Excellent video! Help me fix my LH Folding mirror in my CX5. I thought of making a separate video, but I had already reassembled the mirror and I WAS NOT going to remove the spring again 10:00, so I will add some notes in yours:
Before you begin, have in mind that you need special tools (Spare gear kit just in case, Press, 22~24mm deep socket, 6-8 plastics door clips, door clip removal tool, plastic trim tools, patience), and it sums up easily to 4~6hours (maybe 2 if you have everything at hand). The job can be 1~2hr if you just buy the motor.
THIS FIX IS NOT RELATED TO THE PLASTIC GEARS GETTING DAMAGED OR WORN (but may apply as well). READY?
The culprit of this malfunction is just some 0.01Cent plastic guide that breaks. The absence of the guide creates “play” in the gears 11:00. Then, the shattered plastic gets “eaten” by the gears, cracking them or just damaging the gears.
Suggestion: Wear gloves, this is a MESSY job. All foam-protected parts of the cable, are sticky and full of crud. I tried to wash a much as I could the parts with dish soap and let dry.
TIP: If a tool, screw or anything falls inside the door, remove the speaker and rescue your tools.
3:50 warm up the mirror with a heat gun (don’t melt it, about 60C works ok). Try to blast the air in the inside (you can see the plastic bearings from the corner). That way, you will avoid breaking the plastic, if you do, it’s game over for that mirror.
4:43 you can use paper clips, to maintain the plastic tabs in position.
5:17 Use the plastic trim removal tools to pry the plastics. If you use screwdrivers, you will end with dents all over which will remind lifelong.
5:57 you can use the “clip method” again to release the motor, place a cloth under the mirror to prevent damage and create better friction
6:00 you may or may not remove the mirror angle contacts, in my lamp model, I did not, you need to unhook the yellow directional lamp though.
7:35 DO NOT remove the foam protections, you can slide them carefully through the housing without damaging them. They prevent the cables from stripping against the door chassis. If they are damaged, replace them.
9:37 The zip tie was a great idea; I didn’t need to remove it until the end. Use a double zip-tie to have more space to work, makes you hold the pieces in order.
11:37 At this point, you want to change gloves. You don’t want all that crud to be mixed with the white grease. Try to spot (feel with your fingers), small shattered pieces of plastic and remove them.
12:28 Clean the area where you are going to slide/press the wood with rubbing alcohol. Leave no trace of grease.
13:32 Apply the super glue and let it rest upside-down, so the glue won’t drip to the gears. Accelerate the process with hot air
13:58 This part haunted me later when re-assembling. The cylinder is supposed to have a “guide”, so when you reassemble it, it wouldn’t matter the direction you left the mirror (open or closed), and the screws that hold the base would be aligned.
14:08 No need to press with screwdriver, finger-press it. If the screwdriver slips, you might damage the gears.
15:00 Very crucial step, if the tabs are not re-bent, the ring will not snap into position. Some tabs may not align 100%. Maybe 4 tabs locked are enough.
15:27 Use a 22 to 24mm deep socket. I used a 24 (15/16”) and it was in the limit of the motor housing. If you use a smaller diameter, you will not let the metal tabs of the ring expand and it the spring will not compress.
16:00 The cylindrical gear must be placed directly on the motor shaft, as it has a flat guide and you won’t be able to align it.
17:04 Behold the responsible of this whole mess, a single piece of plastic. As you have placed a dowel to hold the gear in place, it shortens the length of the remaining broken plastic guide. Measure with a stick the distance from the dowel to the edge of the housing and trim that out, so the top housing will snap into position. DON’T FORCE IT, just trim a bit more, rinse and repeat.
21:04 Don’t reattach the mirror just yet. Leave it till the end. Re-heat the plastics again. Most likely the white (direction motors) won’t be aligned, fix those when fully installed as you need to make motors come “out” and then snap them in position.
21:29 It the guides don’t align, go back to the car, reconnect the mirror and window controls. Place the mirror in the opposite direction you had it and try to screw the base back again.
23:50 Reassemble everything backwards, take pictures. Place the cable AROUND the window. Make sure the cable parts that touch the chassis are the foamed ones.
Door assembly: In my case, the weather stripping came along with the door. You won’t be able to reinstall the panel with this in the door. Unclick it from the door, and place it on the door (24:17). The weather striping has some lips, those must cover the window chassis and “sandwich” the window glass. Start from the top, punching gently the weather strip clips till you go all over the corners.
Hope this might help anyone else who adventures on this DIY!
Thanks for this video. This was quite a complicated repair from start to finish. But I was able to successfully repair the motor the same way on my 2014 CX-5 which is slightly different. Total cost, €10 for superglue and grease and about 4 hours. You'll need to do the math whether it is worthwhile, as I'm sure the dealer will want to replace the whole mirror (again on older CX-5 model).
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Excellent video! Help me fix my LH Folding mirror in my CX5. I thought of making a separate video, but I had already reassembled the mirror and I WAS NOT going to remove the spring again 10:00, so I will add some notes in yours:
Before you begin, have in mind that you need special tools (Spare gear kit just in case, Press, 22~24mm deep socket, 6-8 plastics door clips, door clip removal tool, plastic trim tools, patience), and it sums up easily to 4~6hours (maybe 2 if you have everything at hand). The job can be 1~2hr if you just buy the motor.
