I’m showing how to do the cylinder head bolt retorqueing on a Saab 9-3 but this will work for 900 (1994-1998) Saab 9-3 (1998-2003) and Saab 9-5 and maybe the…
I’m showing how to do the cylinder head bolt retorqueing on a Saab 9-3 but this will work for 900 (1994-1998) Saab 9-3 (1998-2003) and Saab 9-5 and maybe the…
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From a Saab shop manual from the dealer ship.
CORRECTAMUNDO
it did for a bit but what happened as i found out later is the guy who
owned the car had used more water than anti freeze and ended up cracking
the head on the edge near the water pump. but it was good for about 5
months until it started going through alot of coolant
nigga fuck you… you didnt even retorque it
wait, so do u have to losen all the bolts first, then retighten? this
scaress the shit out of me. i always thought that once u break the seal
then u need to switch gasket?
well this was friend of mine and he is a bit cheap and we reused his, but i
have a 2001 9-3 Viggen but i bought a new valve cover gasket for it just
cuz its was worth more to me, The new valve cover gasket should only run
you about $30-40 max. lol this 9-3… this 9-3 had like 674,875Km on it…
it was on its last legs for most the most of it so this was just to help it
go a tad longer
it depends on some of the years and engines. i got a shop book from the
Saab dealer before they closed down 🙁
Thanks for the video! It always helps to see whats going on. Quick
question, you removed the valve covers first, when you reinstalled the
valve covers did you have to use a new gasket?
No.. lol you do one at a time if you go on Genuine Saabs web side there is
a PDF on how to do this but you do one at a time.
Where did you get your torque figure from? I have read 44ft.lbs is the
correct amount.
did it work?