This is how you change the spark plugs in most modern 4-cylinder Saab Engines. Always use NGK plugs and check your owner’s manual and/or tuner. I use NGK BCPR7ES-11 in this video.
Incidentally, this video also shows how to replace the Direct Ignition Cassette (DI/DIC)
This video applies to most Saab ng900, 9000, 9-5 and 9-3 cars.
Swedish: Så här byter man tändstift i de flesta Saab-motorerna. Som en del av detta visar filmen också hur man byter tändkassett eftersom den måste bort innan man når tändstiften.
Trionic Seven is the YouTube channel for Saab enthusiasts.
Subscribe to our channel! http://bit.ly/1QAmC6i
Check out Trionic Dash: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyGJ2C7CkqfYy2jBreNj1nw
Follow us on social media:
Google+: https://plus.google.com/+TrionicSeven
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SevenTrionic
Twitter: https://twitter.com/TrionicSeven
Reddit: http://www.reddit.com/r/TrionicSeven
Instagram: https://instagram.com/TrionicSeven
Due to factors beyond the control of Trionic Seven, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Trionic Seven assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Trionic Seven recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Trionic Seven, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Trionic Seven.
){kind=link}
This video helped me out a lot, thanks! Inherited a Saab 95 2.3t se from my father in law and it had all sorts of problems. First of all it has a very obvious boost problem so as soon as I got it i went a bought a OBD2 scanner for my phone and checked out the error codes. Got 4 and all of them pointed at a faulty DI Cassette. So following your excellent video i changed it out for a new original one and changed the spark plugs at the same time. Now 3 out of 4 error codes are gone but the boost problem remained but the fuel consumption has gone down from 13 to 11 liters per 100km. It feels sluggish, like it has 50 break horse power and no turbo boost. The error code is p1105.
I've ordered a new set of vacuum hoses in silicone that are due to arrive tomorrow but i don't think that will solve my problem. Do you have any pointers that might point me in the right direction here?
How do you know when your plugs need to be changed?
Great job! (and you didn't even dirty your hands)
One would think a guy like you would have had your valve cover repainted by now 🙂
Some videos that would be interesting would be how to replace the antennae cover, brake lights, shift knob, and removal of the dash or door panels. Just some ideas.
I need to replace at least one light on my third brake light as I get intermittent warnings on my SID, took a while for me to find it as it was not everytime and when I checked it was pretty light outside, it was also one of the end bulbs on the third brake light and it kind of blended in. Tinted windows didn't help me 🙂
I need to do this to Anders, his plugs are darker than space
Thanks for another great tutorial. Would you know if I should do or think of when installing a brand new DIC? Should it also be standing upright for 30-60 min. if you know?
Another good video from you! The dealer who sold me my 2002 Aero serviced it and installed Bosch plugs, they caused a CEL after 200 miles, gaps were way off, different on each plug. I regapped them, CEL came back after ~500 miles. Turns out that unmodified Aeros need NGK PFR6H-10 plugs, gapped at 0.95, 24Nm. She's running sweet.
how big difference is old vs new ngk? I probably have the original plugs in (after 180kkm ;x) and going to replace them with the new one soon. Also air and fuel/oil fikters will be replaced. Shall I expect great difference before/after in my 2.0LPT?
ive removed my comment as ive since been told that i was wrong.
Hi Jonatan and this was a nice video for those who don't know. But you did a big mistake here.
You torqued the plugs in to 28nm, checked them over again, and mounted the DI.
That's wrong. If you see on a new sparkplug, the sealing is much 'bigger' than on the old sparkplugs, what you HAVE to do is to torque it to the currect torque, witch is 28nm, loosen them up again, THAN torque them to 28nm, so the sealent is been pressured right. This is normal to do with all NGK plugs, maybe plugs from other brands like Bosch etc.
But you don't get the right pluglenght or what i could say if you do it your way here, so allways torque down the plug so the sealent got sqeezed together, loosen up, than torque it again. Sorry bad english, my iPhone want's to autocurrect everything it seems like.
Nice to see that you are using proper clothes for the job!
Just a curious question about the saab dash. Is the gauge a boost gauge? I can't seem to figure it out. Trying to figure if it is showing a boost leak or if it is normal that the gauge rises, then lowers if I keep a constant throttle position.
Excellent video and review as always. Everything is as presented. However allow me to point out a few tips. Dielectric grease should always be used between the rubber bouts of the DIC and the spark plugs. This way you avoid the event of an ark between them. Also always use torque to secure the DIC and always perform the change when the engine is cold.
I also believe that you should have gapped the tips to 0,9 considering your tuning state or buy the NGK BCPR7ES which are already gapped to 0.9mm.
Once again Jonathan well done.
Hello i'm wondering how did you know how to rotate the sparkplugs to a certain point that they're not too hard and not too loose ? Also you said that they must be at around 28 N.M what do you mean by that?
I'n my view, the old plugs looks near perfect in colour, except being worn a bit more than desirable. Not too lean, not too rich in mixture = light brown.
I always use a dab of anti-seize paste on the threads to protect the sensitive threads in the engine head. As long as you fasten the spark plug with degrees instead of torque, there's no problem. The plugs used in this case should be turned 180 degrees if I remember correctly.
Edit: Just checked, with a compression washer, as in this case, NGK recommends 1/2-2/3 of a full turn to seat it (180-270 degrees).
Sir, your plugs look fine. The brown color on the electrode is actually the ideal.
At first I wondered why are You using these spark plugs and not platinum ones. Why have You chosen with gap of 1,1mm? Is it better for ethanol mixture? My OEM DIC is coming today so I wonder what type of spark plugs should I use as my engine works on LPG. One way for sure is colder spark plugs as You chose. But most tunners say that for LPG gap should be less that 1mm.
I never knew that about the DIC having to stay upright. I've gone through several after market ones and wonder if improper handling could have attributed to it. I realize after market is NOT the way go especially for the cassette. I order the OEM one last week. Hopefully that should take care of my issue. Thank you for your insight!! Love your channel!!
Great timing, I was going to change my plugs today and your video just came out. Many thanks as always!