out fast I stopped buying
them for that reason. It was amazing how fast the cancer spread once it
started. I would do everything but every winter it would get worse.

drendenable says:

i have a 2011 outback 2.5i, can i put a 3.6r engine block in it? theyre the
same size, right?

slocore says:

I did the head gaskets of 97 legacy 2.2, engine back together and runs as
long as spraying a can of carb cleaner in TB, but won’t run or even fire
(much?) without it. Fuel pump seems to dump plenty of gas on engine side. I
don’t see a CEL with key on, friend says this means ecm is dead. But if
that was the case, how could it have spark? I don’t have a lot of cash left
to throw parts at this Subaru… appreciate your suggestions, and thanks
for all the quality videos. Timothy

reneonlineg1 says:

have u read scanner danner book ? do you use a scope ?

Jared David says:

Brian, what are the torque settings for the engine bolts?

briansmobile1 says:

It has it’s place. Typically I like Lucas products.

Janos D says:

and where is your repair shop..:)

Jason Mayer says:

Got some help and the TC finally went in. Note to others. NEVER let the TC
get pulled out. Got then engine back together. But it wont torn over.
Jumped it still no good. The starter clicks once then nothing. Any
suggestions for what I should check?

Terry Haggin says:

Brian, do you know that much about VW vanagons and westfalias?

pacman120706 says:

Brian Thanks for sharing your knowledge, it is great! I am looking for your
help with your opinion if you can spare a minute. I had my Short Block
replaced with Brand new parts and have got the car back 2 weeks ago. There
is a leak, and this is what the mechanic has done 4 days ago (Tuesday) with
me with him, to try to find the leak which is on the back side of the
engine so it seemed:

briansmobile1 says:

@devinsbiro It’s likely connecting rod bearings.

pacman120706 says:

We will find the answer but what a pain!!! I wanted to get your opinion and
of course I will let you know when the Battle has been WON, lol. Take care
and I look forward to your reply.

Jeremy Sutton says:

Yup, all the bolts were in. The torque converter was not seated properly.
Destroyed the tranny. Huge mistake. I’ve got a new transmission now. Not in
yet. What I can’t find is really good pictures of a seated converter on a
soob. From right above and from underneath would be helpful. Thanks for the
reply.

mg556linked says:

Sorry to rant on you video. I just thought access holes was somewhat
relevant to you video. I will be adding the oil pan access holes at my next
convenience. Thanks again Brian. (Previously subscribed viewer)

Paul Morales says:

all these subaru videos are awesome

erngre1 says:

Hello again Brian. Another case in point. I bought this car in June 2012. I
looked it over and thought I should look into changing the ball joints.
(Prevent Maintenance) The bolt head at the ball joint was already broken
off. So I spend 40 dollars for a new Knuckle that houses the ball joint fro
a junk yard. Can’t buy new ones. Pull that B.J. Pressed the new one in and
SNAP. The pocket that the ball joint seats into down the side and around
tothe bottom.Point being the poor metal used bySubaru.

Terry Haggin says:

I have been looking on websites that do this sort of thing. They say it is
a straight swap and easy but they charge around 10 grand to do it. That
seems really high. How much is a good used Subaru engine? google “subaru
westfalia conversion” I am not a mechanic but I would love to see you do
one of these and post some videos. Even do one and sell a long how to
video. I would buy that.

Ben Kaminsky says:

Hi, I just got my Subaru engine back in after doing a head gasket
replacement (thanks for the vids btw; super helpful). However now that I
got the car back together, I now have a blinking at temp light as soon as
you drop the car in gear to test drive. Didn’t have any transmission
problem prior to the engine removal and re-install so think I missed
something. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.

dmcguinn1 says:

Thanks for the super-fast reply! I just checked online at Advance Auto, but
it seems that there are multiple options for “Right Stuff Sealant”. Is
there a specific one (color/item #/etc) that I should get? Thanks again!

briansmobile1 says:

Right on. Look forward to hearing about your results. I’d be happy to
support a video response.

