Honda Shadow Sabre Clutch Replacement

Honda Shadow Sabre Clutch Replacement

I replaced the fiber plates in clutch of my 2001 Honda Shadow Sabre (VT1100C2). and recorded each step so that you can see how simple it is to perform.

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Chill_Motorcycle_Dude says:

What was the reason why you replaced them? My third gear doesn’t engage, it
grinds then pops out then back to second. Do i have to do this?

shomaniac says:

Thanks for the vid. It was very helpful.

Ricky B says:

Hi, I have to do the same job with mi Honda Shadow VT750 C2.
Could you please tell me which kind of oil have you used (maker and type)
and for what discs?
Thanks a lot

ragweed parks says:

is it the same for a 1995 shadow vt1100c?

john murphy says:

Why soak the clutch in oil ?? Great info thanks

Kenneth Andrus says:

Thanks that’s simple enough for me. I am a highly mechanicly incline
worker.

Biker Spike says:

Would you say that this is the same process for the 125 shadow? Also why do
you soak the fibre ones?
Thanks

ted nugent says:

is it necessary to replace the steel plates. or if they have some black on
them will I notice anything, just don’t want to waste money if I don’t have
to. shadow ’01 1100. are the EBC clutch ok. barnets are a lot more
expensive.

al bourque says:

great video guy.

Doug Smith says:

Thanks for the video..

al bourque says:

90 degree angle seal picks work well to get clutches out too.

dave courtney says:

Thanks for sharing the video. I will have to do this to my Sabre at some
point!

whosslakey says:

haha, i did that too a couple months ago (replaced my OEM clutch plates
with Barnett’s). the dealer wanted to do it for like $400-$500 , i said
heck no i’ll just do it myself (using a clymer manual , of course). not
that hard to do just need to be careful to torque the bolts on the pressure
plate (i learned the hard way, push rod was not happy and busted out 2
bolts while i was testing it out, SCARY moment! ).

Eddie Greenwood says:

This vid helped. Thank you sir!

1022jk says:

Hey man thanks, it’s really great of you to take the time and energy to
post this. You’ve made at least 4,131 people very grateful. But rubber
latex gloves?????? Com’ on, it’s not like your a Proctologist or anything!!
But again, good job.

DanMoto says:

Thanks for the video…

triplethreathouston says:

it’s a wet clutch. you do need to drain the oil. I had fresh oil, so I just
drained into a clean pan, and reused my old oil. Good luck!

triplethreathouston says:

haha!!! My wife and I were going out that night, and I didn’t want my hands
all grubby. Proctologist…that’s funny stuff!

hmong power says:

Question how do I know when to change the clutch out

triplethreathouston says:

that sounds more like your cable is too tight. I think the springs I used
were EBC (aftermarket).

BigDodge440 says:

Good video. You made it look really easy. Did you have to disconnect the
clutch cable before removing the old clutch plates? Thanks

triplethreathouston says:

mine started slipping. it’s pretty noticeable when that starts happening.
The RPM’s go up, but you don’t feel the thrust. usually at the high end of
your shift.

cerber717 says:

Is the clutch staying in oil (wet clutch)? I is a must to drain the oil,
because I thought its dry. please correct my if I am wrong…

Jesus E. Nañez says:

Great video.

BigTed ManShed says:

Great video mate, I have a Barnett clutch on order at the moment and looks
like a simple job to do

triplethreathouston says:

@cyclepro101 it’s as easy as it looks there. the cover plate took a LITTLE
bit to work it off, it didn’t just come off as easy as in the vid, but you
have to pull it off straight out, due to those guide dowels.

philbo50 says:

After watching your video, the job looks pretty straight foward. Looking
foward to doing the job myself. Thanks.

David Schwab says:

did you have to worry about loosening the clutch cable before dissasembly
and readjusting after installation of the new one?

Frogman172 says:

Nice job. I made a step by step with photos for an Aero. Thanks for helping
out the community.

triplethreathouston says:

it was pretty easy!!! I didn’t disconnect the clutch cable. Good luck!

cerber717 says:

Hey, I have changed clutch disks, springs and the oil. And I have a
problem. Every time I start the motorcycle when its cold (like the mornings
, or after the work to ride home) the clutch is stuck, I mean I squeeze the
the handle but the clutch does not disengage. I have to push it really hard
or hold the clutch and start the engine , and if I do that I can tell that
its hard for the engine to brake the stucked disks, after its “unstucked”
every thing is fine. do you have any thoughts ?Thanks

oOqIpOo says:

I might be doing the on my bike, but did it work. Did the clutch get
better? And i guess ill have to leave it in (N) when repairing ?

triplethreathouston says:

also…they should tell you when you buy the plates, but make sure you soak
the new plates prior! I just soaked them overnight. I think they want you
to soak them for a few hours before installation.

Michael Burke says:

About to change out the clutch springs on my 2002 vt1100c with some heavier
duty springs, thanks for the visual.

Matt Bere says:

Hi Great video! thanks… I had a Question though. The service manual says
you need a special tool to take off and put on the clutch… “CLUTCH CENTER
HOLDER” also mentions the “Holder plate” and “Holder Collars” I have the
basic tools and was going to attempt this myself, but wanted to make sure
there were no special tools needed??? thanks and keep up the good work!

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