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Mitsubishi DLP Electrical Chassis Rebuild DM FMT WD 52825 62825 52525 52725 62725
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52525, 52725, 52825, 62725, 62825, CHASSIS, Electrical, Mitsubishi, rebuild
- Categories: Mitsubishi
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Have you done any work on the V36 chassis found in the Mit WD-65733? I’ve
got a main board that has some issues (934c260002). I have a green blinking
light and no startup. Blinking light continues as long as it is plugged in.
I think I’m going to cancel my satellite subscription, as I have spent more
time watching your long videos than tv at night!!
Hey!! I would really really appreciate some help with my wd-52525. It has
this same picture problem. The menus dot have the lines. When I’m on a
digital channel the lines are not there. But every other source even hdmi
there are lines. Would that mean all the caps?
I have a wd 52525 that seems to be working fine. It boots to a blue screen
and thats it. I can switch it to computer and the picture is perfect but
there’s no longer sound. Switching to anything hooked up through the
component hookups just sends it back to the blue screen.
Good video I like them all actually. I was wondering if you had any info on
a Mitsubishi wd-62526 green blinking standby light followed by 4 orange
status lights. Any help would be appreciated
If its never been rebuilt then its sounds like its time to do so. sorry
Does the fan on the electrical chassis run at a constant speed or is it
slow and sluggish, speed up and slow down?
Hey NorCal, blinking green light for 52 seconds. Thanks.
I cant reply to you directly you have it blocked. I have stopped doing part
by part capacitor replacement and only replace them all at this time. It is
the only way to be sure that the repair is solid. The list is the original
caps. I always replace all of the 47m with 25 volts and the 100m with 16
volts just because I know they will fit and so on. That way it minimizes
the number of different caps you must order.
I started to have the exact problem myself no matter what video input, but
menu looks fine. I posted a video. I think it’s time to break down and
replace caps.. ;-(
very thin black and green individual wires go the filter switch. Connector
“CC” is the cable to the door switch. It is a larger black shielded cable
with red and white wires inside. Also look at the video and check the error
codes.
This is such a wonderful video. Would love it if you could give me a
little help. I have the 52525 & after 4 years it made a huge popping noise
& went out. Opened it up & changed 5 caps, replaced lamp ballast, & figured
out that the noise was the color wheel exploding! Replaced that. Worked
great. Now 2 yrs later, went out. Replaced 2 more caps. Powers on but looks
like a very, very fast slide show of the program it is tuned into. Think it
would most likely be the DM board causing this?
I wish you made this video years ago. I needed this done and they were
going to charge me over $500, so I bought a new TV.
yep I think I left off the 47m 6.3v in the list. I will take another look.
Thanks
great video. Not sure how to change the capacitors and if I will get the
shock of my life. What would it take to send you the chassi?
all those 47’s and 100’s on the fmt board need to be replaced thats the
symptom when they go bad
I have a Mitsubishi WD-73C10. I update via usb drive due to audio issues as
directed by Mitsubishi. Everything seemed to install properly until the
next morning. When I turned on my tv my status light stays solid green and
the blue welcome screen comes up and will not allow me to do anything
except power down. I’m confident that I have the ability to replace any of
these boards, I’m just positive it’s the main board? Please help!!!
Sweet going to check it now
I think if you watch the video, you would see he says you need to change
all of the caps on the FM and DM boards if you want to eliminate the lines.
Also change any bulging caps on the jack panel, power supply, and signal
boards.
When it shuts down does the green light blink for 60 -90 seconds? if so the
chassis needs rebuilt. on mits remote press in this order MENU, 2,4,5,7.
then rew and ff buttons to change test patterns. Do the patterns have
distortion also?
Check the caps on the jack panel and signal board. Does HDMI work, Also
tuner input? sounds like the majority of the set is working.
Awesome video! Nice soldering too.
You are a talented man. Your video is VERY well done and your soldering
skilzz are impressive 😉 Thanks
I’ve done a couple of dozen of these over the years, but I’d like to point
out that most boards using smd caps will NOT survive the twist method.
These Mits boards are very sturdy, but that’s not the case in most.
I love happy customers
Awesome video it has helped me so far. I can get my WD62525 to boot with
the 4 prong connector unplugged. And as long as I keep the tv plugged in it
will keep powering on but when I unplug it I get the constant blinking
light. I have replaced the 4 1000uf 16v caps and still no luck. Any ideas?
Hi, I just got my hands on a WD-62525 and I am working on replacing the
caps. I noticed in the video you didn’t have to do any work on the power
supply. The power supply in this TV I’m working on has two bulged and
corroded caps on the 3300uf 10v caps and all four 1000uf 16v caps are
bulging. Is it safe to replace the four 1000uf 16v caps with the same
suggested 680uf 16v caps you mention in the video? I have the caps and they
are rated for 105C.