Bgoff79 says:

I don’t have sheet in front of me but thinking which ever it was 321ppm was
passing i was at 540ppm. Had a shop run a smoke test on it with no found
leaks and I kept thinking weak spark but I am not sure what else i can
change.

briansmobile1 says:

I get that stuff from my local machine shop. I seal the block with Right
Stuff. wire brush is fine BEFORE seating valves.

steve o says:

My wifes 2004 Forester has117k miles. She had engine pulled at 89K for
leaky gasket issue of those years. They replaced one bank of pistons &
timing belt. one would hope the back seals you mention were replaced also.
She drove 120 miles for engine work in Mandan ND. But now wants you as her
expert Subby Mech so she can reach her goal of 200k. Are you in Minnesota?
Hard to find anyone with your knowledge on Subby out here in the back
country.

briansmobile1 says:

Who is John Galt? And why doesn’t he live in NYC?

briansmobile1 says:

No flywheel, just a thin metal plate. (flex plate)

briansmobile1 says:

I’ve worked on a lot of micro bus’ etc. but not man Westfalias. There are
few of those around here.

wayne scouse says:

hi buddy i watched your video on axle removal was awsome help do you have
any that show me how to replace rocker cover gaskets ie what do i need to
remove for clearance ect toold required

dmcguinn1 says:

I had watched another one of Brian’s videos today where he installed a
re-manufactured motor into a Jeep & primed the oil with a drill. I didn’t
know if this was also needed on a EJ25 engine. I will be tearing the motor
down completely & rebuilding it from the crank up — my first complete
overhaul 🙂 I have done head gaskets on vehicles before, but never a whole
engine. I plan to use the existing oil pump unless that is highly
inadvisable since they are almost $200 extra for one.

larrybear1959 says:

if more people new about subaru cars , GM , FORD, CHRYSLER would never sell
any cars !!!

briansmobile1 says:

@SushiPac Thanks I’m glad you like them. Feel free to share the link.

ejmagras says:

Hi Brian great video as usual. i have a 97 outback and I have binding on
the rear wheel with 16 flashes on the oil temp light. Have you come across
this problem in your work? and since you love these cars would you consider
doing a video on this type of repair?

briansmobile1 says:

Thanks man, I’m flattered. I live in the Rocky Mountains in the western US.
That’s great if you are getting a vehicle that has been rear ended or
something so everything is complete and the engine compartment is not
messed up.

pandemoniummisfits says:

hey I always wondered but couldn’t find info about subbie engines, what’s
the difference between a long block and short block?

briansmobile1 says:

Look on the Car-part website that has a com at the end of it for prices on
engines. The trick is to get the wire harness and computer with it too. It
has to be able to have timing etc. For that to happen you need to use the
wire harness etc. from the donor Subaru. Most salvage yards trash the wire
harness while perfoming the engine/trans-ectomy the first week the car
arrives.

pacman120706 says:

UPDATE…I’ve found oil on the top of the block. behind the power steering
pump. It was there in the past as well. I called my mechanic and he said it
might be the Oil Regulator??? I don’t know what that is. He doesn’t think
it’s the Oil Seperator plate. Sorry for the novel 🙁

briansmobile1 says:

Take heart. That bolt wouldn’t break from the timing belt being too tight.
It would break due to improper repair methods for compressing the
tensioner. The good news is the bracket that goes into can be removed for
better bolt extraction access.

hunglow65 says:

ok i got the engine in and running at about 200 miles it gave a loud pop
and no start… towed it home pulled timing cover(right) and found
tensioner blot sheared… belt too tight? when i put the belt on it was
more than a struggle to get it on… when i pulled the (gernade) pin it
never moved… had to have been too tight but also tried the old oem belt
with same result…. so i put the new one on… not sure how to go any
farther with this… any words of wisdom? not sure why it was so tight.

briansmobile1 says:

@JAYofALL99TRADES You can turn the crank back and forth for each of the
pistons at Top Dead Center and see if there’s delay. It’s pretty effective.

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