PLANMAN explains Common source of death wobble on Jeep JK Wranglers

PLANMAN explains Common source of death wobble on Jeep JK Wranglers

To understand your front end and see a Death Wobble Diagnosis, you need to watch my 2 other videos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uQwlmlhiF4&list=UUKzIyplv…

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Will Hart says:

Does this bolt size problem also exist for TJs?

SilentDiablo says:

I heard death wabble shits on death wobble. So it must have been bad!

SilentDiablo says:

Planman you da man!!

mtplanman says:

mdmeltdown, you need to watch my Diagnosing Death Wobble videos. Death
wobble has absolutely nothing to do with tire size. Steering stabilizers
add buffering to the steering system and serve a purpose, but their purpose
is not to counteract worn/failed joints and bushings, loose bolts, and/or
ovaled bracket holes.

mdmeltdown says:

I have to disagree. In many cases, it’s not a matter of fixing steering
components that are worn/damaged. Brand new jeeps can have death wobble.
You get death wobble because of the physics of huge tires. The larger you
go in tire size, so goes the weight. Not only is there more weight, it is
slung around in a larger diameter. This weight is applied to the steering
that was designed for 32″ tires. It’s got to give somewhere. Further,
explain why all jeeps come with steering stabilizers

mtplanman says:

An easily repeatable, speed dependent wobble is nearly always tire/wheel
related. At those speeds, it is common when people run aftermarket wheels
or wheel spacers and neglect to remove the stock lug retainer clips that
hold the disc on the lugs during the manufacturing process. Aftermarket
wheels and wheel spacers require that those clips be removed in order to
have a flush mounting surface.

mtplanman says:

It is the bolt size.

jake denton says:

Thanks for the video 🙂 Anyone ever tell you that, you sound like Nicolas
Cage lol

mtplanman says:

The point is that if the smaller factory bolts loosen off the recommended
torque specs, the small bolts in larger holes aggravate the problem. If the
shouldered 9/16″ bolts were still too loose in the bushing and bracket, I
would have gone with larger bolts. I was genuinely surprised at how loose
the factory bolts were in the holes. This wasn’t meant to “play it up.”

mtplanman says:

A correctly setup JK or TJ does not require a steering stabilizer to
prevent wobbles. A steering stabilizer is a mask of the true source of your
problems. A good steering stabilizer is a nice thing to have, but it does
not fix loose bolts, damaged brackets, worn ball joints, bad tie-rod and
drag link ends, etc., etc. Fix the source(s) of the problem(s) first with
no steering stabilizer before you upgrade your stabilizer.

NMPros says:

@rgarciajr4 Sucks bro. mines been fine for a year. Also fixed the caster
angle, which would heavily effect wobbles while going over bumps.

mtplanman says:

Maybe a 3 on a scale of 10. Very easy. You want a helper to either turn the
steering wheel or rock the vehicle if the trackbar bolts are a little bound
up. 1-2 hours max to change out and torque the new bolts. The 8 longer
bolts are for the lower control arms. The 4 shorter bolts are for the front
and rear trackbars. Replace one bolt at a time. Also, watch my other two
videos on diagnosing DW to better understand your front end.

Mark Doiron says:

Just want to say that if you’ve had DW, chances are the TB bracket holes
are enlarged. In that case, you need to weld some washers on each hole
that’s enlarged. We’ve found that 1/2″ washers are better suited. Washers
typically fit bolts loosely, so go through the bins at your local hardware
store one size down for a tighter fit. To make clear: 9/16″ bolts, but 1/2″
washers welded in place. If you have hogged out holes, the Northridge kits
does NOT come with the best washers to stop DW.

donald fingar says:

do you think this would help with my jk 07

NMPros says:

Wanna learn how to get rid of it? Upgrade your steering stabilizer. The
stock stabilizers are cheap, made for Chrysler cars, and do not hold well
against tires over 28″ diameter. There are alot you can buy, or kits to
double them (just in case you have 40s). I lifted my 2005 TJ to 4″, and
drove the stock 28″ tires. It was fine, until I upgraded my rims and tires
for 33×12.5 and then DEATH wobbles around 33 and 66 mph. It was scary. And
then I upgraded my steering. All better. Hope I helped.

Rob G says:

@NMPros i did that too, but then the steering stabilizers started wearing
out really fast. i think there is much more too it than that.

midnight873 says:

@mtplanman my 03 wrangler has a DW between 30 – 35mph but never slower or
faster then that, any advise? please 🙁

lydon68 says:

Going to do my upper and lower control arms also

mtplanman says:

I don’t have an answer for you on the XJ. Pull it apart and check your
bracket bolt holes for ovaling, the trackbar bracket welds for cracking,
and the trackbar bushing for damage.

Stacy Swingley says:

Hmmm. Seems like I’ve “been-there-done that”. If you’ve got the “death
wobble” check this first.

Frederick Bock says:

I had a similar problem with my ZJ track bar mounting bracket hole as i
replaced the track bar bushing with the poly the sleeve ID is larger thus
the old bolt is loose so i took the sleeve to the hardware store, fits
tight as a drum now. My ZJ is stock height — just replaced all control
arms with Iron Man tubular fixed units and all poly bushings, etc. also
replaced ALL front end parts inc. steering box , plush GC ride is gone
after the poly bushings were installed

mtplanman says:

In the beginning of the video, you can see that even though the bracket
bolt hole was not ovaled out from death wobble, the stock 14 mm bolt was
fairly loose. I’d say that the stock bracket hole is bigger than 14.2mm.

ARAKBuilder says:

I know some of it is maintenance parts on a solid front axle vehicle. But I
just purchased a use 07JK and picked up the synergy bolt kit as a back up
if the wobbles come. In my youth (13 years ago) I worked on my old hotrod
Truck I had all the time. My HOA doesn’t permit workin on cars outside the
garage and mine is full. Is this something that can be done at a friends
house in a day? 1 to 10 difficulty level?

Kyle Powell says:

So just replacing the bolts greatly reduces if not eliminates death wobble,
why the hell hasn’t Chrysler just stopped using 14mm bolts?

mtplanman says:

You still have to maintain your jeep. Your suspension bolts should be
periodically re-torqued. The front trackbar bolts should be retorqued to
125 ft lbs at every oil change interval. The correct size bolts will not
eliminate death wobble if you still fail to maintain your jeep. Basically,
what tends to happen is that the trackbar bolts get out of spec (too low
torque specs), and when this is combined with bolts that are too small, it
makes the susceptibility to death wobble much worse.

midnight873 says:

i do have the stock lug retainer clips im gonna try that and ill let you
know what happend ty very much sir

KilmoreGroup says:

its the size of the thread. 9/16 unc is slightly larger than M14. Spring
washers are crap btw. better off with a fine thread bolt like unf and blue
loctite 242

lydon68 says:

125 ft lbs on both sides? I did this on mine JKS , but did the 85 ft lbs,
front and rear

flahr1 says:

LOL Not sure what death wabble is, but is it worse than death wobble?

mtplanman says:

@lydon68 the JK front trackbar specs are 125 ft lbs for both the frame and
axle side bolts.

mtplanman says:

The TJs have completely different size bolts and bracket bolt holes than
the JKs.

308swampsniper says:

mtplanman, i got the death wobble issue also. when you say you install 9/16
bolts are you referring to the size of the bolt thread and shoulder,or the
size of the hex head?

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