Bearmach turbo repair kit information . https://gallery.mailchimp.com/8c68a5cfa3facc803e6688427/files/Melett_Turbo.pdf
Checking the pressure at the turbo is a vital check to see how your turbo unit is performing. We need to know that the waste gate actuator is sustaining and regulating the pressure in the turbo at a certain RPM. Not a highly accurate test as you need to estimate the speed of your engine under certain load.
We’ll show you how with some piping and a cheap gauge.
){kind=link}
I have a boost gauge (3 bar) installed as per workshop manual and it barely reads above 0. I have installed a new actuator as I thought it may have failed but clearly not, it was set to the same length as the old one. My turbo has on very rare occasions spun up really fast (1 bar) with a puff os soot/black smoke from the exhaust and took off fast prior to fitting new acuator but most of the times it doesnt seem to work. I have no air leaks in my system I have checked again and again even putting on new hoses all round. I just dont know how im not getting any boost at all ?.
It is a 98 300tdi btw 220000 miles. I have just had a new turbo cartridge fiited to no avail either . What is going wrong please ?.
great explanatory video. I would like to know what are the risks for the turbine or for the rest of the engine to adjust to a higher pressure of up to 1.4 bar ???
Always explained so well. Tks!
On my Disco 300 Tdi, I reach the max pressure of 1-1.1 bar around 2000 RPM. Thanks to Rory ! 😉
Как это перевести на Русский?!!!!!
Now try adjusting the waste gate actuator rod. You can see it but……
Also u won't loose power if that pipe is split it will do the opposite Chris- the turbo will overboost up to approx 25psi Gos like stink lol but turbo life is drastically shortened
Thank you for this vid.
Planned for long time to do such tests. Now all clear)
Great video, but I think he made a mistake. I think delaying the wastegate from opening is done by shortening the rod, and not by increasing its length.
I just read somewhere the best place to put the t-piece is short hose that goes to the waste gate rather than the hose going to the fuel pump. Is this correct or does it not matter?
these videos are indeed awesome.
that is kings Lynn!
I have worn a groove in that road when travelling to Cromer over the years. I know it's not far when I get to the Sandringham roundabout 🙂
This is food for thought as I'm struggling to go beyond 70mph at 3000RPM in my Discovery 300TDI regardless of changing the lift pump for Delphi and genuine fuel filter. No fuel line leaks anymore, desedimenter gone, I even changed soft induction hoses for Britpart silicones. Bizarrely it pulls like a train but it's still not going above 70 like it used to.
Perhaps the waste gate or related and barely visible pipes could be the issue!
these vids are awesome!
how can i increase the boost psi on my 300tdi to give me more power
Great detail
I've outfitted my 300tdi 11 Defender with a separate turbo boost gauge, t'eed into the line with nylon pipe and mounted on the dash. That way, I can see what is up with the turbo as I drive. I've also fitted a handy "MadMan" monitor from South Africa (http://madman.co.za/index.php/products1/category/ems-units) which gives continuous readout of important values. These can vary depending on the sensors fitted, but I have EGT as one, so again I can keep an eye on how I am stressing the turbo if towing up a hill, for example. Which reminds me – some say never tow uphill with an R380 in 5th
Thanks for the great videos! I've bought several new 300tdi turbos for friends outside the UK. They always seem to come with the casting to connect to the manifold, yet it is not usually necessary to replace it. As I am reshipping and weight costs, I have stripped off the casting and just sent the turbo itself with protective covers over the openings. Never had a problem. So why are they supplied with an (probably) unneeded casting?
should have said on 97 130 defender cheers