I found there was still an intermittent in the fuel pump circuit even after replacing the fuel pump and tracked it down to the inertia switch. I did try rese…
I found there was still an intermittent in the fuel pump circuit even after replacing the fuel pump and tracked it down to the inertia switch. I did try rese…
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I keep hearing a loud noise outside of my 89 town car by the rear wheel driver side when I open the trunk it sounds louder. It sounds like a loud hissing
Where is the fuel pump relay located on the 89 Lincoln towncar?
How did you bypass the inertia switch?
oh wow yea that is gonna take alotta work…new oil pump or another motor swap/ and a tranny swap or rebuild…lots of work..sounds like it would make a cool video series…
It has no oil pressure in the engine and a bad transmission.
whats wrong with the grand marq?? it looks way to nice to be just rusting there..
the bad one was made in england
Chad you probably want to reduce your keyring a bit or split it into multiple rings… having that many keys hang off the ignition switch will damage the lock cylinder. I keep one small ring for all my car keys, then another for doors and cabinets and things. Trust me, you don’t want to have to replace the ignition switch or tumbler, it’s a pain in the butt.
My friends 1980 Mustang has a serp belt, I was quite surprised to see it. VW was still using V belts until the 2000s!
This style started with the 1981 model year. The base engine was a carbureted 302, but CFI was optional until MPFI became standard across the board in 1986. I think Ford was pretty aggressive with some innovations such as the inertia switch and serpentine belts, which they had started using as early as 1982.
Good to know…I will have to keep that in mind on any Ford vehicles we own or will own.
Your solder joints sure look better than mine, I need to work on that!
Looks like the Mercury has become quite the parts car, but I guess that is good to have around like in this case. You always have extra parts.
Ford – gas safety shutoff – makes me think Pinto!!!
Just proves what my dad said when I was a kid, those fancy cars just have MORE TO GO WRONG WITH THEM!
One time I was looking at a 1970 Lincoln for sale and was reading something about D0VE heads or something on the engine and that stuck in my mind as it was similar to the word “dove”
Now I know what that code means (D=1970’s decade and 0=1970)
Thanks a lot for that information. It almost seems a little odd that the Lincoln switch release date would have been ’81 since I think this body style of Lincoln and fuel-injected engines began with the ’80 model year although the pre ’87? would have been CFI. Maybe the ’80 models didn’t have an inertia switch but new safety regulations required it?
There is no rust at all underneath the car, it has likely stayed in this area all its life and never been exposed to salt and minimal snow and rain.
I did try resetting the old switch, but it had not tripped.
Very nice resolve.
How many miles are on the Lincoln now?
The rust on the outside of the weatherstripping bothers me a bit. How bad is the underside of the car rusted?
holy cow at the 3:00 I remember those texas licence plates back before they were blue when it was just TEXAS and the flag or FLAG and TEXAS
Wow! You got lucky that switch worked.
you can reset the shitch, maybe it needs to be reset?
Everything on the 1978 Grand Marquis will have part numbers beginning with D3, D4, D7, D8 etc. D9 would be 1979 and that of course would be too late.
at 3:44 here is a quick how-to on decoding those part #s:
E1AE- First digit is decade released, E is ’80s, 1 is for 1981, A is Ford product line and E is Engineering.
Next 4 characters are the part number and last series are the revision.
So, Lincoln switch is a 1981-release switch, Mercury is 1987-release. Same basic switch since part number on both is 9341.
E1 and E7 does NOT mean thats the exact year they were made, it means thats the year of that design release.
Inertia switches are annoying in fords = when they get old they go off really easy.
always smack the mounting area close to it , with the engine running to make sure the pump shuts down , then reset it …the life you save will be your own ….it will make a sorta buzzing then click sound a real odd sound you will know it right off when it trips ….
Yup the switches are indead 60-70 bucks , and through the late 80’s through the late 90’s they were very failure prone …..
Good idea swapping the switch.