I looked all over the place for info and “How-to” videos when researching this job. This is a 2002 model Explorer, fastener sizes may vary by year. This isn’…
Ford Explorer Independent Rear Suspension, Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub Replacement
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Bearing, Explorer, Ford, independent, Rear, Replacement, Suspension, Wheel
- Categories: Mercury
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Useless video…..take it to a garage to press it out???? Why did you even
get dirty??
Thanks was a good help.
what a waste!!!
T
Helped me! I needed to know for sure what size the axle nut is (35mm) just
to be sure I have all the tools available before starting. FYI – A standard
“home” tool set doesn’t go up that big, doesn’t make
Good video. You actually explain some key things that I’m certain many
would skip. Like spinning over and around so you can get to that rear
tierod. I have done dozens of these and it is not simple the first time.
Since I own a mobile repair business and have no intention of fighting with
those hub/bearings, I take the knuckle to a machine shop where it takes
them 10 minutes and $35. I have seen some of them seized in the knuckle
where a torch was needed because the press couldn’t get it out.
why didnt you change hole hub assembly easier and dont need to take to a
shop to spend what ever takeing the bearing out of the hub and pushing new
one in, and did u use a gear puller to take out the hub???
You’re right, there was no helpful info in there at all, feel free to
notify the complaints department. you can reach them by clicking on the red
X in the upper right corner of the screen
Think that’s the same problem I’m having. The bearing was probably
generating a lot of heat in the knuckle or something because the shop I
took it to can’t get the bearing out with their press.
man sure would of seen you take the thing off, i mean you loosened all the
bolts but never took the bearing or assembly off? do you really have to
loosen and take all that stuff off to get the bearing out?
funny, wish I saw this video prior to attempting it. Ran into the exact
same problems including the exact same brake shoe falling apart. Except my
usual garage can’t seem to get the bearing pressed out with their shop
press. Guess I’ll need to go to a full machine shop with a stronger press.
when doing this job one should also check the inner and outer toe links. if
they are worn you will have play that causes vibration in the rear wheels
which can cause the bearings to wear faster than they should.
Yeah after looking at the brake cable again that looks like it should work
for me too. Thanks!
Yes, that’s correct but in this case the bond had failed and the friction
material had fallen off the backing. Cheers.
You didn’t explain anything. you need go through the steps of removal and
installation
Unfortunately it does happen. The machine shop I bring it to always heats
it with a torch first before putting it in the rather large press for this
reason. That is why I caution people doing this at home to make sure you
have a back up plan in case it does seize in the knuckle. Also don’t use
“cheap” bearings or else you could be doing it again in 6 months to a year.
I try and use Ford bearings and I have some out there 7-8 years later still
working well.
Just FYI, there is a primary and secondary shoe, I’m the drum. If one is
wearing faster the system is working properly.
No, I used red loctite on it.
This might not make sense, but I’ll try and explain how I do it. There are
2 ways I do it, depending on the style of brake. For this set up I use a
“door trim” tool, it basically looks like a short pry bar, but has a forked
tip. I’ll slip it between the coils on the spring and compress the spring
enough to get a small pair of needle nose vise grips behind the spring and
clamp them to the cable, not too hard, but enough to keep the spring held
back. Then un hook the cable from the lever.
Thanks, this is helpful.
well, that’s random… but that’s ok. Some peoples opinion matter to me,
yours isn’t one of them…
i dont like you
I took out the spring holding the parking brake spring in, then slid the
whole thing out the backing plate. Putting the spring back in proved a
major challenge.
CRAP VIDEO QUALITY
yeah, you’re right
I had to do one of these at work the other day. Took me 2 and a half hours
never having done it before. The hardest part was taking out parking brake
spring to remove the assy off the truck. Pressing the bearings out wasn’t
bad, but getting the ball joint and tie rod loose was a pain. Everything
went back together real easy though.
Could you give me any pointers on removing the Ebrake cable? I have
everything else apart on my 02 Exploder. I just don’t want to damage it
trying to separate it from the knuckle.
did you buy a new axle nut?
Thank you
I’m sorry i didn’t film it in hi-def, 3d with surround…. and it seems
that your CAPS LOCK is stuck