This is a complete How-To Video for replacement of VSS in a 3000GT VR4. This is the first time I’ve done this job so everything might not be perfect and I’d …
Valve Stem Seal Replacement – CntrlSwitch How-To
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- Tags:
CntrlSwitch, Howto, Replacement, Seal, stem, VALVE
- Categories: Mitsubishi
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Best video about Valve Stem Seal Replacement of all time! Been looking for
a DIY video for Valve stem replacements. Thanks!
I was surprised at how young you are. Very clear, both the visual and the
audio. A lot of other people who have videos on the Internet could learn
from your presentation.
it says it contains video from Warren Chappell rights infringement crap!
hey man i just need to change my valve cover gasket do i need to remove the
timeingbelt
Hi.
My Nissan Altima has a lot of oil burning. one mechanic says its valve
seals shod be changed and requested a bout 500$. what’s your idea? is it
reasonable? it’s not related to piston or piston ring? or even head gasket?
Can he check these item ( Piston, piston ring and head gasket ) when
repairing valve seals??
This is stupid .. they discontinued it
Well on my iPhone it says the video was taken down…
Never got to watch it’s taken down damn!
Thank you very much for your work, from Spain some follow your progress,
not personally serve to make errors, greetings.
Good job! Thanks a lot for taking the time to do these videos, especially
this one. I need my VSS replaced as well but even after watching that just
once I am still unsure that I can do it without really messing up my car. I
have read all there on 3si and stealth316 but it looks like a lot and I
have never gotten that far into any engine. Maybe I need to watch a 2nd
time! 🙂
um okk i see… well thank you 🙂 i appreciate the help. keep it & you
should upload more vids doing things just saying lol
what my suggestion is just take out the engine and that’s make it
easier.Because V6 is more complicated. Thanks
Amazing video. I`m going to do this job on a Volvo 850 turbo soon and it
really helped me understand what I`m in for, especially, understanding what
creates that puff of smoke after idling, helped me pin point exactly that
my valve seals are the culprit of me not passing the emissions test. Crazy
how $24 of parts can make so much work.
at 44:44 you said the inner once get 8 foot lbs and the outside get 16, i
tried that and as i tightened the middle once first at 3 to 4 steps, the
screws broke…and now i have to drill inside to get the remains. what did
you do different?
How many miles on the engine?
lol forgot about that! It’s right at 50:03 for anyone who is curious.
this looks very difficult to do. especially cuz im really not a handy man :/
Hey great video! I was wondering what assembly lube you used 40 minutes
into your video. Is it moly based?
DEADMAU5 🙂
compressed air helps with the TDC
dead mau 5
Great video man!!!!! I’m getting ready to start this project tomorrow but I
gotta say it looks kinda difficult I mean at least the timing and cam part
everything else looked smooth. Thanks 100 times for the video wish me
luck!!!!!!!
Great guide! Can you post the OEM part numbers you used? (Best place to get
them these days?) Also, I had timing belt done last year, can I reuse the
cam seals?
Thanks! I couldn’t believe how long it ended up being and that youtube took
the 1GB upload lol
I didn’t trust the regulator on the air compressor. If you have a nice
regulator on your compressor by all means take advantage of it.
SO, how do I take the valve springs off? You cover just about everything
except that, which would be the key part of this tutorial.
-________________-
And that cam seal needs a certain amount of oil to keep it lubricated,
thats another reason from not sealing up the cap!
Was that ticking simply oil flow from sitting for a while? A product called
Kreen from Kano Labs will help clean that engine up. Industrial strength
carbon dissolver. Use 1/2 qt for 1k towards the end of an oil change.
dissolves sludge, varnish, etc. Should resolve that vs. mechanical fix.
if the mark on the crank is set 4 teeth back (counter clockwise) you can
rotate all cams to your hearts content… as in the valves won’t hit
pistons. Its just always a good idea to be careful and rotate the cams
slowly incase you have something off.
Yea the lifter tick has gone away since. The smoking was fixed by open
venting my pcv system, which to my understanding is helping the rings (vss
were seated just fine) make a better seal although it’s been a while since
I’ve read up on it
Alot of valve spring compressor tools are setup to be used with the head
off the car since they essentially clamp over the entire head. This is the
only style tool available to be purchased I’m aware of. I know people have
made there own by bolting a bar using the cam cap holes and using that
point to get leverage(hard to explain without photo).
At the point where you removed the valve cover, in order to replace a head
gasket do you have to remove the cams or can you just unbolt the head and
remove it
Thanks good to hear! goodluck with your rebuild!
Did the head of the screw snap off? I’d be surprised if it did with only 8
ft lbs of torque. I didn’t do anything different than what you explained
except making sure they are threading in smoothly and that the threads are
clean before I put them in. Sorry to hear about your luck!
I had a cap bolt break to, and an easy out break in the broken bolt. Both
beneath the surface. Never broke anything before at 8 lbs. I’m looking for
a used head to replace it with. Since our heads run front to back and the
salvage list them in left and right can you tell me which one is the left
or right? Thank you.
does anyone know how to remove a 6g72 from a montero sport 1998? thanks.
@0:30:27 – that isn’t “the air pressurizing the cylinder”, that’s your
intake valves leaking and not sealing.
Nice vid outlines some good steps