A fastener by fastener tutorial for testing and removing a faulty ignition switch on a Honda Accord. In part one I cover how to cause an intermittent switch …
94-97 Honda Accord Ignition Switch Replacement Part 1
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So I just go to Honda and tell them I need a ignition thing replacement and
I’ll get for free
Great video, except that it is a nail putter, and not an awl that you need
to get the sear bolts (sp?) out. They came out with the nail putter really
easily!
Busho you are the best man. I have a 97 cl thats pretty similar to your
accord I’ve changed oil sensors vtec solenoid gaskets the lot because of
your page thank you. I have a problem that brought me here though. My turn
signals don’t really work I’ve tried fuses the turn signal relay
everything. my turn signals work every once in a blue moon. They don’t
switch on when they do work they work fine. No burnt bulbs ive checked em
all idk im at wits end here please help.
1994 accord auto. Tested the switch like in the vid. But i put it in drive
and try to start and my dash lights stay on. They dont go dark. Tested the
switch with continuity tester and it tested good. Still crank but no spark.
I just watched your video and it saved me $300. Can’ thank you enough. Your
tip on taking out the searbolts really does work. Replaced them with allen
bolts incase I have to remove again. Tested it this week and it’s fixed.
I have a 94 Acura integra that won’t crank. It’s a standard,when I turn
the key to start, my lights stay on . I don’t have to wiggle the key like
you did. Could ignition switch still be bad ? What else should I change ?
Thanks for the video finished in 30 minutes. …..To all be sure that when
you buy the new switch that the “C” clamp/coupling and shear bolts are
included. The major retail auto parts stores the begin with the letter “A”
just sell the switch@ about $55. I ordered mine from Partsgeek for $30
(shipping@ $8) and received switch, coupling and bolts. They have several
warehouses mine was shipped from NJ, i’m in MD so it arrived the next day.
awesome vid…i got ahead of myself and replaced the main relay. After
watching and mimiking your tutorial everything worked beautifully ..using
the awl was the key. imo
@cangoods100 You need the circuit loaded during the voltage drop test so
yes while cranking. I’ll private message you from here on in since my posts
are getting lengthy.
@chews4life Yes you can just make sure to return the switch to the locked
position before attempting to mate it with the cylinder assembly.
Perfect video on getting this done. Everything clear and accurate. If you
have time order the part number given in part 2 of this video. It’s less
than ordering the parts individually.
I have a problem. After replacing ignition switch only headlights and
dashboard signals light up but everything else is dead and no crank. What
should I do???
Where did you buy the parts? You said they are hard to find but does that
mean u have website you go to or you have location
Best video!!! Bolts go to home depot 70cents each like @ david pope said
home depot 8m x 16mm socket cap screws works perfect. Thanks for the video
While in DC volts put one lead to battery positive and the other to the
positive wire that goes to the solenoid from the battery. Have someone
attempt to crank the vehicle and read the voltage if it’s over 0.7 volts
there is a high resistance connection in the power wire. Do the same for
the ground one probe on battery negative the other probe tip against the
rear end cap of the starter. Any more than 0.2 volts means a bad ground. If
these tests pass your starter is bad.
If voltage is present check the individual ignition switch wires for
battery voltage as you turn the key. You’re going to need a good wiring
diagram to troubleshoot this issue. It’s much easier to understand what I’m
referring to when you see it drawn out.
@rllucase Glad I could help.
Good work! Publish more, will you? Thanks alot!!
should I do the left first before the right? does it matter?
Thanks so much! I started the job without watching your video. I took the
plastic off of the steering column, and saw that there were no slots for a
screwdriver on the bolts. I searched YouTube and your video walked me
through the process. The awe and hammer did the trick with ease. You truly
are a life saver. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Whats the name of the tool your using?
That’s a common issue caused by a bad ignition switch. But perform the
continuity checks outlined in the video so you can be 100% confident when
you go to buy the part. Thanks For Watching.
Awesome video! Best how to video I’ve ever seen! Watched the video one time
and did the repair no problem.
Glad I was able to help.
What if it’s bent? can you make a video for it, please?
Regarding the shear bolts, for those who would like to opt out of the
hammer/chisel method, read the following: If you take a dremel and notch
the head of the bolt, you can take a flat head screwdriver and unscrew the
bolts much more easily. Nice work on the tutorial though, no doubt it’s
helped a lot of people considering how often these ignition switches crap
out.
Very helpful. Thanks so much!
In a hurry to fix my wife’s Honda this evening. No time to buy a book,
couldn’t find a wiring diagram on the web. Found your video and solved the
problem! The web is cool because cool people like you post cool stuff like
this video. Thanks, man!
@Bushougoma This was done on my daughters 96 Accord EX. I’ll post later the
part numbers for the switch as well as the sheer bolts. The dealer didn’t
have a kit for everything. Also when calling the dealer for the ignition
switch they want to sell you the whole assembly which costs over $220.00. I
got out of there for about $70. and with your great video instructions did
the job in less than 30 minutes!!! Thanks!!!
Would this work for a 91 accord?