This wasn’t a bad job. Need a good slide hammer and access to a press. (Amazon- OTC 4579 9-way slide hammer). I highly recommend, it is a high quality tool. …
Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Axle Seal Replacement
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This is the correct procedure for replacing leaking oil seals in a 2003 Grand Cherokee Dana 35. The rear axle tubes are pressed into the differential, the seals are on the hubs. There isn’t much oil in the tube but you can expect some. No, its not bearing grease.
what about internal seal inside diff? shouldn’t that be where oil is sealed? you shouldn’t have any gear oil in tube I believe.
the seal you replaced is for bearing grease correct?
Sweet! I’m glad it helped you out. I’ve had a bunch of guys and a girl say the same thing. I appreciate you watching and the comments.
This video was perfect! Same exact vehicle I needed to do it on thanks for the video sir!
Well i had to have a used rearend put in and brakes changed out cost me a whopping 15,000 dollers to have it all done now i hear a grinding when i brake and also when i turn the wheels it grinds i think its the brakes from the used rearend adjusting to the rearend now dont thinks it a big deal let me know ty God Bless
The C doesn’t stand for C clip btw. And there are dana 35’s with and with out c clips. The C stands for custom. The quickest and easiest way to tell if you have c clips (besides removing the diff cover) is checking to see if you have a retaining plate. It’s either one or the other. But you wont have both. If you have 4 bolts holding the axle in then you have no c clips. If nothing is holding the axle in you have c clips. If you have c clips and you break an axle your wheel will peace out
If you can’t afford/rent the slide hammer reverse the rotor and put the lugs on with a couple turns then use the rotor to slide bang/pull the axle out, old trick!
Sounds like a wheel bearing and bad oil seals to me. You’ll know when you take off the wheel if the grease is all over the brake backing plate and caliper as it gets flung out when driving. If not careful your differential oil will all flow out as it heats up. You likely have C-clips holding your axles in place, so make sure you look to see what axle you have.
hi so i have a problem to, i have a 1997 jeep wrangler sport 4.0 and i had looked like grease comming out from under pasenger rear tire and white smoke and hot what is it?
i thought it was a axle bearing and seal shot ty
Thank you for the compliment. I needed to replace the fluid in the differential anyway, so I popped the rear diff cover off and saw there were no c-clips… or fluid for that matter! Yikes!
Love the video, very good how-to. I have a what may be stupid question, but how do you know if you have an axle shaft being held in by c-clips or not? I need to tear into my 2001 WJ rear axle and I don’t want to destroy the inside of my differential.
thanks Steve very well demonstrated
what gear puller did you use to get the race out. model no. name of company? any help would be greatly appreciated . thank you,
Ea. axle typically will have an ID tags on either side of the cover. Mine had two. These metal tags with have axle model, gear ratio, gear oil type/grade, whether its equipped with limited slip differential and required friction modifier. But it may be easier to ID from interweb pictures.
Its stamped on the differential. One side or the other.. but its on there.
how can you find out wich one you have. is it stamped on the part?
did you have to grease up the axle before the new bearing and retainer were pressed on?
It was a Crown kit, axle seal, retainer and new bearing. Bought it off ebay.
where did u buy the seal kit
■Need To Know■ Dana 44A does not have C clips that retain the axle shafts. But Dana 35C does hence the “C”. Some ZJs and WJs came with one or the other. Not knowing this could be disastrous.
Heads Up all.
Well, in the video I use the 20 ton HF press. It works great. I got it because the reviews on the 12 ton weren’t that good. I think a 20 ton is what you need.
Hey what kind of a press should i be looking for to get the job done?
The kit is cheaper than buying each part individually. As I show in the video, the bearing, race and retainer are pressed on, they have to be cut off in order to replace the seal.
Oh, the kit I think was about $70 per side. Bought it off of ebay. Not a lot to the kit, bearing, plate, collar and seal. But it works. The 99-04 Grand Cherokee’s use the same seal kit, WJ is the body style.
Mine is a 2003. The WJ’s seem to go through axle seals every 100K. I haven’t yet replaced the passenger side rear, its not leaking, but I watch it. Its best to replace as soon as you notice it leaking or prior. Once you start seeing the grease coming through the wheel, you’ll have an incredible mess on your hands. And, likely starve the pumpkin of diff oil because driving heats it up and it really starts coming out quick. Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for making this video, it is very helpful! I just wondering what year your grand Cherokee is, because i have one that has that same problem on that same side. it is a 2001. i did not know if it is the same as yours or not? and about how much the kit coast you for that?
Thank you man, glad I helped. I’m not much of a mechanic either, I usually do a little research first and then jump in. I’m thinking of doing a transfer case rebuild next, but have to figure out how I’ll get to work for a few days in case! Most of these things I’ve never done before, I video them and hopefully people learn from me or from my mistakes. Good luck and don’t forget to refill the differential.
Thanks for posting. My Grand Cherokee Limited is leaking like crazy. I have it taken apart now. Waiting for parts. Without your video I couldn’t have done this. I’m not much of a mechanic but with your video I think I can do it. Thanks.