The bushings in the torque rod often go bad in the Saab 9-5 which causes excessive engine movement. Replacing them is an easy and quick DIY that can be done with only basic tools.
Warning: I made a mistake in the video by putting the yellow bushing in with the wrong orientation. It should be rotated 90 degrees.
If your engine makes a clunking sound when accelerating or shifting gears, the torque rod bushings are the first things to check. These instructions apply to both manual and automatic cars, however for an automatic transmission you need another part number for the bushing.
I recommend polyurethane bushings from Powerflex, these are easy to install and will last the lifetime of the car. The polyurethane will not age in the same way as the stock rubber bushings.
Tightening torque for the bracket bolts is 47 Nm (until VIN 73514478) or 38 Nm (after VIN 73514479).
Swedish: Det är vanligt att momentstagets bussningar blir slitna och ger upphov till klonkande ljud när man går från motorbroms till gas. Denna video visar hur man byter ut bussningarna till nya Powerflex-bussningar i polyuretan.
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Hi mate I have a problem with my Saab 9-5 vector when I turn the key it doesn't crank over takes a several turns of the key to get it to crank overvI've changed the starter motor battery is ok I removed ignition and cleaned it but still happens do you have any idea what is causing your help would be appreciated thanks
just did mines today thanks for the walk through
Good Day Sir, I just did this mod with the predicted results so thanks for the education. Question – why, on the original bush, is the hole oval-shaped? My bush was mounted centrally within the bracket-to-gearbox, as seen by the circular clean marks on the metal insert, but surely it would be possible to mount the original with the bolt off-centre? Regards – Doug
did your car has the gear-allignment problem before changing the bushings? (if its a manual)
Is it the same on Automatic gearbox? I have problem locating the rod…
I test drove a Saab 9-5 recently, it had a bad shake from the front that came through the floor. Could the shake be because of these bushings? I did not buy the car.
is it the same in the 93 ?
good job but u forget to show the engine at the end when u started it
Jag är tveksam till att sätta en tight powerflexbussning i. Gjorde det själv i min 9-5 automat -99 eftersom motorn rörde sig kraftigt när jag la i D eller R. Råkade se den främre bussningen i armen och tänkte att den ser ju tokslut ut. Vibrationerna kom som ett brev på posten i hela bilen efter att jag satt i den gula powerflexbussningen. Köpte en ny originalarm med den svarta bussningen och döm om min förvåning när jag ser att den nya bussningen är precis lika slapp som den gamla som jag trodde var slut. Bussningen ska vara slapp och dessa momentarmarna (en fram och en bak i motorn) har egentligen ingen funktion om motorfästena i sig är hela.
Bara mina åsikter.
Do you have to lift the car and or engine at all like with the motor mounts?
Is there only one torque ?rod
Wow, this is just bad design… might be better to see if aftermarket 'solid' rubber or polyurethane upgrades are available.
Hi,
Did you have any trouble getting the front bolt out? I'm about to start on this job. The clearance between the bolt head and the catalytic converter looks tight.
Thanks for the video,
Peter
kan du göra video där du byter turbo?
Thank you so much for this video, found out why my car judders when pulling away thanks to you! Just ordered the parts. Got a 9-5 Aero Wagon 2002, following your channel very closely. Takk!
Isn't the square bushing mounted 90 degrees wrong?
Hej! Jag har ett problem med min SAAB 9-5 2,0t, när jag släpper gasen för att sedan gasa till "klonkar" det till. Kan det vara samma fel som ovan?
Grym kanal förövrigt!
You know how to clean these pieces hitachi boost sensor PS6105 it's very hard to find for buying y have many problems with this boost sensor Thx for your time
Ok thx for the reply It's very difficult to find someone to make that because I have a 3.0 tid Saab 9-5 2005 177hp and y want to increase the Hp power
Hy please make a video how to remapping Saab 9-5 3.0 tid thanks
Hi.
Also have the 2.3L and the idle is a little rough inside for this car class, new CPS, new TB, new DIC, no air leaks, took it to a Saab specialist, he said all B235 engines are like that at idle.
I have 222.000 km. Is it possible to check all motor mounts by pressing the brake and clutch pedal like you did?
The B205 from your wife seems quieter at idle and most other Youtube B205 seem also quieter than the B235.
Do you also notice the 2.0t quieter at idle than the 2.3t or is it just me?
I´m even considering the GM 3.0t V6 because of the 2.3L rough idle.
May sound snob, but its sad to notice the idle vibrations in a petrol Saab as much as in a W210 320 cdi diesel car 🙁
Do you know where can I find decibel (dB) data from a test (even if its in swedish) where they compare 9-5 petrol different versions?
fråga till dig om du vet nån eller om du har byggt egen baslåda till en Saab 95 från -00. Jag har monterat in en eftermarknads stereo vid namnet Kenwood KMM-101GY till ett slutsteg vid namnet Bass Face DB2.1 och ska driva en bas vid namnet JBL CS-1214. Allt ska vara korrekt kopplat och allting är helt så är ingen fråga om det! Det jag inte förstår är varför inte basen spelar? Det är fortfarande original systemet som spelar fullt ut…. har testat flertal kablar och slutsteg och testat basen i kompisens bil som fungera där. Kan tillägga att jag har nå form av "pilot paket" på min 95:a alltså typ hardan kardon eller vad det heter, vilket jag förmodrar är AS3. Vad har jag gjort för fel? Börjar bli tröttsamt att sitta på original ljud….
Kan tillägga att jag testat med RCA-3,5mm in till steget med mobilen utan resultat. får signal ut men spelar endå inte. basen är hel då vi testade den i polarens bil….
in these kind of videos im allways bummed out if there is no comparison video at the end 🙁
Nice new rims you got there, better than the old ones I must say!