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You should torque the nut, not the bolt- when you have the option.
Jacob, that rubber brake hose has seen better days my friend… I myself am waiting for the Goodridge stainless steel hoses to come back into stock to tackle all of the brake hoses in one go. New video idea?
Love your videos on the 900, would like to get myself one someday 🙂 keep them coming! Very informative.
That bracing block tool for holding up the suspension is usually something that clanks down the road on the first test drive because I forgot to remove it. LOL
When a tripod is fighting against you to get it off you can use a three armed puller. The little hole to steady it is in the top of the axle. It makes work easier when you clamp the axle vertically in a vice or something similar. It looks as if the old clamp wasn't tightened. When it is in place and at the tightest notch you can manage you tighten it completely by using that special tool you have. When at a later date the clamp has to be removed use a small flathead to wriggle loose the part you pressed together. Then you should be able to get the tabs out of the square holes by sticking the flathead between the overlapping parts of the clamp and twist it. These clamps are a bit of a pain at first but once you get the hang of it they work fine. But don't use it at the cup of the gear box, better to (re)use a clamp that screws down. Doesn't the boot have a lip or a ring on the inside that should fit into matching voids in the axle and the cup? I can't dismiss the thought that the boot should be a bit more inwards so that it doesn't rub on that edge you mentioned.