This is called the Nightmare Chassis
Hi. Very well done, informative video. I am having a problem with a
recently bought WD62525 model. The only issue I am having is the TV turns
off randomly causing the blinking green light to cycle on every time it
does this (which can happen every 5 minutes to every hour or so). The
picture quality is great I have no problems there so I do not think an
entire DM board or Capacitor replacement is necessary. I’m thinking it may
be an overheating problem? Any insight would be appreciate. Thanks!
I had the bulb tested and works fine
I’d like to buy all the caps to do the same work you showed here. Is there
a cap kit containing all the needed caps? By the way I wouldn’t mind to
send you the board and pay you for your job….It appears that enough
people here are wiling to do the same. Think about it because thee are the
same boards that you show in the video…
So should the 47M 4v actually be 47M 6v? (all 33 of them) Or are there
others that you just forgot to list and they should be added to the list?
I’m about to dig into a WD-52725 so I just wanted to clarify. (and I admit,
just being a bit lazy to look through the service manual at the moment)
Awesome video by the way.
I have never tried to use a 525 DM with an 825 FMT so I cant give you any
advice here. but I would think that the only way it would work is with an
525 DM with an 825 FMT. I know you cant boot an 825 DM with the FMT
connector FC disconnected. Sorry I couldnt be more help
try the built in test patterns (menu,2,4,5,7) then use the FF and REW keys
to scroll through the patterns. Is the defect still there? if so then
suspect the DMD board(assuming you cleaned the color wheel) if not then the
digital board is the most likely.
I have a Mitsu WD-62525. Squiggly lines, TV will operate then solid blue
screen and shut off. Did reset. Pic is terrific again. Still shutting down,
sometimes with blue screen other times she just shuts down. Does this seem
like a capacitor problem or something more horrifying? Any wisdom would be
greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!
I have replaced the capacitors on the Power Board, including the 10uF 50V.
The TV clicks when it gets plugged in, the green light on the front blinks
and the fan on top of the chassis runs. The Green timer light never stops
flashing, no matter how long you leave it plugged in. Any Idea what else I
should do?
Thanks for all the info, i have a wd65737 and after a power outage we cut
it back on and all it’ll do is bring up the welcome screen and it keeps
getting brighter and brighter and the green standby light just continuously
blinks, which board would I need to fix this problem and do you have any
that you’ve redone with the different caps like this repair? Thanks
That is correct. I recommend the original type “OSRAM” bulb. Some knockoffs
have a very short lifespan. You can get an OSRAM for $50-$75
Do you have a video or instructions on getting the chassis out to begin
with? I am close to getting it out but am sure I could do better if there
were instructions. Or perhaps a place to get a service manual? Thanks.
Great Video!! I have the 62825 and just a blue screen, no sound but I do
have the menu. I tried the reset and it doesn’t matter if it’s on cable or
dvd, still just a blue screen and then after awhile it turns off. There are
NO lights flashing on the front, just the normal green power light. Is this
a power source problem? If I ordered all the caps from Digi-Key do you know
what part number they would be? Thanks for your help. I love this TV but
can’t see spending $500 on a service call.
mitsubishi tv wd-52525 ir sensor replacement if you tell me please
most SMDs are in parallel with other caps and virtually impossible to check
until out of circuit
If the top fan in the chassis does not run then the chassis is not making
its 6-7 volts and the 12 volts. suspect the little cap on the p/s board as
in the video at 4:44 10m 50v, it will cause a dead set. The hard drive has
its own power supply
Yes the power comes on to the tv and when it comes on there is a click. One
of the fans does come on. I dont think the color wheel turns on. when i
plug the power cable in (with the format board wire at the top of the board
unplugged) the machine boots up. i hear the click and one of the fans comes
on. the blinking green light comes on i plug the wire of the format board
back in and the light goes off. i click the power button and then there is
a solid green light, but no light from bulb.
Both fans don’t run at all. All I get are two clicks when I plug the unit
in. Last night while troubleshooting the TV I did hit the reset button and
got the green blinking light again but that was only temporary. One I
plugged in the TV again today I just got a solid red status light.
I’m in northern ca… I think I’m in over my heard. Can I take the chassis
to you and pay you to do it? How much would you charge if the answer is yes?
I have the 52525 and a power surge must have blown the smaller 10V-50uF
capacitor as the cooling fan for the boards barely spins intermittently
.The front timer light will blink about 10 times then pause…….10 times
then pause. I have the entire unit disassembled and am ready to solder the
new one in if I could find one. Mouser has none in stock and wants 60 bucks
to make a batch. Do you happen to have a 10 volt 50uF capacitor I could
buy. I can pay through paypal.
before the lamp will light the color wheel must start. any blinking LED’s
lights when the set times out?
hey can me help with this a few months ago i change the caps out 3300uf 10v
that stopped the lamp form coming on and they where bugged at the top. but
now the lamp is back doing the same thing know lights up an goes off. so i
took it apart and the cap look fine but i dont know if they are bad
because they are not big at top. my set is wd-52525