DIY trouble shooting thermostat

DIY trouble shooting thermostat

This is a great video for the beginner DIY. This is a simple way to check your thermostat operation.
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Bryce Hobbs says:

Thank you so much got my grandma's furnace going again!

The Jazz Monastery says:

Wow, it's as if this guy is actually speaking through his nose. I need to strain to understand each word. WTF?

miscellaneousone says:

Thank you so much for the simple explanation that even I can understand. Unfortunately for me, jumping the red and white wires did NOT get my heat working so the problem is elsewhere.

Brown Eagle says:

I hate those stupid they make fun of a person with different abilities. but here the only mediocre are those how watching this video because they don't know shit. and he's how they feel better then self bullying in other person

Melody Jefferson says:

I hear the click but it doesn't come on.

iamME says:

I think you forgot to remove the clothes pin from your nose bro

paul dietrich says:

You talk like you have a mouth full of shit…

Tom says:

Hi there. I have enjoyed lots of your videos and learned quite a bit. Recently, just before this Arctic cold front arrived, my brother in laws mobile homes electric heat died. I ran out to his place and after taking the cover off his furnace wiring I see several wired with all the insulation burned off. Oh crap!! After looking it all over I realized it was all the 24 volt wires that were burned up. So, I replaced all the burnt wires. Still no heat. Since this is a mobile home unit it has two switches, attached to a circuit board with several relays, one for heat or cool, and another switch for fan auto or fan on. I could switch the fan to on and the fan would come on. So I thought the circuit board must be fried. So to get him heat until my friend which is a heat/air guy could make it. I had to replace the 24 volt transformer. I hooked the 24 volt transformer direct to the 24 volt connections of his sequencer. Turned on the fan switch and then he could use his main furnace circuit breaker on to get the house heated up then flip it off until the house started cooling again. Then yesterday my heat/air guy came out. He did say it looked like the circuit board was fried. I looked several places online and the cheapest for his board was around $300.00. So wasn't going to do that on a 20 year old furnace, and he couldn't afford it anyway. So what we did was bypass the circuit board and use a fan relay along with the sequencer to get it going. Now our problem! The house already had on the wall the White Rogers heat/air with the heat/cool system switch and the fan auto/on on the side. So we got it all hooked up. We thought all was fine but then realized the heat and the air conditioner unit outside would both be on when you moved the temp control from heat to cool. The heat/cool switch on the side didn't make any difference. He said the thermostat must be defective and he will come back later on when warmer outside and put on a new thermostat. So, my question to you is is there some internal wiring difference that has to be done to the thermostat to make it work correctly or do you think the thermostat is truly bad? I appreciate your help. Tom

Vernon green says:

So my low voltage fuse keeps blowing , i suspect the wire to the thermostat I have an old two wire mercury thermostat, it kicks on for a while the pop on start up.any suggestions?

Anthony Torti says:

Thankyou sir. The red to white wire method worked to start my furnace, prompting me to get a new thermostat. I'll hook it up and get the house up to 72° before bed just for tonight and get to home depot tomorrow.

James Early says:

For four simple mechanical millivolt non-digital thermostats for wall heater, just for wall heater, one by Honeywell, possibly model number CT87K, the words,"Model Number" clearly not stated, another by Honeywell, possibly model number CT33A, again the words, "Model Number" clearly not stated, both recently bought at Home Depot, and two by Williams, possibly Model Number P322016, again the words, "Model Number," clearly not stated, both bought about seven years ago, tried continuity testing with multimeter with thermostat switches at highest temperature reading with no continuity showing on all four of them. The Williams on and off the wall. The Honeywells still off the wall. Does this mean that all four of these thermostats are bad, even the two new ones?

What must I do to get continuity to show? Any videos on this? See only videos for continuity tests on other objects including digital thermostats.

Bypassing thermostat by twisting two wires coming out of wall sometimes fires up heater. Sometimes tapping on the gas control valve also needed to get heater fired up. Gas control valve also about seven years old. This heater often not ran for months at a time. Maybe even for more than a year. Can gas control valve be merely tapped on to loosen up or must it be replaced?

Experienced knowledgeable responses only, not mere opinions, please.

Ex Pat says:

Do you have a cleft lip or something? Sounds like you're talking through a Kazoo. Can't understand what you're saying…

Tayeb Khelifa says:

How to clean this type of thermos? Please…Thank you very much. 🙂 🙂 🙂

Gus Goose says:

Thanks dude… you make it simple to understand.

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