THIS FIX IS NOT RELATED TO THE PLASTIC GEARS GETTING DAMAGED OR WORN (but may apply as well). READY?
The culprit of this malfunction is just some 0.01Cent plastic guide that breaks. The absence of the guide creates “play” in the gears 11:00. Then, the shattered plastic gets “eaten” by the gears, cracking them or just damaging the gears.
Suggestion: Wear gloves, this is a MESSY job. All foam-protected parts of the cable, are sticky and full of crud. I tried to wash a much as I could the parts with dish soap and let dry.
TIP: If a tool, screw or anything falls inside the door, remove the speaker and rescue your tools.
0:51 Use a special clip tool, pulling the door with your hands will only break the clips. Have some spare clips at the ready. https://www.amazon.com/GLK-Removal-Plastic-Revmoal-Fasteners/dp/B0CG5X9TYN/
3:50 warm up the mirror with a heat gun (don’t melt it, about 60C works ok). Try to blast the air in the inside (you can see the plastic bearings from the corner). That way, you will avoid breaking the plastic, if you do, it’s game over for that mirror.
4:43 you can use paper clips, to maintain the plastic tabs in position.
5:17 Use the plastic trim removal tools to pry the plastics. If you use screwdrivers, you will end with dents all over which will remind lifelong.
5:57 you can use the “clip method” again to release the motor, place a cloth under the mirror to prevent damage and create better friction
6:00 you may or may not remove the mirror angle contacts, in my lamp model, I did not, you need to unhook the yellow directional lamp though.
7:35 DO NOT remove the foam protections, you can slide them carefully through the housing without damaging them. They prevent the cables from stripping against the door chassis. If they are damaged, replace them.
9:37 The zip tie was a great idea; I didn’t need to remove it until the end. Use a double zip-tie to have more space to work, makes you hold the pieces in order.
11:37 At this point, you want to change gloves. You don’t want all that crud to be mixed with the white grease. Try to spot (feel with your fingers), small shattered pieces of plastic and remove them.
12:28 Clean the area where you are going to slide/press the wood with rubbing alcohol. Leave no trace of grease.
13:32 Apply the super glue and let it rest upside-down, so the glue won’t drip to the gears. Accelerate the process with hot air
13:58 This part haunted me later when re-assembling. The cylinder is supposed to have a “guide”, so when you reassemble it, it wouldn’t matter the direction you left the mirror (open or closed), and the screws that hold the base would be aligned.
14:08 No need to press with screwdriver, finger-press it. If the screwdriver slips, you might damage the gears.
15:00 Very crucial step, if the tabs are not re-bent, the ring will not snap into position. Some tabs may not align 100%. Maybe 4 tabs locked are enough.
15:27 Use a 22 to 24mm deep socket. I used a 24 (15/16”) and it was in the limit of the motor housing. If you use a smaller diameter, you will not let the metal tabs of the ring expand and it the spring will not compress.
16:00 The cylindrical gear must be placed directly on the motor shaft, as it has a flat guide and you won’t be able to align it.
17:04 Behold the responsible of this whole mess, a single piece of plastic. As you have placed a dowel to hold the gear in place, it shortens the length of the remaining broken plastic guide. Measure with a stick the distance from the dowel to the edge of the housing and trim that out, so the top housing will snap into position. DON’T FORCE IT, just trim a bit more, rinse and repeat.
21:04 Don’t reattach the mirror just yet. Leave it till the end. Re-heat the plastics again. Most likely the white (direction motors) won’t be aligned, fix those when fully installed as you need to make motors come “out” and then snap them in position.
21:29 It the guides don’t align, go back to the car, reconnect the mirror and window controls. Place the mirror in the opposite direction you had it and try to screw the base back again.
23:50 Reassemble everything backwards, take pictures. Place the cable AROUND the window. Make sure the cable parts that touch the chassis are the foamed ones.
Door assembly: In my case, the weather stripping came along with the door. You won’t be able to reinstall the panel with this in the door. Unclick it from the door, and place it on the door (24:17). The weather striping has some lips, those must cover the window chassis and “sandwich” the window glass. Start from the top, punching gently the weather strip clips till you go all over the corners.
Hope this might help anyone else who adventures on this DIY!
Very helpful, watched it a dozen times.
Funny if it was just a blown fuse
Thanks for this video. This was quite a complicated repair from start to finish. But I was able to successfully repair the motor the same way on my 2014 CX-5 which is slightly different. Total cost, €10 for superglue and grease and about 4 hours. You'll need to do the math whether it is worthwhile, as I'm sure the dealer will want to replace the whole mirror (again on older CX-5 model).
And what was actually causing the problem was it that the worm Coke was lifting and jamming the cogs up?
Professional repaired
Any idea how fix it but new Mazda 3 BP (2020)
I have the same problem:(
Thanks Sebastian
Niiiiiiiiiice. You should look into using a service such as Promo SM!