2004 Honda Element HID Fog Light Install (Part 1) -EricTheCarGuy

2004 Honda Element HID Fog Light Install (Part 1) -EricTheCarGuy

Link to Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvgRommX1Ec&feature=youtu.be Link to Fog Light Kit: http://www.motorfiend.com/honda-element-2003-2004-light-p-…

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aoescool says:

Eric you should do a projector retrofit in the headlight same light out
put..alot more precision without the binding!..did it on my Acura cl. 

IntenseBlue318 says:

Pnp hids are not the right way to do things. All they do is cause glare
that blinds other drivers, and they actually hurt your distance vision in
your fog lights there. They throw all that extra light right in front of
your car, which makes your pupils contract, which lets in less light, and
makes things in the distance appear darker, hence why factory fog lights
turn off when you turn on the high beams. If you really want proper hid
lighting in your car what you need to do is retrofit hid projectors.

Andrew Zimmerman says:

Sweet now you just need some nice rims 

Haloruler64 says:

I actually like that fog lights stay on when high beams are on. My low
beams have a clean cutoff, but when I turn on my high beams, most of the
light is at the cutoff and UP. So whatever is directly in front of you gets
darker. My fog lights keep it lit, so it’s much safer to drive with high
beams on. That’s just me though! I’m sure single filament high means work
better than H4 dual filament bulbs.

Richy GC says:

Eric pull that screen plastic off ya power probe!

Ruben says:

You can use a relay so when you turn on the high beams the Accillary lights
go off. 

felipe de jesus ornelas vega says:

ok. thanks eric!!

Gordon McLellan says:

Those amber bulbs are awesome … I replaced the white fogs with yellow on
my Subaru and they really works well in the snow and rain. The downside is
the Motorfiend 35w ballast, it has a very slow warm-up time. It takes
almost a full sixty seconds for the bulbs to reach operating temperature.

Tdude B. says:

BOOST THAT K24!!!

soutsakhone phoutpanha says:

Should do a retrofit for the headlights. Less glare and way better output
then a pnp kit thrown into a halogen headlight. 

7eis says:

Silly American laws.

DA CHAN MAN says:

hey eric i bought a relay and a fog light kit at Walmart for like $25 and i
was thinking of splicing the lights to the low beam lights but iv always
thought if hit the high beams ill loose the fog lights despite that there
may be a law about that but i do want the fog lights on when the high beams
are on. so i spliced the relay into my running lights right near the
connector to my head light. so now i can even have the fog lights on
without even having my head lights actually on. and i think that brown
connector that you said that doesn’t do anything its most likely a brake
switch for a brake controller for a trailer so it should send power to it
every time you hit the brake pedal.

Matthew Canta says:

Hmm “going back on your word” “diss honest mechanic???”

Corey B says:

Thanks Eric! I really appreciate your videos with your Honda Element. I
just got one and love it! 

Tyler Barton says:

+EricTheCarGuy if you download this pdf (
http://www.handa-accessories.com/element/04fogs.pdf) it will show you how
the OEM kit is installed and might have helped, i dont know if you looked
at it or not before you installed or while you were installing this kit but
i used the same website to look over the installation of my fog lights on
my prelude

TheRoynl1972 says:

never mind, have to lear to finish your videos before commenting :)

Dex Guerrero says:

Use the High Beam feed from the three-prong stock headlight connector and
put in a normally closed relay. Then put the relay’s other end inline from
where you aux lights get power. Once the normally closed relay gets power
(from turning on your high beam), it will kill the power feed to your aux
lights.

Powell CraigslistAcount says:

The sound in the garage makes your voice sound nice. Good quality video.

insylem says:

“Because Racecar!”

Blazer02LS says:

It’s a shame that ALL of these kits are illegal in every state. But it’s
your vehicle and you are responsible.

To everyone who says “Oh these kits are legal” or “They are DOT stamped”

US FEDERAL laws state that ALL HID conversions are illegal PERIOD. The ONLY
time HID is allowed is if the vehicle came from the factory with them.

Here are the standards the ALL lighting on a motor vehicle in the US must
meet.

FMVSS No. 108 Lamps, Reflective Devices and Associated Equipment,
49 CFR 571.108

49 CFR Part 564, Replaceable Light Source Information

Go and read the laws, read the NHTSB interpretations, You will discover
that ALL of these kits are illegal. In every state in the US. The catch is
that like a lot of FMV laws they are not enforced, so people “think” they
are OK.

Brad Kells says:

No part 2 Eric old boy ?

Ryan Blace says:

Hi Eric! Nice video so far.

