This video documents replacing the water pump and timing belts on a 1995 Honda Accord four cylinder vtec motor.
This video documents replacing the water pump and timing belts on a 1995 Honda Accord four cylinder vtec motor.
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Those crank bolts are on tight. I have nice Ingersoll rand air impact
wrenches / compressor and my biggest one is 600 ft lb reverse torque.
Didn’t budge it. I ended up putting 200 lb of body weight on a 4′ bar.
That’s 800 ft lbs to break loose! Second honda I did (2009 pilot v6) I
bought a 3/4 drive impact gun from harbor freight for 99 bucks that had
1,000 ft lb reverse torque. That one DID do the job no prob. Lesson learned
was doesn’t matter what brand you use, it still has to be the right tool.
Great explanations and commentary. Thanks for sharing!
Honda says 5.5 hours from what I can find. It sounds more like an 8 to 10
hour backyard wrench time by my “shade tree conversion chart”.
How do I test them? And how often should they cycle and stay on?
This guy is amazing and really knows what he is talking about! wish he
could work on my honda! 🙂 THANKS for the video MR.
wow! awesome video, this is exactly what I was looking for. My dad just
bought a 95 Accord and I said I’d check to see how hard this job would be.
I think I’ll take it to my mechanic… ! Thanks.
impossible because one of the belts turn the pump (not sure if it’s timing
or balancer). Matter of fact the generation after this one is the same
thing, not sure how the new ones are.
That’s an old engine rebuilder’s trick to make sure your rods, lifters,
etc. stay together correctly. 🙂
I like how you trace the part on cardboard then push the screws through to
keep up with parts and the specific part location. Ingenious! That’s a
major hurdle when working on a car. Especially if you are stuck doing it
over a several day period.
Mine leaks from the little weap hole. My issue is I did this less than two
years ago…not gonna lie I didn’t clean around where the water pump mounts
at. But should I use a sealant like silicone as well as the gasket
I have water leak as soon as I put water in my car water drains out
immediately from the drivers side in my 93 honda accord. I’ve been told its
the water pump or head gasket how would I know which it is I know its not
any of the hoses any help please
If you really want a simpler vehicle I would recommend a 1953 Studebaker
Champion. As simple as humanly possible and gets 33+mpg if you drive it
correctly.
This was a training session, so it took us about 10 hours in total. If you
remove the filming time and the training time (for my assistant) and you do
not run into any major issues I’d say 5 to 6 hours. For a more accurate
estimate you could call a Honda dealership as they ave books that specify
how long a job should take.
what parts…..?
I have a question…I changed my water pump no more leaks, changed the
thermostat and radiator cap… but whenever I accelerate hard my
temperature drops towards the blue, and when idling at stop lights and etc.
It rises towards the red. Idk what to do I’ve bled the system and even
changed my over flow tank.
Get a strong flashlight and look for where the water is actually coming
out. If it’s partway down the driver’s side of the engine, then it’s likely
water pump. If it’s coming from near the top of the engine it’s likely head
gasket.
Cheers for your reply you saved us heaps of cash already a big think you
Sorry, just watched the vid again, trans fluid acetone at 50:50 correct?
I have a 2.2 accord and when i did the timing i just used an impact to take
off the crank pulley. easy.
Yes, it is an expensive repair. But as you can see from the steps we take
in the video the cost is in the mechanics labor. Any reputable
shop/dealership uses a standard work table to provide cost estimates for
repairs. The owner of this car had the replacement estimated at somewhere
between $700 to $1,000 if memory serves me correctly. That works out to
about 5 to 6 hours of labor + parts cost which is a pretty good estimate.
you can pay arm and leg at dealership or pay some independant shop.
Well I added the sealant and it worked no problem no more leaks, but I
think my thermostat gotta go lol
I believe that the quote to have the job done professionally was $700 – 800
dollars. Certainly not cheap.
how long did it take you to do this job
im glad im not a novice, these repair prices today are rediculous
Yes, silicone also.
That sort of behavior generally indicates a problem with the cooling fans.
Since they aren’t running the only way to cool the car is forward movement
(which pushes air through the radiator). First thing to do is start the car
and observe the fans. When the engine warms up they should come on. If they
don’t then either the fan, the fan relay or the temperature sensor is not
working correctly. The relay tends to be the culprit so I generally test
those first.
I have a leek that is draining from the water pump is there any way to just
block it or do we have to replace that leek completely? thanks
why do you have to loosen the crank pulley?
Thanks for the information. I am about to dive into one formy daughter.
What was the penetrating mixture you mentioned/ratio? Thannks again!!
I love your idea to make a trcace of timing belt cover and water pump. I
always struggle to put right bolt into the right spot. There is no need to
remove the camshaft sproket and bottom cover. You can get to the bolt just
bending the cover a little. Great video!
Before you do all the final cover and replacing of powr steering and
alternator, crank the engine for a couple of minutes and see if you engine
runs smoothly with all the timing set right. Then retighten the tension and
finish putting everything back together. This way if the timing is wrong
(or you have leaks) you don’t have to take everything off once again.
You need to remove parts that are behind it.
Good luck with that!