Doing This Will Make Your Subaru Engine Run Like New

Doing This Will Make Your Subaru Engine Run Like New

You know that feeling when your Subaru just isn’t running right? Maybe it’s a 2015 Forester that feels sluggish. Or a 2018 Outback that’s burning through gas like crazy. Here’s what I’ve learned after rebuilding hundreds of Subaru engines: most performance problems aren’t engine problems. They’re maintenance problems. The boxer engine in your Subaru is incredibly durable, but it needs specific care to stay healthy. Today I’m walking you through a complete engine refresh checklist that’ll bring back that new-car feel. No expensive parts, no dealer visits. Just smart maintenance that most Subaru owners completely ignore. Keep watching, because the last tip alone can restore 15-20 horsepower you didn’t even know you were missing.

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Ready to get the most out of your Subaru? We share easy-to-follow maintenance tips, DIY repair guides, and essential upkeep to help you avoid costly mechanic bills. Alongside these step-by-step guides, we also break down the best new and used Subaru models worth buying so you can make a smart choice for your next vehicle. Subscribe now to take control of your Subaru’s health and stay informed on the best models to own!

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Comments

@petset77 says:

I switched oil to 5W30 in my wife's 2013 Crosstrek with 190,000 miles this year, and oil consumption vastly improved to the point that I don't need to add any between changes. Of course I still check it weekly. The 5W30 also stopped the valve clatter during warmup. That said, being heavier I'd guess it will flow less readily at startup when temperatures are around zero here in Colorado. I'm looking for additives that help with cold start lubrication. Moly isn't recommended for Subarus in a couple of reports, being solids floating in a carrier. Subaru of Pueblo service people said they use MOA a couple of years ago during a service check, but that was when we still used 0W20, and I don't want any additive to further thicken oil for winter. I've used ProLong engine treatment for over ten years in my old Tacoma with over 331,000 miles, but don't know the chemical composition or if it's safe with the Subaru 2.0 boxer. Any suggestions?

@mrwnking says:

When I rebuilt my 97 subaru legacy outback l wagon engine, the pcv valve and hose was so clogged, i was scrapping out hard black stuff out of the hose. So I ordered all oem hose and pcv valve. But, I was wondering how did that happen, so that I now how to prevent it next time.

@kentrik999 says:

Cabin air filter literally has NOTHING to do with turbo inlets.

There's some good advice in these, but also an awful lot of AI-compiled BS…

@GregSteele-os8yp says:

I get more tips from the comments.thanks

@lparch33 says:

That's a very interesting turbo inlet screen. If the actual screen is clogged, it will do much more than make you lose a few ponies!

@ariesofmars2492 says:

Where you getting a 5k engine replacement?

@tommywallbanger says:

Yeah I'm so sure this guy has rebuilt hundreds of Subaru engines.

@brychezs1 says:

That’s right guys! Replace your fluids. Even lifetime that they don’t want to do. They are charging 450 to 800 to do it. Pretty much they want your tranny to break. That’s cool from a car manufacturer! And sales are low? Wonder why?…

@jamescowing4009 says:

Top Tier fuel will greatly slow or eliminate material buildup on the valves.

@craigcontofalsky4387 says:

98% of Subaru customers aren't equipped to do any of those modifications. The wives definitely won't and most men probably don't have the tools or smarts either.

@MonkellD says:

Tensioner pulley is most likely to fail first, or at least be the reason your belt falls off.

@MonkellD says:

Change your cabin filter at least once a year…

@MonkellD says:

Dirty air filter is the best air filter. Watch motor oil geek's interview with donaldson. Engine oil analysis will determine if contaminants are getting by your filter.

@PeatyR says:

If you're going to change your PCV valve on an older Subaru. Do yourself a favor and get the hose that connects to it at the same time. I can pretty much guarantee it'll be hard and brittle down where it connects to the valve itself. If you try and reuse it it won't make a good seal. Once you disturb it it tends to crack . At least that's been my experience.

@russjohnson6396 says:

Sounds like another AI video. "PERfect (instead of perFECT) your warmup routine" VYscosity instead of VIScosity? "R P M S" instead of RPM's? Why does it keep showing the AC/alternator/water pump belt when talking about the timing belt (inside a cover)?

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