Nissan/Infiniti Knock Sensor Code Easy Fix! | 350z, G35,Fx35, Altima, Maxima & Vq35 Engine

Nissan/Infiniti Knock  Sensor Code Easy Fix! | 350z, G35,Fx35, Altima, Maxima & Vq35 Engine

In today’s video I show you how I fixed a P0327 on a 2003 Infiniti G35.This process will apply to all vq35 engines such as the Nissan 350z, Infiniti G35, Infiniti Fx35, Nissan Altima, Nissan Maxima & All vehicles with a Vq35 Engine. Essentially what I did was fix a weak connection in the wiring harness and that fixed my issue. I strongly suggest to check the connection to and from the knock sensor since this could all cause a check engine light. If you dont see any frayed wires I would replace the knock sensor harness all together. If you found this video entertaining please hit the like button! I hope everyone has an awesome day and I will see you all In the next video!

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THIS VIDEO IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY, DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!

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Comments

ERICSDIYGARAGE says:

Some exciting things are coming soon!Notification Squad you guys are the best!

Kevin Ramos says:

Do you know if changing the knock sensor will help the car shifting I’m experiencing early shifting around 5500 rpm on auto I heard changing it restores shifts it’s not shifting all the way till 6000 like it should

todd sebastian says:

Other than your engine light coming on, what symptoms did you guys get? My idle was too low.. my mechanic got that code today as well as lean fuel.
A month or so ago he cleaned my throttlebody and that fixed the low idle issue but after two weeks it came back.

anthony basdeo says:

Has anyone figured out what tab to push down on to get the wire out from the plastic connector??

seas garage says:

Had the same issue with mine, and my cylinder 2 fuel rail wire was frayed. Currently working on it right now

villa-toro says:

I'll be trying thin in the morning when the car cools down cuz I got that code today

David Collins says:

Bro I’m stuck at 5:00, I can’t figure out where to put the pick (awl) to release the wires. Please help I’ve been at this for a while

ᗒ╬ᗕ1112223333111ᗒ╬ᗕ says:

I bought this from nissan 24079-CD000 this from mazda PE01-18-921 and got the old knock sensor out and new one in from the front and back of the engine.I used a universal joint socket attachment and a $50 borescope off amazon. Nissan wanted $400 for the same knock sensor mazda had oem for $34Get the harness from nissan, its better quality than appty or whoever https://i.imgur.com/0hPJXZX.jpg

Carlos Trevino says:

What exact sensor and wire harness did you use? I need one for my car but there is alot of options that vary in price. I just want one that will work properly and isn't gonna cost me alot.

Abdulwahhab Abdullah says:

Why gear no selection

chris d says:

I think i have rod knock but im not throwing a sencor when i start the car up it knocks and then quiets down at idle but if i rev up the engine to 2 rpms it will knock what do u think this is? Do u think its a spun bearing, or something else

Random DIY says:

What about a knock sensor for P11?

Varian Styles says:

The knock sensor is a piezoelectric device that creates its own voltage. The problem with the broken wire is that the ECU is NOT seeing that voltage. A short between the wires/cutting the wires is the same thing. There will be no voltage going back to the ECU. You'd do better to connect a knock sensor that attached to a bracket mounted on the engine & connect to the orange connector for the ECU to see some voltage (if the knock sensor vibrates too much it would see too high a voltage)

Mr. ScarecrowaH says:

All I see is p0327 when mines 28 same thing or completely different?

Gerald Kirlew says:

wish you showed how you reconnected the wires and what extra wires you used to replace the old one in the baby blue colored connector.

Kevin Reyes says:

Did you only use electrical tape when you reconnected it?

V8pwr says:

So under passenger or driver side?

SEIKO_Z32 says:

New sub here keep up good work

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