Couple of thoughts:
1) The HID kit doesn’t need high amps to trigger it. It gets the juice
directly from the battery. It just needs a “signal” to turn on.
2) Your bullet connector in the engine compartment sends +12V, that could
be your “signal”.
3) Basically, you can set the non-HID harness (engine side) aside. Simply
run a jumper line from your bullet to where the HID kit expects the old
foglight to be. You can test this quickly with your powerprobe. Just
connect up the HID and put +12 on that input, the HID lights should come
on. Don’t forget to use the heatshrink terminals and heat gun I sent! 🙂
4) Now we are in really good shape. Odds are that the 3rd wire on the HID
signal input is a high beam sensor. Wire up the HIDs so they are working
and powerprobe +12 on that 3rd input. If the lights to out, you are in
business. Find the high beem line to your headlights and add a jumper wire.
NOW THE FOGLIGHTS WILL SHUTOFF WITH THE HIGH BEAMS ON. 🙂
5) Finally, you already have exactly what you need to make this all work
only when the key or headlights are on. The relay under the dash isn’t
sending high current. Simply rewire it so the magnet is between “KEY ON” or
“HEADLIGHTS ON” and ground. Then between the “Normally Open” and “Common”
contacts put your +12V from the switch and the bullet in the engine. NOW
THE FOGLIGHTS WILL TURN OFF WHEN YOU TURN OFF THE HEADLIGHTS OR THE CAR.

It’d be easier to show with a diagram, but hopefully this makes sense. ;)

garlicson says:

HID is better than halogen. if hid is better, HID projectors are great 🙂 

Sherie Thomas says:

Have you ever done a tutorial on how to disconnect the various connectors
that are found in the electrics. Seems that every electrical connection has
a different way of disconnecting.

Mr. TruckDriver says:

i have even smaller ballast than that :)

Joshua Brunscher says:

Eric has actually done the right thing. The reason you install a relay with
the kit is because the stock headlight relay is rated for 20 amps normally
which is fine for halogen bulbs. But HID kits draw 20-25 amps on start up,
then as they warm up, current draw drops to about 2-3 amps. This is why HID
kits come with a larger 30 amp relay. Some stock vehicle relays will work,
but will probably fail over time due to the large current

hmr the best says:

Eric i sent you an email with a diagram to cut the fog lights with high
beam lights, hope it helps

Rachel Lowe says:

where the carpett for the elemert

Nathan Johnston says:

Great video. I love electrical. I’ve done Non projector HIDs before ans
they are great. They were tested with other friends driving toward my
vehicle in different situations. As Eric said if they are aimed correctly
there is no problem 

bruce obien says:

I like this video like to see more an cant what to see u work on the ford
Fairmont 

burrbit says:

awesome, I love the videos featuring your element (I own an E myself). I
have a suggestion on maybe a video for us not so knowledgeable people. Can
you maybe create a video showing us beginners, where the proper place to
use a jack and jack stands on our vehicles? <3 ETCG1

Aaron Johnson says:

Did you have the key on when you put your POWERPROBEIII on the AUX cable?

Ricouk74 says:

sad that you cant buy the Honda Element in the uk its a nice bit of kit

Steven Cliff says:

Eric, as the HID kit has its own relay you don’t need the relay inside the
car, and you can also wire straight into the headlight switch as it’s on
the control side of the HID relay (i.e. low current).

Throw away the fog light kit’s wiring harness and do the following:
1) Find the wire that connects to the headlight switch.
2) Splice into this wire and run an additional wire to the fog light switch
that came in the kit.
3) Run a wire from the other side of this switch through to the front of
the car and connect it to the control side of the HID relay.
4) Connect the other side of the HID’s control relay to ground.
5) Install everything on the load side of the HID relay as instructed.

That way your HID relay will be controlled by the headlight switch in the
car, as long as the fog light switch is also on.

ninetalekiller says:

What is the purpose of having a second relay harness for the HID kit??
Why didn’t you do a HID conversion kit where you just plug the ballast into
the factory wiring harness??

WTCHME says:

If you aim they they “kinda” work.. still more glare than halogens but
CORRECT INSTALLATION is not so bad.

You need to aim your headlights downwards a lot when you install HIDs.

Anyway, I had HIDs for 2 or 3 months, they were reliable the whole time.
Sold the car to a kid who tends to fuck with electronics a lot, think
central locking kit hanging out onto drivers footwell, amplifier in
passenger footwell with case open.. typical idiot.. He said the “ballasts
went bad” both at the same time apparently.

To me, they’re reliable.

Christian Harris says:

Couldn’t you have bought fog lights w/ hid’s already 

difflocktwo says:

Isn’t is also illegal to have HID lights which are not self/auto leveling? 

AJ Harran says:

+EricTheCarGuy The relay kit can just be discarded since you have one
implemented. Those wires you said can be not used can be used to directly
connect to the stock wire connector going into the bulb.
The opposite connector than the one going to the HID bulb is a 12 volt
connector. I have had bad issues running a relay kit since the relay can be
a bit sketchy. You can just run direct 12 volt into the ballast and be done
with it.

francisco morga says:

Hey etcg1 what do u think about running lights or under body lights

modermonkula says:

Ready for part 2

jarin wilson says:

k-tool international has a lot of those plastic rivet type fasteners and
what not if you need them. You can buy entire kits from tooltopia. I carry
some in my tool box just in case I break one or one grows legs and decides
to walk off. Without wiring diagrams, these types of jobs can really
cripple you so pursue with caution if dealing with anything electrical
related. Awesome video.

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