Is somebody posting your videos as theirs? It's what someone is saying about another of you videos about seeing multiple modules on a scanner. If it's true how can we tell?
It be cheaper to learn how to check the block and heads for warping with a straight edge and feeler gauges, Hondas are aluminum, however if it’s not been ran hot for an extended time pinged in the red until it stopped, it should be fine, no need for the machine shop to check anything besides the witness marks that tell if the block or head can be milled, and if it’s warped to the point that it can be machined to work, they severely overheated it. My radiator was leaking and I just topped off the coolant dismissing it as a bad intake gasket, until I was driving home from work and.the car just crapped the bed, I ended up going the leak down test route to diagnose the head gaskets, with everyone telling me I’m wrong because Buick 3800 v6s hardly ever blow head gaskets. Granted the 3800s that are running and have coolant/oil mixing are always being misdiagnosed as a bad head gasket gasket when 9 times out of 10 it’s intake gaskets, I literally just did my first head gasket job on my 1998 Pontiac Grrand Prix GTP with 250,270 miles block and heads are cast iron you shouldn’t be warping them, I checked it all myself and saved the extra cost of sending them off like everyone acted like I needed to do, if it’s not warped there’s no sense in having a machine shop take off half a thousandth to make it look brand new. Plus you loose compression ratio due to the reduction of the cc size, your valves are closer to the pistons when you take off material from the block and/or heads. Regardless of the situation the machine shop really doesn’t care if it works or not. I got lucky because my l67 block and heads are cast iron, never seen any crazy warped cast iron engines. Cast iron needs to be Thousands of degrees Fahrenheit to move
15:40 age 11, took my dad's Reo mower engine apart just to see what was inside and how it worked, without his knowledge of course. Got it back together but it wouldn't run … I didn't know anything about camshaft timing unfortunately. I thought I was going to get a good butt tanning but dad was fine with it, we timed the camshaft together, reassembled it, and that old beauty ran for years and years thereafter. I'm still a gearhead 60 years later (nobody touches my great old vehicles but me). Miss you, dad.
depends on how many miles it was driven with coolant in the crankcase, odds are the rod, and main bearings are toast, coolant eats soft shell bearings fast.
This one was a good one for myself. Working on the other side in the machine shops. I’ve encountered these exact heads more times than I can count. Nobody ever takes the cam-cams out when they brought us the heads. They wanted everything lashed exactly as well as the cam set back in the head on TDC whether the head bolts were under the cams or not. Dowel pins……. Who knows. I may have been the one that did that head???? I’m the person that will make dowel pins disappear. I try not to but more often than not they’re gone. Don’t know where. Somewhere with the 10mm sockets and 3/16 allen wrenches. Chris brought up a good on about the head bolts. I’ve seen that detail missed and it’s a No Go. Don’t do it. I pulled a good one on my 66 Mustang. Needed to replace the front and rear seals in the three speed top loader. Didn’t know you weren’t supposed to take the front seal housing off with the tail housing off. Don’t do that. Those Transmissons will disassemble themselves in an instant. Of course I had to do it when an audience of mechanic friends arrived. I was the butt of the joke for the entire evening over that. Learned how to build that three speed for it.
When i was a teen, my neighbor was replace the trannie & clutch on his '64 (?) Plymouth Baaracuda and I was servicing as the trannie jack. (Loads of fun laying in the graas with a four speed on my chest!) I lifted that thing three times before he remembered the throw out bearing!
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Is somebody posting your videos as theirs? It's what someone is saying about another of you videos about seeing multiple modules on a scanner. If it's true how can we tell?
It be cheaper to learn how to check the block and heads for warping with a straight edge and feeler gauges, Hondas are aluminum, however if it’s not been ran hot for an extended time pinged in the red until it stopped, it should be fine, no need for the machine shop to check anything besides the witness marks that tell if the block or head can be milled, and if it’s warped to the point that it can be machined to work, they severely overheated it. My radiator was leaking and I just topped off the coolant dismissing it as a bad intake gasket, until I was driving home from work and.the car just crapped the bed, I ended up going the leak down test route to diagnose the head gaskets, with everyone telling me I’m wrong because Buick 3800 v6s hardly ever blow head gaskets. Granted the 3800s that are running and have coolant/oil mixing are always being misdiagnosed as a bad head gasket gasket when 9 times out of 10 it’s intake gaskets, I literally just did my first head gasket job on my 1998 Pontiac Grrand Prix GTP with 250,270 miles block and heads are cast iron you shouldn’t be warping them, I checked it all myself and saved the extra cost of sending them off like everyone acted like I needed to do, if it’s not warped there’s no sense in having a machine shop take off half a thousandth to make it look brand new. Plus you loose compression ratio due to the reduction of the cc size, your valves are closer to the pistons when you take off material from the block and/or heads. Regardless of the situation the machine shop really doesn’t care if it works or not.
I got lucky because my l67 block and heads are cast iron, never seen any crazy warped cast iron engines. Cast iron needs to be Thousands of degrees Fahrenheit to move
15:40 age 11, took my dad's Reo mower engine apart just to see what was inside and how it worked, without his knowledge of course. Got it back together but it wouldn't run … I didn't know anything about camshaft timing unfortunately. I thought I was going to get a good butt tanning but dad was fine with it, we timed the camshaft together, reassembled it, and that old beauty ran for years and years thereafter. I'm still a gearhead 60 years later (nobody touches my great old vehicles but me). Miss you, dad.
depends on how many miles it was driven with coolant in the crankcase, odds are the rod, and main bearings are toast, coolant eats soft shell bearings fast.
Pulled a VW Beetle engine, put back together with THROW OUT BEARING the wrong direcrion ( it was rear engine drive )
Loved watching the process of elimination pressure test and scope
If you aren't making mistakes, you aren't learning. The key is to make sure you don't make too big of a mistake lol
is that Master Chief in the background?
I can't imagine putting major money into a piece of junk like that
Imma change the head gasket, but I’ll just leave out some parts. Hmmm…. Oddly, having some problems.
You guys are so lucky. Here in Canada all our cars are nothing but rust. We fight with the rust with every repair
That’s just insane. You do a big job taking off the head and the mechanic couldn’t spend a couple minutes putting dowels in ? That’s just wrong
Shouldn't the dowel pins actually be in the block?
This one was a good one for myself.
Working on the other side in the machine shops. I’ve encountered these exact heads more times than I can count.
Nobody ever takes the cam-cams out when they brought us the heads. They wanted everything lashed exactly as well as the cam set back in the head on TDC whether the head bolts were under the cams or not.
Dowel pins……. Who knows. I may have been the one that did that head???? I’m the person that will make dowel pins disappear. I try not to but more often than not they’re gone. Don’t know where. Somewhere with the 10mm sockets and 3/16 allen wrenches.
Chris brought up a good on about the head bolts. I’ve seen that detail missed and it’s a No Go. Don’t do it.
I pulled a good one on my 66 Mustang. Needed to replace the front and rear seals in the three speed top loader.
Didn’t know you weren’t supposed to take the front seal housing off with the tail housing off. Don’t do that. Those Transmissons will disassemble themselves in an instant. Of course I had to do it when an audience of mechanic friends arrived. I was the butt of the joke for the entire evening over that. Learned how to build that three speed for it.
When i was a teen, my neighbor was replace the trannie & clutch on his '64 (?) Plymouth Baaracuda and I was servicing as the trannie jack. (Loads of fun laying in the graas with a four speed on my chest!) I lifted that thing three times before he remembered the throw out bearing!