Simple how-to video illustrating how to change the rear pads on your Jeep Wrangler JK. The concept is the same on many different makes and models. I am using…
Simple how-to video illustrating how to change the rear pads on your Jeep Wrangler JK. The concept is the same on many different makes and models. I am using…
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This was a big help thank you :-)
Man, I use mobil 1 synthetic oil and have since 7000 miles when I bought
the Jeep used. I use sometimes mobil filters as well… other times I have
used mopar or toughguard. For what the dealership or a mechanic charges for
dino oil you can run full synthetic and do it yourself easily. I don’t do
anything for rust here in Texas. Other fluids you can just reference your
owners manual unless you find yourself in the mud/water a lot then you
should service trans/dif/t-case periodically.
Thanks.
No problem. Thanks for viewing!
Due, how often you change engine oil? you put mopar oil/filter or any kind
of oil ? dealers usually charge $70 for oil change, and mechanic charge
$30. Secondly regarding other maintenance for example tuning, coolant
flush, brake/trans flush how often you do ? and what about rust proofing ?
Your welcome. Thanks for viewing!
Thanks.
Ceramic are usually more desirable. Less dust, good braking, easier on your
rotors but more expensive. Metallic are better for towing and I believe
offroad because they are more aggressive. I chose semi metallic for this
reason. I tow an offroad trailer alot. Think Continental Divide trail
Mexico to Canada all offroad. I also find myself in steep descents when
towing. Depends really on your budget and how/where you drive your Jeep.
Most cases though, ceramic are the first choice these days.
I have 2010 wrangler 2 dr, which brake pads should i put on, metallic or
ceramic? Thanks.
I had never seen removing the caliper and bracket together, great
timesaver, I too wish you’d shown how to deal with the e brake. Thank You
for a helpful video
Well I did mine today, I had to remove caliper and bracket separate as no
room to get my socket in, as far as the e brake rotor issue, just make sure
brake released, get under the jeep and pound the heck out of the rotor at
caliper location while rotating with a sledge or mallet. Major PITA
Good video, I have a couple other tips. PLEASE use a jack stand. when that
bar went under the Jeep and you chased it I cringed. Once you remove the
caliper you can use a zip tie to secure it so it doesn’t hang on the hose
and you can free your hands because that next tool you need is never in
reach. Also the caliper piston may be hard to back off, you can open the
bleeder enough to purge the fluid thru the bleeder instead of pushing all
the way back thru the system.
Thanks for the reply. I see what you mean. The design is different on the
JK – more like the old CJs. Interesting. Why not keep it like the TJs???
Anyway, I don’t have a reason at this point to make that video, but I will
when I do.
Good video, but the rotor/E-Brake Drum does not just pop off. You have to
back off the E-Brake shoes from the inside of the drum and I was hoping
your video demonstrated that. It does not appear to be that simple as there
is a small window on the back of the heat/debris shield you have to manuver
two small screw drivers to reverse the shoe adjustment. Video on this would
be helpful. Thanks