How To: Replace Motor Mounts On A Mercury Villager or Nissan Quest

How To: Replace Motor Mounts On A Mercury Villager or Nissan Quest

This is a step by step instructional video on changing the engine motor mount and transmission mounts on a Nissan Quest or Mercury Villager. All four mounts are replaced in this tutorial. This is a strenuous repair and you should watch to determine if this is something you can do yourself.

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Lucy My says:

Great video thanks

jadesystem says:

I'm not sure why these engine mounts fail in such low-mileage of less than 65k miles ? This is unheard of unless there is a design flaw. How the mounts support the combined weight of the engine and transmission as a whole front-wheel drive system , its mounting position, its center of gravity, its dampening effect, and the weight ratio of these mounts to handle the stress of everyday driving before MTBF. (failure) Sounds like this is a common problem from your video comments.

jadesystem says:

Kudos to you on an unbelievable task at-hand. This is extreme yet very informative video. I have the same color and style of last year made 02 Villager minivan. This knocking noise sounds like and emulates a bad CV joint going-out. I've changed CV joints but these motor mounts are just too labor intensive unless you want to get down and dirty. Wow, thank you for your tenacity in your brave documentation of this procedure. Its not for the faint-hearted but for the true ultimate DIYer and backyard mechanic who wants to save money and be challenged. All the best Mr. Scheer !!

Rigo Vera says:

Good video I got to do mine

Vincent Silva says:

Omg , good to learned how doing this hard work thank you for your help

jmj cano says:

good job thank you.

Jacques Daoud says:

Warning warning warning I just finished my four motor Mount It's not EZ job you have to be prepare first think before you star make sour all the parts matches the driver said rear one have to have small cut or channel because on the housing has small lip if the new one don't have't don't try to star your ferny it not going. To fit the channel is on the top facing out said this is number one then when you assemble live every think loose until you put everything number three don't do it on the street or by auto zone it no EZ

Jacques Daoud says:

Nice job but first take out the crossmembers and then the motor mounts

TOM RADER says:

Patient guy! Great job dude

TOM RADER says:

Good narration

Elugo lugo says:

No sir thank you. Don'tt thank us for watching the video. You help me alot very detail tutorial. Now i am ready to change mine

Boomer Dioramas says:

The camera work, lighting and positioning is excellent. You are right about replacing all four Engine/Trans-axle mounts. Good job! Thumbs up.

papa london says:

I think you should have loosen those bolts while the cross member was still on the car it would have been easier.

Joaquin Gonzalez says:

thanks I will do step by step like you gread video

Tony Peeler says:

Hit it again, once for me please…and once more for my knuckles

Edwards Island says:

Very helpful. The inspection guy failed my fan because of these mounts and wanted over 500 to replace them claiming 5-6 hours of labor. After watching your video, I found a guy who would do it for less than 200 plus a kit for 60 bucks. Thanks for a helpful video. I would do myself too if I have all the tools.

Zack Jalamani says:

A great video. Thanks.
Daniel: if your Mercury Villager is 1999 or 2000 model, can you make a video about changing the Oil Filter, or at least show where it is in video relative to Driver and Gas Tank and how to remove the shield hiding it to get to it. Thanks

JC Mills says:

Hi Dan–anyway as he works if you want to see the various components hes working with and getting at–I upload a supplemental video of pictures and vids to show them. I also give him and others a credit and point out that we do these videos at no profit to help others struggling to get by. You will see my video in the choices. Should you want to pinpoint it just put jeffc no space at the tail end of the keywords. As he does the hardest one with the three bolts welded to it–it is actually easy to get to though you cant see the bolts in the dark. My format ive switched to is I dont video showing how to put a socket on a bolt–I instead use photos and videos of the components sitting out. I also uploaded a video explaining the names of each mount.

JC Mills says:

when he does the third mount–be aware that the camera changes position by 90 degrees.

JC Mills says:

Good video thanks. I did my passenger side mounts yesterday and I alternated the method a bit and worked perfect for me. The front mount I took out the top screw in the rubber. But the back one I took out the BOTTOM 2 bolts. Then after dropping the crossmember. I then had perfect access to the totally exposed 17mm up there–then I simply dropped the mount. When I installed I hung BOTH mounts like christmas tree ornaments–the lifted up the crossmember and wiggled through the bolts leaving a half inch play in the crossmember to manuever it up and down while shaking the bolts in. you have to be sure to cautiously tight down all bolts after and the back mount when hanging it–you can tighten down the top bolt hard as long as its hanging. Its position will line up perfect unless you twist it at an angle while fooling around.

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