Making up some anderson plug jump leads for a land rover defender, shows the soldering process and general advice on using them. This setup saves having to r…
Making up some anderson plug jump leads for a land rover defender, shows the soldering process and general advice on using them. This setup saves having to r…
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Very nice video. I am thinking of putting this setup on my VW Vanagon
Syncro as the battery is also under the passenger seat. I was dreading
looking for a crimp tool. My plan is to go one step further and get a third
Anderson connector to use on the clamps that were cutoff. I can then
reconnect the clamps to keep the original “clamps to clamps” configuration
for everyone else in the world. Thanks for posting your video.
Hi Mark, I don’t know of anything off the top of my head, I would imagine
you require something for a marine environment. But because the terminals
are silver coated the plugs themselves withstand corrosion very well. Mine
still look fine now and because of the open design water doesn’t get
trapped. I guess you could fit a boot and pump silicon into the other side
but I doubt it would be 100% waterproof.
how do you make anderson connectors totally waterproof so that when the
caps are removed and you plug them in in the rain that no water can come
into contact with the terminals. these anderson connectors are still
exposed to rain. can you get fully waterproof anderson connectors where the
temrinals are fully enclosed
cool good job
lookin good mate. its always the little things that take time but make a
truck isant it? well done. H
@desparky hi thanks for the comment, I must admit I’m no expert, I purely
made the video as no one else had covered it. But what your saying makes
perfect sense. I did try and tin the wires, but my girly iron couldn’t
transfer enough heat and the blow lap just made a mess 🙂
Thanks for this mate,, I was looking to see how these work as i want to use
some for my RF amplifier in my truck!! Rock on!!!
This is fantastic, exactly what I was looking for! I know have a weekend
project for my 90!
Great video! Hey, and just so you know: that’s no special silver plating.
It’s a thick tin plating so it’s corrosion resistant, since copper tends to
oxidize fairly easy 😉
Cool. I extened the battery conectors on my Landy and the battery now lives
in a old tool box behind the passenger seat.
I haven’t used Anderson connectors for about 18 years and thought they
didn’t need a male/female… thanks for confirming that. I thought I may
have been imagining things! Great tutorial, my only suggestions would be to
“tin” the cable first, and also, when I was taught soldering (Military
Spec), to never quench any solder connection (as you suggested). Always
allow it to cool down by itself (as you did) to prevent crystalysation of
the joint. Thanks for refreshing my memory.
I think I picked up the solder from a plumbing shop, can’t remember now.
Connection is rock solid, obvious if you can get them crimped properly that
is better, but this is the next best way.
Looks like you still have to adjust the seat to gain access to it. Maybe
better if it was mounted horizontally.
no it’s fine, horizontally would mean I need to open the door to plug them
in which I didn’t want to do. They just plug in without any messing about
and reach out both driver and passenger windows
Cheers Harry, it’s something I’ve been meaning to do for ages. In the old
days I would have just stuffed the crimps in a vice and hammered them shut.
But I spent some reading up on it hence the video as no one else had
covered it.
Can you show how you have connected the battery terminals to the battery
clamps please?
Thanks for the tutorial, was wondering how it all fit together. Now I know!
@Zeamus634 they simply went to regular eyelet connections, I use a numax
leisure battery which has the great feature of normal terminal lugs and 8mm
bolt fixings built onto the battery. But you can usually just use the
eyelet connection on the regular terminal clamping bolts on normal batteries
No problem, to be honest you probably don’t need to use cable that heavy if
your just powering an inverter that size. Good luck with the project.
The fitters where i work always solder them instead of crimping…They are
quite a pedantic bunch and it just seems the proper way of doing things….
Have already wired my Disco 300 with suitable leads an Anderson
Connectors… Damn sight easier than faffing about with the bonnet up when
someone needs jumping off… Good, well thought out video…thanks for
posting
@Zeamus634 erm, maybe move the socket slightly further in towards the
gearbox, it’s maybe slightly to tight against the door, also I think I
would have made the jump leads 1-2m longer. but apart from that it’s a
great mod that I use constantly. Also the red boot thing lasted about 1
year before getting ripped off.
Very nice, Have you tried it yet?
Cheers, no not yet, probably get some use this weekend trying to get my
mate old golf started.
Most I’ve seen are mounted on the bull bar
Good tutorial, very helpful, thanks
thanks, these were SB175 connectors which according to the spec sheet they
are silver coated andersonpower com/litlib/files.html/download/156
Ahh ok. I was mistaken Regardless, the function of the coating is still the
same: it’s a tough protective layer 😉
@ruuman Thanks for the quick reply, If you did it again, Is there anything
you would do differently?
Cheers, I prefer to heat shrink everything in my Defender as it all sits in
muddy water a lot. Not had a problem with heat shrink trapping water
myself. But I bow to your greater experience. Thanks for your comment
Thanks for a superb video. nice and clear. Thanks