I found water in the lower unit of my 225 HP Yamaha 2-stroke outboard motor and changed the lower-unit seals without removing the lower bearing casing. The b…
Lower unit seal replacement pt 1 of 3 – upper seal experiments
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experiments, Lower, Replacement, Seal, Unit, upper
- Categories: Mercury
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The gasket dressing is a bad idea, it’s going to get into the bearing.
SPEAK UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!….stop mumbling to
yourself!
Very good and informative but sound is diabolical— sorry.
Thanks for posting your video.
and where did you buy your slide hammer? I need to do the same thing to mine
you over did the psi dude
Thanks and sorry about the audio – if you use headphones it is a lot
clearer.
I purchased a 6 hp Hangkai outboard , itd a Chinese knockoff of a
Yamaha…i bought one 7 years ago and it held up fine, but I bought a new
one recently and I think lower unit is trying to leak…any tips would be
greatly appreciated….Thanks
@DaBrIGGS07: My compressor was set to 10 PSI which is not too much at it
supposedly will hold 14.2 PSI. If you Google “Yamaha lower unit pressure
14.2” (without the quotes) you get lots of hits from people talking about
pressure testing.
try putting the seal housing in a vice next time. that way you arent
fighting against yourself
Thanks for the video, I used the same “drill and screw” technique. For the
record, when they say removing the prop hub is a pain in the ass, they
aren’t kidding. In fact, this entire job was an EPIC pain in the ass.
However thank you and if I may provide an additional tip – your machine
screw option didn’t work out so well for me. DRYWALL screws, the speed type
with wide ribs worked great. Literally ripped the oil seal right out.
Gasket seal compensated the nicks and dents.
It looks like you put those oil seals in the opposite way from which you
found them. Which way is correct?
what kind of sealent did you use?
your supposed to have no oil to pressure test, also test at 7psi
The oil was drained prior to injecting the air. For my case the leak was so
band it bubbled at any pressure.When I was done it didn’t bubble at 10 psi.
thanks for the “how to”. I’ve read others using the screw method to pull
the seals. I will however agree with whomever said the audio is horrible.
parts of it I couldn’t hear what you were saying at all, and then the tv or
radio in the background for parts of it….. but thanks for showing how to
do this. I’ve just changed my lower unit oil and it was pure milk, time to
change the seals. you just showed me how!
hi i can not find Johnson Evenrude Gasket Sealing in my country. then can i
use permatex aviation? witch one is better?
All I can say is “Thank you very much”, used the punch instead of the
puller with WD-40 all is good, ordering new parts to put it back together.
I have a 2001 115 TLRZ. From what i know, this is a 4th hand boat, last
owner was rather pathetic. Did not deserve the privilege of a boat, I am
cleaning up all his messes.
The two gasket sealants I used were Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket and
Johnson Evenrude Gasket Sealing Compound. I don’t think the Aviation
Form-A-Gasket was necessary but might help if you have corrosion or pitting
in the area. Good luck.
I followed the Yamaha Service procedure for seal direction – spring up or
out for both seals. Yamaha faces both seals in the same direction which is
different from Evinrude and Merc which face them in opposing directions
with the spring facing in on the inner seal. I don’t know which way is
better but in the past I have had slightly more water problems with Yamahas
than either Evinrude or Merc
I bought the slide hammer from Amazon for around $50. See the comments
under Part 3 where someone used pliers instead of a slide hammer.